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tyler2you

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About tyler2you

  • Rank
    Calls Shots
  • Birthday 05/29/1965

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    Male
  • Location
    Alabama
  • Real Name
    Tyler Green

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  1. Slides, STI vs CK vs PT

    I had to work a lot on the keyways in the frame that the grip slides on to. They're difficult to file since the area is small and recessed. I could have removed the material from the pads on the grip, but chose to work on the less expensive part and also so that I could move the grip to a different frame if I decide to do that in the future. I also had to remove material from the top concave/convex parts of the grip that mate with the radiuses at the bottom of the frame to get it to seat fully. With both the PT and L-10 frames, the grip mated up with almost no fitting required.
  2. Slides, STI vs CK vs PT

    Really the only "issue" I had with the CK frame was the amount of fitting required to get it to work with the PT steel grip and some minor tool marks I had to clean up. Otherwise, it was dimensionally correct and well finished.
  3. open top end parts

    I recently built a gun using the Brazos Lightning Slide (Caspian version). I'm pretty sure it was already angle cut for the comp, but I don't remember for sure. I used a KKM threaded barrel, so I can't comment on the rest of your question. The slide was done very nicely and is working great. I posted a picture in the Open gun picture thread (page 56 about halfway down)
  4. Slides, STI vs CK vs PT

    Take a look at L-10 frames as well. They make nice stuff. I've built on both PT and CK frames and both were serviceable. Both had some minor minor issues that were easily worked. I wouldn't pay the premium for a PT frame over the CK if those were my choices.
  5. Slide Stop Wear

    Does your slide stop have an indent in the end where it contacts the detent in the plunger tube. If it doesn't you could add one or make it deeper. You might also replace the detent and spring if it's weak. I wouldn't suspect wear on the slide stop to be causing the issue.
  6. You can do that, but to what end? You would simply be investing more time mating up the parts for no performance gain.
  7. There should be enough material on the frame rails to get a good fit to the slide. As far as the barrel goes however, the primary fitting is done by removing material from the barrel's lower lugs and not by removing material from the frame. Like I said above, you probably won't have contact between the lower lugs and slide stop during lock-up and your slide isn't going to be even with the rear of the frame.
  8. Yep, if you want an easy mate-up, best buy a PT or L10 Frame. The CK Frame will require some handiwork with the file/dremel and a few hours of your time.
  9. Probably the biggest issue will be with barrel fit. The lower lugs on your barrel may or may not mate up well with the new frame. You can pretty much guarantee that the lower lugs won't be locking up on the slide stop pin. Best case is you will be "riding the link" which will work, but won't help in the accuracy department.
  10. 2011 Build Parts Check

    Short block is a frame, slide, barrel, and comp (for an open gun) all fit up and ready to complete. Slides do include a breech face specific to the caliber. Unless you're talking about a SV which may have an interchangeable breech face
  11. 2011 Build Parts Check

    Yep, a local guy I shoot with has used a PT slide. He says they're hard as a woodpecker's lips.
  12. 2011 Build Parts Check

    Based on what I've read here in the forums, Caspian slides are more durable and they're better about replacing cracked slides. My first open gun had a CK slide and it cracked around the extractor tunnel after around 10,000 rounds.
  13. 2011 Build Parts Check

    Based on what you're looking to do, I'd suggest contacting Glenn at Lonestar and having him build you a short block. I'd go with a Caspian slide instead of CK and the Lonestar comp. You might also consider one of the German X-Line triggers as well. The SV is great, but the X-Line gives you a bit more in terms of length adjustment.
  14. svi vs Atlas Titan

    I'll second what Maximis said regarding finding a local guy to build your gun. Even a builder that's a couple of hours away is better than having to ship a gun to fix a small problem or make a minor modification. You can easily be out $150-$200 in shipping depending on the gunsmith. Some of the custom builders will cover the return shipping, but there's not many that will cover both ways. You also have the risk of damage/loss when handing over your expensive custom gun to FedEx or UPS. If you're not capable of doing small jobs like adjusting an extractor, installing a thumb safety, adding a thumb rest, etc., you should think long and hard about using a custom builder that's half way across the country from you.
  15. Changes To The USPSA Classfication System

    Well, hopefully the HHF will come down for a few of the unachievable ones like Double Deal 2 (13-07). I haven't seen a GM shoot a GM score on that one yet. KC had what looked like a solid run on it last weekend and hit 88%.
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