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Showing results for tags 'hammer'.
Found 10 results
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I've been thinking about this for awhile in regards to the rule below. Manually decocked guns should be allowed to go to half cock for 3 reasons. 1. Consistency of hammer position between decocker and safety models (e.g. CZ SP01 Shadow vs CZ SP01 Tactical) 2. Manually decocking to a half cock notch is safer and easier for shooters to accomplish 3. Will give shooters with short fingers the ability to safely and effectively pull long DA triggers. It makes sense, let's make it happen. -
I fit an infinity trigger into my CK arms open pistol. With the slide off it works perfect. Nice loose trigger, no touch points. Hammer falls everytime and everything is great. The issue is when I put the slide back on. Once you rack the slide the hammer won't fall and you have manually release the sear. Is this a dimensional difference in the trigger bow from a CK arms to an infinity? Or is this a situation where I need to remove a little material from the tip of the disconnector to make sure it is as free as possible? Any suggestions would be great.
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I saw a youtube video today which point out the illegality of Titan hammer on Ltd Pro in IDPA SSP division, here is the rule I found from the 2017 IDPA rule book, IDPA Rule 8.2.1.2 section C. Magazine releases, slide stops, safety levers, de-cocking levers, hammers, and triggers, that are stock on one SSP legal firearm may be used on another SSP legal firearm from the same manufacturer provided they are drop in replacements. Parts in this list must come factory installed on standard production firearms. Special parts that are available installed only from a factory custom shop are not eligible in SSP. From what I understand, this rule kicks out both Delta and Titan hammer, possibly other extreme parts as well. What do you guys think?
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So, I know this has been discussed in other threads, but I am having trouble getting a consensus from everyone of which is the best option. I currently have the Henning 4th gen firing pin with the titan hammer with 1 piece sear and extended FPB (0.508" I think) in my Stock II (large frame). At a match last night I was having a bunch of light strikes, until I removed the FPB all together, then the gun ran 100%. The FP was also not reliably blocked by the FPB with the hammer cocked as it should. The light strikes would suggest to me that the FPB is still too short and that I may have to remove a bit of material from the curved surface on the inside of the cut out. (opposite of the tab that actually blocks the FP) Or I may just have to polish it better. My understanding is that the different profile without the flutes of the Henning Gen 3, as well as the extended EG Xtreme FP will both work, but which seems to work better for people? More reliable? Allowing the use of lighter springs and lower trigger pulls? I also love that the Henning firing pins are advertised as being made lighter and lighter, while the EG Xtreme, is advertised as being heavier than the OE part, lol. Anyone have any thoughts on that? -
Does anyone know if Benelli M4 hammers are interchangeable with the Nova/Supernova? Geissele makes a 922r replacement hammer and I am wondering if it works in the Benelli pump action shotguns. They look extremely similar except the M4 has an extra catch that it needs being a semi-auto. I plan on putting a shotgun together and new mag tube, follower, and a hammer would bring it into compliance from what I have checked. Yeah, i am by the book... Thanks, -G_B -
OK, here's the deal. I bought a new .40sw witness match last year. Took it apart, following instructions here, polished up plunger, trigger bar, firing pin and slightly chamfered the firing pin keeper to make racking smoother. All was done just to make it a more enjoyable range toy. Then a buddy invited me to a local steel challenge. I tried an xdm-40, but it's just nowhere near as easy / fun as the match. So, I used that and while it's easier to time me by phases of the moon, it has been a lot of fun. So, what's the issue? Well, I'm uncomfortable speed drawing from the holster in SA. Yeah, I know... Anyway, ebay provided a kit of parts from a 9mm witness P - trigger on the bar, sear assembly, misc pins/springs and a hammer w interrupter and long curved strut. After scratching my head over that, gunbroker had an auction for a kit of new parts bought from Henning to convert a hunter to DA. Not "needing" them I bid and got them fot the oppening bid of $0.01. Finally, to the point. I put the new trigger onto the ebay bar, keeping the original SA assembly intact. Then used the new std hammer and interruptr with the match short strut and factory spring. The new parts were polished prior to installation. Well, the SA trigger is still pretty good, but not as good as before. But the DA is ... not good. Heavy and gets heavier stacking at the end. Yuck. Oddly, inspecting the "P sear assembly to the match showed differences, so they were swapped - yielding a slight improvement. But still sucky. Holding the trigger back, the hammer can be cycled without binding, but that spring is stout. I ordered a hammer spring kit from Henning, along with his firing pin and sight set thinking that will make it all better. But, I keep reading about improvement from changing hammer and sear. So... what amount of improvement is gained from hammer and sear? Is the bulk gain from the hammer spring? Or changes in geometry in the sear and hammer? Is changing to lower power trigger return and sear springs worth the effort? Sorry for the rambling! John
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On some of the old S&W revolvers I've owned, the hammer mounted firing pin seemed to flop up and down a bit. Guns that did this were well worn model 10's and 15's. The guns worked fine. Was that normal? Would that have ever caused any problems? Worth fixing? I just wanted to know.
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Hey all, So I have a brand new TS 9mm on its way and I have been looking around CZ Custom for what parts to get. This will primarily be for range shooting and 3gunning, maybe limited minor if things get in a bind. Looking at the hammers it appears CZ Custom has wide (for TS and Shadow models) and standard (for everything else). Looking at the hammers it looks like the base is the same width and it is just the .... extension of it... is narrower, can anyone confirm this? I have an SVI I shoot for limited, and really like the light weight hammers that fall really quick. My question is would I be able to get one of the standard hammers and install it into my TS for a lighter weight hammer? Would the hooks be cut the same on both versions? I also noticed they have a low version now, that is intended for lower sights. I may change the sights later on, but I'll probably shoot the fixed ones for a while. Would that lower hammer also reduce the radius of the ark the hammer would follow, therefore quickening hammer fall? Ideally I just want to figure out if I would run into any problems trying to install a standard width low hammer into my otherwise stock TS, well I'll probably put a flat trigger into it too, but for the beginning that would be about it. -Eli
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I was wondering what sight/hammer combo you guys are running for your competition/target SP01s. I’m looking to replace my SP01 sights with the CGW drift (or CZC comp rear) sights but wasn’t sure which hammers would clear the slight overhang. I’m modding this SP01 to stay in production class so my choices are the KIT3 from CGW and the competition hammers from CZC – which I believe has a low and standard height option? Thanks guys, Chris
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I want to install a bobbed hammer on my SW 627. Can I lighten my trigger and not have problems?
