MemphisMechanic

No one makes a fiber optic rear because no one wants one. Why do you want your eye drawn to the rear sight? If you haven't shot black rear, fiber front... Try it. You won't go back. The rear sight is there to provide a frame with which to align the shiny fiber on the front sight quickly and subconsciously.

I"m running an Apex sear, and the ramp angle is identical. I ground the weld and polished it to make an extended portion which matched the slope of tab that lifts the firing pin block. My gun already had a properly timed Apex sear, trigger bar loop, and firing pin plunger. I was careful not to mess with that. It's also the reason I don't understand why lots of guys want to run a FSS and try to reduce pre-travel. I never notice pretravel during a match - just slide the trigger back until you hit the sear and then begin the trigger press - and it keeps the striker/firing pin block 100% functional and Production legal.

I'll be building my Stock 3 in about 2 more months when it's on it's way. I stumbled across the thread on his grips for the CZ during my google-fu for version 1 of the Tanfo bible, and liked what I saw. Read the entire thing. I'm in for a set.

I'm not a fan of cleats because of the wet wood (pressure plates, props like bridges, fault lines...) factor. But they're great if you're sprinting from box to box at a local. I have a set of Under Armour's I picked up on sale for $49 Most of the time I run a now-discontinued Adidas Tail KA shoe that I absolutely love, and sold brand new for around $50. You can still snag them on eBay. Solid traction on wood and very good in muddy terrain too.

If you pull the slide off and push the striker block / firing pin safety plunger / etc in, it should let you shift the striker forward/backward past the plunger without any friction. Does it? It's likely you assembled the striker assembly incorrectly if you just installed a fresh spring. Were any other changes made?

The Limited Pro is the only IDPA legal Tanfo. The stock III weighs too much, and the bull barrel on the stock II won't even let it play in ESP. The Tanfos fit bigger hands better... but if you don't want to build your own gun (fit your own safety, sear, etc) or send it off to a 'smith and you require a Shadow-esque trigger? The Tanfo may not be right for you. I'd reconsider the P series gun, however. The weight of the steel frames combined with the sexy SA trigger you get for all but one shot? Those are the reason everyone is jumping on the DA/SA / CZ / Tanfo bandwagon. By choosing a plastic framed gun you're losing one of the biggest reasons people shoot CZs in matches in the first place.

Check extractor tension and for any burrs on the breechface, like around the firing pin hole. Make sure rounds will slide smoothly up the breechface and under the extractor with tension similar to your other handguns.

Thanks! I'll need to add this to the Tanfo bible with the next update. Good stuff!

It was a little bit lighter, too. When I bought mine, the PRO charged you extra for trigger parts that needed an APEX replacement, sights that needed a Dawson replacement, and a heavier slide (which is obviously a bad thing). There's a reason they discontinued the L's. Competition shooters who did their research were all skipping over their flagship PRO model and buying it's stripped down brother.

When it came time to choose, I picked the Stock III over the Shadow because of ergonomics. Pick whichever one fits your hand better. That is, if you can find a Unicorn to hold. CZs, as atlas mentioned, are easier to find. As are their parts.

I have an original ancient 9L, as mentioned above. I wasn't aware there was a new model. I know S&W discontinued the 9L several years back, and I wasn't aware they had resumed making non-PRO longslide models.

The 9L slide has a different, thicker snout on the slide than the 9PRO. Since 9L's are fairly rare compared to the PRO model, lots of companies lack a 9L holster. You have to warm the muzzle end of a kydex holster up with a heat gun and then drop the gun into it and expand it just slightly to fit into a 9PRO holster. It will still work perfectly with a 9PRO afterward, too.

First post has been updated, with help from our illustrious forum owner, BEnos. Thanks, Brian!

Oh good. These might very well be available for purchase and fully tested once I get my Stock III delivered in a couple of months! Great to hear.

I'd estimate roughly 1/32" to 1/16" or so. I can take a caliper to both of the modified guns, but I no longer have an unmodified trigger bar to compare it to. Of course, the exact amount that's needed will vary depending upon the particular sear and trigger bar in your gun. This type of thing needs to be fitted, it wouldn't be a drop-in proposition. But doing so involved five minutes of my time with a file. I didn't even need to disassemble the gun to do so - simply strip the slide off, and a small file makes short work of the tab sticking up out of the frame. Slowly file until you can smoothly drop the striker just as the trigger runs into the stop.

Then your gun is just now finishing its "breaking in" phase.I ran 3,800 rounds through mine in a single weekend, last month. She's probably around 40-50k now. It's one of the oldest 9L's out there - definitely one of the first few thousand M&Ps made. Recoil springs are all I've ever actually needed to replace. I have a pair of spare strikers, and one of those is a complete assembly. Spare trigger bar assembly. Spare slide release lever. Since they come to matches with me the gun just keeps running and running. You only break when you don't have spares, it seems. I'm on 13lb recoil spring number four, I believe.

If anyone has a spare trigger bar and lacks access to a welder, I'd be happy to do it for you cheap if you cover round-trip shipping. PM me if you want to take me up on that offer.

Want2race and Mully383 gave me the idea. I certainly can't take credit for it. I've done this to two guns now, and it feels like they lost a pound or so of pull weight - the further back the trigger goes the more compressed the springs get, plus the perceived weight of the trigger slamming into the frame after the break has disappeared. First shot is the unmodified trigger bar. Second shows where the trigger bar was given a small weld, which was then filed down to the same thickness as the trigger bar. From there it was reinstalled and fit to the gun... which simply means filing the "beak" down until it runs into the sear housing behind it just as the shot breaks. I then give it an extra pass of the file. Zero overtravel is bad for reliability if things get loose or hot, so I like to leave a tiny bit of slop to ensure it runs 100%. Final photo shows where the trigger stops after the striker falls. It doesn't look like much, but it sure feels like it.

Double post. Sorry!

Firefox on windows 8 works perfectly. For what it's worth. Click the quote button and up comes a text dialog with their quoted text above an empty field for you to type in. It also works correctly on Safari in iPhone.

Smear a small bit of chap stick on the weak eye's lens or put a piece of scotch tape on it. That's what I do. Still see well enough not to run into things, but both eyes open is amazingly easy.

I had this lightbulb moment after making it to Master in IDPA and running with the A-class guys in USPSA... then hitting a wall.Ben Stoeger gave me the lightbulb moment. I'd been working on a loose grip with the strong hand and tight grip with the weak hand, or thought I had, for some time. During his class Ben had me remove my weak hand and put his in it's place. "THIS is how tightly my weak hand holds the gun." When he told us to crush grip the gun "as tight as you possibly can" with our weak hand while shooting, he meant it. That man was gripping my strong hand like he was trying to choke it out. (Then leave your strong hand loose, to work the trigger smoothly, since the recoil control just got moved to the other wrist.)

I'm assuming from your syntax and also from the fact that major is 165 for you... that you're located outside of the USA and will be shooting IPSC, correct?That affects which parts people recommend for trigger work - at least in Production. I'm not certain it matters in Open if you use factory internals or not - I do not think so.

That's when you're supposed to fix everything. Guns. Cars. Your boat...I thought that was obvious.