Loves2Shoot

I got A S12. I think it has potential, but would need a lot of work to make it shoot nearly as nice as my Benelli. The mags were much harder to change than I anticipated and you have to grind the bolt to make it reloadable with 8 round mags. I think it would be a valid patform if bigger mags were available that were easier to reload and it shot better. I like the feel of my Benelli so much better, and I really wanted to like the S12. For now, I've decided to learn how to re-load a tuber rather than dump $ into the Saiga. If I had lots of money and time I would probably work with it.

Get the replacement for the light RM. The guys at STI have told me they shoot the light RM in 40's.

Ok, someone give him an esspresso, frickin quick.

A bit faster, but because I did less, and I made the shots. I wanted to say something about the SS guy beating the open guys by a couple seconds on a stage where I only had 1 extra round in each set of mags, and a Texas star staring at me. But that is another post about keeping the brain together. I'm still learning from that run.

It isn't, in any division.

Jake, I think I understood you point, I and I agree wholeheartedly with your response. The reason for the post is I hear a lot of people with unrealistic expectations and an over emphasis on draw speed. A draw like Jake's takes lots of good practice and certain traits/abilities you are either born with or not. Flex pretty much hit the nail on the head for what I was trying to say with the post. I had another post about footwork that I should have proabably combined with this one. The guy in that vid can shoot well, draw fast, and move fast, he just has some issues with "wanting to be fast." Nice posts all.

I'll take all the points I can, but sometimes backing of just a bit can have big benefits, especially when the risks out weight the rewards. In a four shot (or short VC stage) stage I'll back off .2 seconds for a perfect 1st shot. In this particular stage .2 seconds longer on the draw is about 2 points out of 20 from a crankin' first shot. If you blow the draw, and make a extra shot up (real fast,) your lose 4-8 points minum. If you mike it, you're screwed. You should always work to improve your skills, there are just times in the big picture where backing off a tiny bit is a good thing to do IMO.

It doesn't seem silly to me at all. The more I shoot the more I realize the goals you stated are some of the best around.

The ding can be distracting, because when you shoot paper it won't give you that feedback.

Crusher, nice observation. What looks like up is actually back. What looks like I'm relaxing them is actually just bringing them back and then forward as the gun levels. I've found that if I get my shoulders back a bit when I grab the gun, it helps me bring the gun up higher, closer to my body, and then it is easier to drive it directly to the target. It is one of those things that is body type specific and not for everyone. In a match, a have a hard time snatching the gun out fast on small targets, one of those things I need to do better. I'm just giving away time there. My goal on this stage was to see the serrations on the front sight on every shot, and a M open shooter had already shot it clean in 2.65, so I didn't want to lose too many points. It is amazing though how the cold affects the way the body works.

Can it be done, yes (depending on the RO), will it help you, no. This has been covered a ton, so searching the forum will net you a lot of input. You can bend your knees.

For those who haven't seen much of the star. One of the more interesting ways to knock the plates off with 5 shots. Texas Star Proof, that YOUR WAY can be the best way. This was after he had a killer death jam too (long bullets)

In doing some surfing last night I came across a comment by Eric G from his website about the draw. "I shot first shot in about 1 second, but I am not the fastest on the first shot, and in any case a stage is not just one shot" On courses of fire when you have to have a perfect 1st shot some times a smooth draw will give you a better time than ripping a lightning fast, beat the par time, dry fire draw. 30 degree weather definetely slows things down a bit too, but the smooth draw set up the rest of the shots. With a 4 shot string you can't waste any shots. Fourplates

At the match today I saw a lot of people making poor choices of how to "get though" a course of fire. These non-shooting skills can really make a big difference in how long it takes you to get through a field course. The first part of the clip is an experienced shooter shooting it like most of the shooters in the squad did. The last target engaged could also be engaged through a small port at 13 yard versus 8 yards or so as seen in the second part of the clip. Watch the footwork. Footwork

On the bottom picture you are squeeing down with your thumb, that can weaken the grip and add tension. It looks like you need some help getting the right grip, it it is close, but doesn't look optimum. The top grip is inconsistant and will make shooting more difficult as you are not applying pressure to the pistol in a way that will effectively manage recoil and have the gun return as fast or consistant.

I agree 100%

That statement opens a can of worms I'm not touching, especially when the intent of the stage is crystal clear.

There are some horrible hoslters out there (ie Fobus) Ghost, Universal Academy, CR, Gubas, Safariland, Blade Tech, and Uncle Mikes (the one with the paddle) all will be fast enough and work well and you can spend $20-$250 with the same results with proper technique. I've never had problems with Kytex holsters binding, but my draw stroke is pretty consistant. I have more than a few holsters, and John is dead on, it just needs to work for you.

Stacking, my take only, just say no. It is unsportsman like conduct, but that's just my opinion.

They are fine.

Thanks!

Is this something that you have to have done or are there tricks to doing it yourself?

Your doing something right cutting .5 from the draw, but don't give credit to the gear, you're the one doing it. If a Ghost (or any holster) could cut .5 off the draw I'd have one. Imagine a .25 point blank draw, sweet. Technique is way more important that the gear IMO. Spending $150-200 bucks with a good instructor will help your draw way more than a new holster.

I hope it pass soon man, be well.

I had the exact oppostie experience. 4 years of use with my Safariland basketweave belt and it was done, way done, like wet spaghetti. Only have 4 years on my CR (won it, bought a second one) I really can't complain about it one bit. I use most everyday too. I don't think you're a heritic, just have a different experience.