MemphisMechanic

Ahh! This makes sense now. Yes, loading for striker guns and single action hammer guns is an entirely different ballgame from where you and I came from. With Glocks and M&Ps and the like? Flush primers are 100% good to go at Nationals. CZ, Tanfos, and other double-action guns don't hit the primer nearly as hard in DA as they do in SA. The hammer only travels about 80% as far to the rear as it does for a single action shot. Flush isn't good enough anymore. Not if your goal is the best possible trigger. Flyweight DA pull weights come mostly from the lightest possible hammer spring... and thus the weakest strike on the primer that you can get away with. @johnbu in the Tanfo group here had gotten the double action pull down around 4 pounds even. That required a Federal primer to be seated so deeply that it's visibly dimpled by the seating punch in your press: http://www.tkcustom.com/content/AJ.asp (That gun had a one pound SA trigger too. Scary light!) You can also run a 16ish pound EGD Medium spring like I do, and feed the gun CCI's at "flush or better" depths. Trigger weights are 7lbs even, and 3.1lbs with all of the optimum triggerwidgets installed. If I were to switch from the Dillon 650 to a 1050 where I could swage my primer pockets and set primer depths to .006" below flush consistently, I could run a PD 14 pound spring and still have a perfectly reliable gun on CCI primers. Trigger weights for my gun were 5.5lbs and 2.75lbs with that setup.

Sounds like we are in perfect agreement, then. To paraphrase my first post, you either need to seat softer primers with obsessive attention and enjoy chasing a flyweight trigger... ...Or run an additional pound or two of pull weight, and enjoy the ability to feed your gun any primer that's flush and have it run 100%. I chose path #2, and I'm very happy just practicing with it set up the way it is. But some guys enjoy the tuning process to whittle their DA down to 4.5-5 pounds and they find satisfaction in crafting precision ammo that works with that weapon. Men have been inclined toward tinkering with things like musclecar engines and guns since the dawn of time, and they're simply carrying on the tradition of finding satisfaction in that. We do, however, need to have a solid understanding of which path we are on. And to make sure that the gun's springs and our ammo are matched to the mission we have for it.

Take the setscrew out of your trigger, or at least back it out one turn. For some reason, your gun doesn't have enough overtravel: The sear is hitting the half-cock notch on the hammer's trip forward. Whatever method your gun uses to adjust the overtravel, you need a few thousandths more of it. I'm not a CZ guy - I shoot a Tanfoglio. Tanfos have a setscrew in the center of the trigger which adjusts the overtravel, and this will happen if you set it too aggressively. You can see the screw coming out the back of the trigger in this photo of my Stock 3:

I've switched all our locals over from blue loctite to red. Everyone who used blue eventually had the front post come loose. Red holds. Heat and vibration are the two ways you break down loctite. The muzzle end of a slide sees plenty of both. Degrease the threads and front of slide with brake cleaner before install. Barely torque the screw. Use red. Don't shoot it for 24 hours after installation. No more problems.

@CZinSC and @LegionShooter what experiences have led you to state that "anything flush should go off" in a Tanfoglio with harder primers (CCI, S&B, Wolf) and a 13 or 14 pound spring? Because when that combination resulted in 25% light strikes for me, posting here led to a rapid eduction that flush is no where near fully seated, and "welcome to the world of DA guns with light hammer springs." If you want a gun to light CCI primers with a 12, 13 or even 14 pound PD spring with bolo & Titan, the primers need to be .006"-.008" below flush. Absolutely sunk down into the primer pocket. Flush is still a few thousandths high - but the striker-fired or single-action guns we were shooting had never cared before. With a Tanfoglio you either need to seat your primers deep every single time, or give up on hammer springs that are lighter, and run something that hits harder.

Not certain, but highly likely: Your first strike is pressing the primer fully into the pocket of the case, and then strike #2 is setting it off like it's supposed to. Your options are to work out some solution to meticulously seat your primers deeper: switching presses or priming by hand, etc. Or to do like I do, and run a crapload of hammer spring. The Wolff 14 pound wasn't quite enough for me: I found 100% reliability with "flush is good" CCI primers when I swapped to an EGD Medium hammer spring. It'll bump your trigger weight up in double action, but it's quite shootable. And the gun will eat anything a Glock will eat.

Mine is over 1k without a cleaning. Side note: Prima V leaves your gun INSANELY clean, so that's helpful. But even with nasty powders like Ramshot Comp, all of my guns have been cleaned every 1500-3000 so. They do get re-oiled before each match, but not cleaned.

Huh. That's an interesting idea...

Threadlocker can break down some plastics. It shouldn't be used when a screw is threaded directly into plastic. I only use it on the metal-to-metal fasteners, and far less of it than most use.

The APEX kits are fully SSP complaint. Their replacement triggers are not. But I fully understand not wanting to do the work yourself. I'll butt out now.

You don't say what parts were installed during your attempts to fix... You have reverted both guns completely back to factory? If not, don't put new aftermarket parts in to replace the old ones. Put factory ones in entirely: go back to a totally stock gun and introduce you're triggerwidgets one at a time. 1911s and many other guns need tuned to work flawlessly. Glocks are the other way around. They work flawlessly until someone tunes them.

@IHAVEGAS we don't get cold down here. (I'm from Chicago, so I smirk when the southern guys gripe about 33 degrees being cold, too.) But I've "fallen out of a shooting" area on the final target bit too effectively, and landed on my mag pouches when it was around 75 outside. None of the Ghosts noticed. I subscribed to the "slowly tighten them until you can't quite rotate them anymore, and stop right there" method of torquing the center bolt - with red loctite to ensure they hold that setting.

This is inaccurate. The Stock 2 can, by the skin of it's teeth, be CO legal. It requires some finagling but it's light enough. Barely. I have photos on my phone of a friend who's Stock 2 makes weight by 0.2oz with optic. The Stock 3, with about 3/4" more barrel length and a full length dustcover & rail, is heavier than the Stock 2. Not lighter. That's my primary production gun. There's no way you're getting one of these into C.O.

If you like palm swell, you won't like Henning's. Short of the EGD they are your flattest and thinnest option. Otherwise they were great though!

1.065 seems EXTREMELY short for a factory Glock barrel. They normally eat ammo longer than anything else out there.

What Southpaw said. Load dummies really long (resize and crimp, just skip primer and powder) then shorten them up until they spin freely in the chamber. When they drop in and won't spin, you're touching the rifling and loaded too long. Figure out how long your barrel will let you load (this will be different for every bullet weight and every brand) and then subtract .010" Thats as long as you can load your ammo, and probably around the length you should be using. If your case gauge doesn't play nice with that? Sell it and buy one that does. Eventually you'll end up with a 100rd shockbottle case gauge. Everything else is vastly inferior for making sure ammo is USPSA-grade accurate and precise.

If you aren't planning to strip the gun down, then yes. Drive the roll pin out of the trigger with a properly sized *roll pin* punch. Leave the punch through the frame so that the trigger and trigger spring stay aligned. (If you pull the punch out, the spring flies into the next county) ...And simply use a plastic mallet to gently tap the the CGW Canik into the gun - pushing the punch back out and leaving your new pin in the frame.

Correct. Apex's full kit and a lot of time polishing. I also welded an internal overtravel stop into place on the trigger bar, which is a total nonfactor in matches and practice. I can only feel the reduced travel in dryfire, and wouldn't go through the trouble again.

You won't feel much difference. My gun dropped from high 11s to mid 10s - you will not feel that change with your index finger. You're probably going to end up around 6.75 to 8 pounds in DA with the gun finished. The remaining pieces that drop your trigger that final pound or two: 1 of sear, lighter sear spring? You don't really NEED those. But you have to expect to have a somewhat heavier trigger due to their lack. The benefit of the polishing work is a glass smooth trigger pull without grit or hitches in it. A smoooooooth 7 pound DA trigger is very shootable. My gun has one.

Just gotta make sure your sear clears the half-cock notch in the hammer by a few thousandths. I have my gun's overtravel screw in - because it took nearly 1/16" out of the trigger pull. But I prefer to find the "limit of function" then back off a full 3/4 turn to ensure there is plenty of clearance.

Mine was all done at home, and features a 2.75lb trigger that is just a few mm's longer (from break until resetting) than my Tanfoglio's gorgeous single action. It runs CCI primers flawlessly. There is no need for a 'smith at all in this platform, IMO.

This is accurate. Add Duracoat about even with bluing (and krylon) and you're on the money. However, everything Cerakote and above is pretty tough. Everything above "generic DLC" is nearly indestructible without deliberate, malicious intent.

I cerakote my own hardware (small spot media-blasting gun a good compressor and an airbrush) and it holds up fantastically well for $40 per color per gun. For a backup and not a super high end one? That's all I'd put th money into doing

Coated bullets are becoming quite popular with open guys, too. These days, we all know more than one shooter that's abandoned Ranier or Berry's played bullets for coated ones... but JHP and FMJ projectiles certainly still seem to dominate the market.

Precisely what I'd do. Shoot 200 of one, clean the gun, then 200 of the other. Checking regularly, you should isolate which one causes your issue and verify that the other one is trouble free. I do not expect you to see this issue with both brands. Don't worry about hunting other powders yet. Once you know if ACME or Blues are the source of your problems, load them with a safe midrange load from your manuals with 231. It's a well-established powder for trouble free use in coated 9mm loads. If that fixes your issue with one of your bullets? You can decide if you want to hunt down another faster-burning powder to get your loads softer than they were with titegroup... or just sell the problematic bullets and stick with TG. (I'm by no means a fan of Titegroup. WST, N320, and Nobel's Prima V are all great powders under coated bullets that shoot softer than TG and do everything else better to boot. But TG is popular, and plenty of shooters do very well with it.)