Loves2Shoot

Why not?

Good advice. Low 2's out of a production rig isn't superhuman. I think you could break 2 seconds with an open gun (I've been working on my surrender draw, so I'll let you know in a couple months ) This one is all about keeping the gun moving and making your trigger finger keep up with it, and we know you can pull the trigger fast enough,

29 days, I'm linear

How much do you want to pay and how long do you want to wait? Check out the dealer forum. here You question is pretty vague because there are so many good smiths out there. oops, Merlin beat me to the post.

Hmm, I've never (8+ years) emptied mine in any other way then putting them in cartridges. Just shoot more, it disapears quickly enough.

Yep. They are very serious about NOT selling parts.

I've only seen one and it takes focus away from the top edge off the sight.

I was an open shooter for years, then I went back to limited to learn to shoot. A very good open shooter started coming back to matches so I dusted off the open gun. The first match I had bouncing ball syndrome the whole match, the second match I had it for the first stage, the rest of the match I looked at the targets and where I wanted to hit and I had a decent match. Where I put my focus seems to matter to me. I do think at this point I'de be faster with my limited gun, if I could get it back from the smith I feel your pain

Not much like a Glock at all. You can put a 1911 like trigger on them. Rich at Canyon Creek and myself can deliver a 2-3 lb trigger that are really nice that have full striking power. No worries about light hits.

The stage designer just needs to add the no propping clause on any "gun is lying..." stage to avoid conflict and centered on the X if that's what they mean. There just too many people trying to get a perceived advantage.

I don't think so. Most people I've seen that have problem with the draw you descibed don't use the thumb to lock the gun in their hand. Fingers contact gun, web of hand over, thumb locking the beavertail/frame. Hand meet thumb goes down and safety comes off. I don't see how you could drop a gun if you do it correctly.

Shoot A zone only targets at 15 yards with a FO and a standard .090 black front sight, 3 targets 3 meters apart. For me this made the decision easy. If you shoot a LOT is low light conditions the FO might just be perfect for you, but most of my shooting is in bright light. Many have them for the wrong reasons IMO. This is a huge reason people are sloppy with their shots IMO. If all the targets were 7 yards are closer and mostly wide open, FO all the way. Our matches emphasize accuracy and a FO is just too slow on the harder shots. You can force yourself to see the top around the black, but it just takes to much time. I've tried probably 6 or more styles, and even made a few of my own, but the plain old black beat it in all the timed drills. I can make a list of top shooters (our host included) who prefer the black also but who shoots which sight isn't as important as knowing where the shot went. Without seeing the outline of the FS I can't call the shot. A bright FO it takes my attention away from where it should be and slows me down. I guess I'm a believer in black because I made GM in Limited after ditching the FO. I do think the FO held me back, but you experience may vary, so letting the targets and timer do the talking is a good idea.

ex-computer geek, custom A/V designer/installer

How about a new provisional division, "stock production?" Sort of like the SS for L10. ps. I think Lawman is spot on.

Because they have a heavier first pull, and since the measure the first pull (as posted above) you could set it to 5 lbs, and have 2 lb SA pulls, this would be seen by many to be an advantage, so they would buy the Sigs and Berrettas. My stock Sig 226 will compete with any Glock or XD, without mods I have an older one that has a sweet SA break for a bone stock German made gun. If the rule changed I would shoot my Sig in Production over the XD, but that's just my preference.

Check here

It shouldn't and almost everyone who's seen what the XD's trigger should be like has "taken care" of the factory design. I've done well over 20 triggers now, and I'm a little nobody, so people really want the trigger once they try it. I could use the cash taking them back to sucky stock triggers, but that would be lame. Changing the rules would be a boon the the Sig and Berretta folk and piss off the Glock/XD/CZ crowd (the majority of production shooters) so I don't see it being a real issue in the US. It not the rules, it's the nature of people that's the problem, althought the rules as they stand are far from ideal. There are always people who will push the rules as far as they go instead of focusing that energy on improving their shooting. They just sort of ruin it for the "new guys" who want to get into the sport and feel "competitive" for $500-$700, which was why the class was created in the first place wasn't it. Sort of to avoid the "arms race" right?

I've shot a couple classifiers and I'd be hard pressed to say that many of them were within 2" tollerences. If you toss it, give your competitors back their $, that is only fair. If you charged for a service (USPSA classifer) and you didn't deliver the service and keep the cash, your stealing from your customer. It is what you would expect from any business/service, and yes your local club is a business, with paying customers and all. That's just the way I see it. ps. If it can move, paint it or stake it.

Do you measure the first pull or the second shot?

I like the saying, they are like training wheels, they are great at first, but they will hold you back once you know what to do.

I don't believe steel matches fall under USPSA rules since they are all steel targets and that is illegal in USPSA. Some times local rules make sense, sometimes not. We just do Open and Irons for our local matches. Sorry Rika, you can still be competitve in your spirit.

I would hate for anyone to have a goal as "competitive in the class of B." It's not that big of a goal. If you are competitive in B class you should be in A class. I can't speak for Perry, but I think he'll go much higher than B if he keeps working on it and can get his scores to count.

"unload and show clear" = drop the magazine and show the RO (range officer) that the cahmber is clear. (hint-take your time) "hammer down" = pull the trigger to drop the hammer on the empty chamber. "holster" = put the gun in theh holster and your done. The time offically ends on your last shot.

Skywalker, I think you are dead on. Many don't care abou the accuracy loss from a FO, but be prepared for the harder shots and you have an advantage. You can gain more time there than on the closer shots where the FO helps.

I agree with what Jake said, with the caveat of stay at distances where you can get your hits. I think you want to start out with the targets fairly close together and say 3 meters away and progress out/apart as you improve. 1. Start shooting the splits and seeing them while moving across the targets. 2. When you can see all the shots, start picking a spot on each target and shoot the spot at the SAME splits. 3. Start varying target distances and heights. Using the upper A zone can simulate distance and save targets. DON'T double tap targets this will slow your transitions down. Once your eyes start driving the gun, you will find your splits are only limited by your vision and dexterity.