MemphisMechanic

Is the case bulged at that point? Sometimes when you press a bullet down into it, a well used case's walls will swell outwards just enough to cause feeding problems.

Agreed. Just buy a Lim Pro, which is eventually my plan...

Mill the rail off. Chop the dustcover down. Scratch Limited Pro into the side so it'll pass a redneck's inspection down in Arkansas. Rattle-can it silver. Easy.

<double tap>

So we need to verify a Stock III can be made to weigh 43 oz - 2 pounds and 11 ounces. And that it fits into an IDPA box. Excellent.

I know I've always released triggers well past reset, but well short of where they fully return forward. I never really come off the trigger. Because the bolo causes the trigger to reset when it stops, all of my previous self-programming has made it very difficult not to trigger freeze when splits drop below around .25, and a .15 is desired if you can make your finger go that fast. I trigger freeze a lot, failing to fully reset the trigger. That's the best theory I've come up with as to why that is. My next few live fire sessions are going to be dedicated to fast shooting on close targets.

(Talking about if you actually rack the gun in dryfire to get a SA reset and shot, which isn't exactly ideal use of your time.)

Interesting. My problem is the opposite: going fast in dry or live fire, I short-stroke and trigger freeze.

I'll be watching this. In my opinion SA speed shooting is something that has to be learned by throwing lead downrange in live fire.

I prefer the silicon carbide grips. But even though I ground a thumb notch in them very similar to the Henning's, I couldn't reach the magazine release without flipping the gun. I've never had to do that, so it really hurt my reloads. I'd sell them to someone who has really big hands in a heartbeat - someone with 1/8" more thumb would love them! (I wear a size L nitrile glove at work, for reference) Do the silicon carbide. But here's what I'd do if your hands aren't huge: A dremel with a sanding drum carves the factory grips up FAST. It won't take long, just a couple minutes per side: Similar to the scales, make a series of grooves across and down the grips that are all 1/8" deep. Just to serve as a depth guide. Now go square by square and sand the entire grip panel down to match that 1/8" because the silicon carbide and epoxy will add much more thickness than you expect. Be really aggressive in flattening down the upper portion, similar to the scales, but leaving a palm swell. Then do your SC treatment.

My buddies (who shoot SP-01 Shadows not flyweight plastic) pick up my gun and go "holy crap this is heavy!"... So far the nose-heavy balance has either been a love it or hate it kind of thing.

Someone really needs to make a fixed rear sight for Tanfoglio. I'd buy one just for the increased durability, and weight savings would probably sell a lot of them to LP owners.

I'll weigh my pig however you need, as soon as I find a scale it isn't too heavy for.

As promised. They aren't pretty, but the added grip in just the right places is a big change. I spent a lot of time fingering the gun to figure out exactly where it needed more traction. This won't win any beauty contests, but I couldn't care less. They'll get media blasted and cerakoted flat black when I do the slide & frame in stainless, anyway.

Agreed. It was a few thousands proud of fully into the chamber (because it didn't fit!) and your strike drove it in and up, instead of punching the primer of a stationary case. Crappy brass. Marginally too-long load.

ALWAYS

She had an LP up for sale recently. I assume it was sold to fund a Stock 2. On the grips? I'm going the other way. Since the hennings are nearly as thin as the EGD grips and lack a lefty mag release cutout, I'm selling mine and switching to a pair of scale 2.0s that @B_RAD sent me. I love the width down low (.200" wider than Hennings) and their extreme thinness up top in order to reach the mag catch. Contrary to your preferences, I'm going to have to checker them in order to get enough traction. Here and here, I'm going to try my hand at checkering them myself. The "spikes" in the middle are great, but the front and rear edges of the grips need more bite.

Not all of us load on a press that gives you that control. With a shim cut from a piece of a 1/4" fender washer under the primer punch, a Dillon 650 doesn't seat primers any deeper than it did from the factory. Dillon and Hornady subscribed to the "flush is good" design criteria, and that's all you get. Until I buy a 1050, which will be a couple of years, I'm just running more hammer spring than most people seem to want to.

I thought slow motion was also viturally mandatory. C'mon @IronArcher - step it up!

The "double tap" is a myth. When you listen to a pro shooter fire two rounds bangbang... you realize that you are seeing them fire two SIGHTED shots, right? Dont break shot #2 until the front sight has returned to the notch. All of your rounds should be aimed. Grip harder. Much harder. Especially with the weak hand - that needs to crush the gun. Heavily. It'll preload your wrists and forearms to snap the gun back down like really tight springs, and won't let the gun flip as much in the first place. (The lighter you spring the gun, the harder you need to grip it in order for it to function reliably, anyway)

That's basically what I do. My match ammo goes into three 100rd storage boxes after leaving the hundo. Now they're all primer-up in ten neat little rows. Then I find the ten deepest primers and move them to the very back row in each box. I use those 30 rounds for classifiers and for round #1 on all the other stages.

Unfortunately the only way to truly set your gun up seems to be firing about 500 rounds in DA (that's a lot of decocking) with various combinations installed. Like yourself, I found pencil tests very inconclusive. I like the idea of a coat hanger projectile - that's brilliant. I ended up deciding shooting is more fun than 'tuning' and just threw an EGD Medium spring in there. It's at 7lbs DA but I haven't missed on the first round from the holster in the past two matches. My gun has run 100% through those stages while you lads are at home tinkering with a torn-down gun trying to shave a pound of trigger weight. I'll try the 14# Wolff spring on my next range trip, but on the first light strike I'll be back to the EGD Medium spring.. at least until PD comes out with a 15.5lb spring! I'm fine with my current pull weight, I just want to get rid of the stacking at the back of it. Hoping one of those two springs will do the trick! (Oh, and all I do is check for below-flush primers, then pick a round with a deeply-seated primer to load as the top round in my "load and make ready" mag.)

Read the last line of my post. Already on it.

I'm playing with all sorts of options on gun position while beginning to learn to load the new blaster. Here's "stupid low and as closer to the mag pouches as it's reasonable to get" just to try something new: I'm becoming a believer in the lower & closer reload like Alex Gutt, Storger, and WJM all seem to utilize for this platform. Loading high in front of my face / chin is remarkably inconsistent with the Tanfo. If I decide to stick with this, I'll do it closer to body centerline and work on reducing unnecessary movement of my shoulders and torso.