Joe D

It is perfectly legal in IDPA. Pardon my stupidity, but how in the heck is John Amidon or anyone else going to tell what your receiver started out as? They are identical in every aspect. Once again where has the common sense gone to in this world??? Someone please pass me the Kool-Aid. Let me make certain I understand this logic. Let's say I had a G22 and I put a G35 slide assembly on it. Are we saying this gun would not now be legal for Production? Can I put a G22 top end on a G35?

Dats how I do it also. OTOH I can't remember the last time we had a prone stage. We would never have one in a Sanctioned match. One simple reason - rain. No one wants to roll around in the mud. BTDT

I mostly use Bear Creek. They are a little less expensive than Precision. You will have to use a lighter recoil spring.

Not to start an argument here, but have either of you two ever used a standard Lee carbide sizer die?

First of all if you understand how a Glock barrel locks up you will realize there is no need for a "hard fit" match barrel. The stock Glock barrel returns to the same position every time when in battery. I am yet to see a "match" barrel that is any more accurate than my stock barrels. You will give up some reliability with a tight chambered match barrel - duh the hole is smaller!!!

Duane, put a little bevel at the point where the SS contacts the slide notch. Most Glocks, after being shot a good bit, will drop the slide "most" of the time. I have not touched the SS on my Glocks in years. Slide goes forward every time.

TG will work, but you will like Clays better. 2.8 - 3.0 gr will work just fine - depending on whose plated/jacketed bullet you use. I load to 1.135-1.140". 2.8 went 728 fps and 3.0 goes 745 fps out of a G35 with a Precision Delta jacketed bullet. I switched to moly coated bullets several years ago and have never looked back.

G-Man, first of all there is no such thing as luck. I have owned 2 Kimbers in .40/9mm and have a sack full of Glocks. I have never had chambering issues with any of them using regular Lee carbide dies. If you have to use a U die to get your rounds to chamber then you need to invest in a chamber reamer. There is absolutely no reason to have a chamber that tight. Both of my Kimbers would stack bullets on top of each other. I have used a 9mm and .40 LWD barrel with equally good results. Yes, I did have chambering issues with RCBS and Dillon sizing dies. Neither would size the .40 case enough. I replaced all of my sizing dies with Lee and those issues went away completely. I tried a U die in .40 for a while. I did not like the extra effort nor the hour glass look my rounds had. Sold it and went to the regular dies. Before a big match I would case gauge every round. I would get a 5-8% rejection rate with the Dillon and RCBS dies. I have not case gauged a round in over 2 years.

Actually with a little careful grinding of the slide stop you will never have to touch it to release the slide. I find either a 12# Wolf or 13# ISMI works. I do take 2-3 coils off the ISMI. The extended slide stop is the first thing removed from my Glocks. I am right handed. A 147 gr plated/jacketed bullet with 3.2 gr of Titegroup is a very good combo. 3.2 is a little iffy with a G17. No problems with a G34.

Save your money and your arm. There is absolutely no need for a Lee U/EGW die. I load tens of thousands of rounds each year with regular Lee carbide sizer dies. They more than adequately size 9mm, .40 and .45.

Please pardon my stupidity, but what does the "Standard Trigger" have to offer that a regular Glock trigger does not?

I don't see what it will do that my $12 Lee carbide sizing die will not. That would be a standard die, not a "U" die.

First of all the Recoil Master "system" is a waste of time and money. Yes, I have shot a gun with one. There is no advantage using one. Just another gimmick to relieve IPSC shooters of their money. There is nothing in the rule book that says you can't use one if you are so inclined.

A lot depends on the bullet profile. I shoot 160 gr Bear Creek bullets in my Glocks. No tumbling at all with TG or Solo 1000. Clays was terrible. I could not make it work with any OAL. OTOH I just got a couple of thousand 160 gr lead bullets yesterday. Looks like I am going to have to play with this bullet to stop the tumbling. I first loaded it long - 1.160" but got some tumbling and leading. I shortened it to 1.140" and the tumbling and most of the leading went away. I gave some a little Alox bath last night so we will see if that took care of the leading issue. It usually does. These bullets have a bevel base where the BC bullets have a flat base.

He is looking for a Minor load, not Major.

I use a 13# ISMI with 2-3 coils cut in my G35s and a 12# Wolf in my G34s.

I have heard that this works well. I bought a can but have not tried it yet. Use the higher temp version. There was a lengthly thread on Glock Talk about this product. One of the best and easiest to apply finishes is good old Parkerizing. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html

Try 3.0 and see what it chrono's.

Can't help with the Sig, but I load Glock 9mm to 1.140". Winchester white box is loaded to 1.170".

Most of my Glocks have not had the first round of factory ammo through them. I load my wife's Glock with a 160 gr moly bullet.

Tossed FCD and U die. No need for either. I just use a regular Lee carbide sizer and taper crimp die.

Here you go. http://users.dls.net/~rdouglas/MikeOrlen.pdf He cut back a 28" Remington barrel to 21" for me and threaded it for Rem Chokes. Fast turn and good work. $35 is hard to beat.

I always use the .195" cutter.

Way too hot for me. I just chrono'd a load yesterday. 2.4 gr of Clays with a 180 gr cast bullet. OAL 1.140" Pretty consistent 746 fps. It only takes 3.6 gr of Clays with a 180 gr moly bullet to make Major out of my G35. That's with a LWD barrel. I have to bump it to 3.8 gr with the Glock barrel. Another load I shot was 2.6 gr of Clays with a 180 gr moly SWC. It went 730 fps. These bullets were a good bit heavier than advertised. They weighed out at 188 - 190 gr. I have never had a load with a lower std dev. The high was 731, low was 729 fps.

I just took about .020" off the bottom of the die. I did it with a bench grinder. Die now works like it should without having to over cam the press. BTW I don't trim the brass.