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DK Trigger Custom vs Basic Kit


Alw041

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My experience is with the Vanek trigger, but when I used the factory striker I would get light strikes with the lightest spring and WSP primers. When I used his supplied Jager striker, it ran 100%. I was very happy with that striker from him. That being said, I wasn't seeing anywhere near the 2# pull he advertises with the GM Classic kit, even with the lightest spring. It was nice with a positive reset, but much closer to 3 than 2.

If I were to do it over again, I can't see any of the kits being something I couldn't get by working it over myself. Wolff springs and a Ghost connector got me about 85% of the trigger for like 15% of the cost. Even the most expensive of these various kits that I've felt still have a somewhat creepy break and moderately mushy and kind of slow reset... there is only so much you can do with stamped metal parts at the fact that you still need to pull that striker back with the trigger.

The mushiness is from the connector. All these kits use minus connectors. If you give up some weight and go to a dot or standard connector it cleans up the pull a ton. Still light but it won't be 2.5-3lbs. (Gen 3's typically .5lb lighter with the same setup)
I keep reading the term "dot connector". What exactly is that?

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Glock has the standard connector that comes on gen 3's. With the gen 4 the trigger will be a half pound heavier then the gen 3 because of the steeper geometry of the trigger parts. So Glock came out with the dot connector for the gen 4's. It's in between a minus connector and the standard. Gen 3's will always be able to get a little bit better triggers.

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Just making a comment from my observations lately. I do not want to get into a technical debate on this connector, that spring, ect. This is what I have observed and I only became curious after I saw this the first time. Now I am asking and looking. I hope others will do the same.

I was playing with a friend's G34 that just had a "kit" installed from 3rd party manufacture. Super nice trigger feel. Then I noticed if I cycle the slide, pull trigger, cycle the slide again (just like in real operation) and slowly release the trigger, the trigger safety did not reset. Boom. both my friend and I could repeat this every time.

Another Glock a few days later I tested with a different 3rd party kit. Same thing. Now this kit had some miles on it. So he cleaned and told me it was fixed. Brought it over and after cycling and playing with it many times the issue returned. Now the kit is being replaced by manufacture.

I have now put my hands on 5 different Glocks in the past month or so with various kit's doing the same thing. Some new kits, some used and some very used.

Anyway, I know there are a ton of factors involved. Spring rate, connector, worn parts and striker types just to name a few. But I thought I would share this in the thread so it may encourage you to check your Glock trigger job. Then Check it again as a routine.

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Just making a comment from my observations lately. I do not want to get into a technical debate on this connector, that spring, ect. This is what I have observed and I only became curious after I saw this the first time. Now I am asking and looking. I hope others will do the same.

I was playing with a friend's G34 that just had a "kit" installed from 3rd party manufacture. Super nice trigger feel. Then I noticed if I cycle the slide, pull trigger, cycle the slide again (just like in real operation) and slowly release the trigger, the trigger safety did not reset. Boom. both my friend and I could repeat this every time.

Another Glock a few days later I tested with a different 3rd party kit. Same thing. Now this kit had some miles on it. So he cleaned and told me it was fixed. Brought it over and after cycling and playing with it many times the issue returned. Now the kit is being replaced by manufacture.

I have now put my hands on 5 different Glocks in the past month or so with various kit's doing the same thing. Some new kits, some used and some very used.

Anyway, I know there are a ton of factors involved. Spring rate, connector, worn parts and striker types just to name a few. But I thought I would share this in the thread so it may encourage you to check your Glock trigger job. Then Check it again as a routine.

I have worked on many Glocks and all functioned properly then and now.

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Rhett - yeah that happens. Mine is that way right now with a Zev spring kit & connector, it's due to the heavier trigger return spring IMO. If I put the stock spring it, it resets just fine and is a little firmer of a pull.

We are trying to tune a 1972 John Deere tractor's steering system here, it'll only get so good before it goes Colonel Sanders on us.

Edited by SCTaylor
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Rhett - yeah that happens. Mine is that way right now with a Zev spring kit & connector, it's due to the heavier trigger return spring IMO. If I put the stock spring it, it resets just fine and is a little firmer of a pull.

We are trying to tune a 1972 John Deere tractor's steering system here, it'll only get so good before it goes Colonel Sanders on us.

I don't think it's the extra power trigger spring on its own. That combined with a light firing pin spring will possibly cause reset issues. Just a guess but you are probably running a 4lb spring or something right?

If you are running a 4lb striker spring it's probably best to use a stock trigger spring. If you have a heavier striker spring I think you can get away with the extra power trigger spring. The striker spring is resetting the trigger. So if that's weak, and then needs to battle a heavier trigger spring it's going to reset the trigger with less force. I am no armored. Just what I'm thinking after experience with different triggers, springs, kits, etc.

Edited by Honeybooboo
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Thanks HB. I'll give that a try.

Just FYI I can't say your full name, I despise that show. Haha

Haha don't know why I used that name.

Also, I think gen 3's are more forgiving of aggressive spring setups. Gen 4's seem to have more problems with light striker springs combined with heavy trigger springs. I believe the geometry is more aggressive. Steeper trigger spring angle.

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I don't think it's the extra power trigger spring on its own. That combined with a light firing pin spring will possibly cause reset issues. Just a guess but you are probably running a 4lb spring or something right?

If you are running a 4lb striker spring it's probably best to use a stock trigger spring. If you have a heavier striker spring I think you can get away with the extra power trigger spring. The striker spring is resetting the trigger. So if that's weak, and then needs to battle a heavier trigger spring it's going to reset the trigger with less force. I am no armored. Just what I'm thinking after experience with different triggers, springs, kits, etc.

Correct.

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Just making a comment from my observations lately. I do not want to get into a technical debate on this connector, that spring, ect. This is what I have observed and I only became curious after I saw this the first time. Now I am asking and looking. I hope others will do the same.

I was playing with a friend's G34 that just had a "kit" installed from 3rd party manufacture. Super nice trigger feel. Then I noticed if I cycle the slide, pull trigger, cycle the slide again (just like in real operation) and slowly release the trigger, the trigger safety did not reset. Boom. both my friend and I could repeat this every time.

Another Glock a few days later I tested with a different 3rd party kit. Same thing. Now this kit had some miles on it. So he cleaned and told me it was fixed. Brought it over and after cycling and playing with it many times the issue returned. Now the kit is being replaced by manufacture.

I have now put my hands on 5 different Glocks in the past month or so with various kit's doing the same thing. Some new kits, some used and some very used.

Anyway, I know there are a ton of factors involved. Spring rate, connector, worn parts and striker types just to name a few. But I thought I would share this in the thread so it may encourage you to check your Glock trigger job. Then Check it again as a routine.

This same thing happened to me with a Zev competition trigger setup. I decided on dk because I haven't heard this issue reported with his triggers. It makes me cautious about putting in aftermarket triggers. I ended up changing my carry gun back to stock springs even thought it worked with ghost springs.

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Just making a comment from my observations lately. I do not want to get into a technical debate on this connector, that spring, ect. This is what I have observed and I only became curious after I saw this the first time. Now I am asking and looking. I hope others will do the same.

I was playing with a friend's G34 that just had a "kit" installed from 3rd party manufacture. Super nice trigger feel. Then I noticed if I cycle the slide, pull trigger, cycle the slide again (just like in real operation) and slowly release the trigger, the trigger safety did not reset. Boom. both my friend and I could repeat this every time.

Another Glock a few days later I tested with a different 3rd party kit. Same thing. Now this kit had some miles on it. So he cleaned and told me it was fixed. Brought it over and after cycling and playing with it many times the issue returned. Now the kit is being replaced by manufacture.

I have now put my hands on 5 different Glocks in the past month or so with various kit's doing the same thing. Some new kits, some used and some very used.

Anyway, I know there are a ton of factors involved. Spring rate, connector, worn parts and striker types just to name a few. But I thought I would share this in the thread so it may encourage you to check your Glock trigger job. Then Check it again as a routine.

I have worked on many Glocks and all functioned properly then and now.

I am sure this is the case for you. I have a fleet of Glocks from the 26 to the 35. I work on mine, but not to the extreme some do and mine run just fine.

My point was folks should check. Out of the 5 above the owners had no clue. These kits varied from basic spring/connector pack to a >$180 "super duper" all guts module. Again, folks need to check and you sound like you have a good handle on your guns. But as I stated 5 different owners had no idea of the issue until I pointed it out. Hypothetical situation; Since the articulated trigger safety does not engage the frame as it should it could create a situation where a shooter is re-holstering hot during shooting strings and maybe the shirt tail in gets the trigger guard just enough to touch off a round. Not Good.

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My experience is with the Vanek trigger, but when I used the factory striker I would get light strikes with the lightest spring and WSP primers. When I used his supplied Jager striker, it ran 100%. I was very happy with that striker from him. That being said, I wasn't seeing anywhere near the 2# pull he advertises with the GM Classic kit, even with the lightest spring. It was nice with a positive reset, but much closer to 3 than 2.

If I were to do it over again, I can't see any of the kits being something I couldn't get by working it over myself. Wolff springs and a Ghost connector got me about 85% of the trigger for like 15% of the cost. Even the most expensive of these various kits that I've felt still have a somewhat creepy break and moderately mushy and kind of slow reset... there is only so much you can do with stamped metal parts at the fact that you still need to pull that striker back with the trigger.

The mushiness is from the connector. All these kits use minus connectors. If you give up some weight and go to a dot or standard connector it cleans up the pull a ton. Still light but it won't be 2.5-3lbs. (Gen 3's typically .5lb lighter with the same setup)
I keep reading the term "dot connector". What exactly is that?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glock has the standard connector that comes on gen 3's. With the gen 4 the trigger will be a half pound heavier then the gen 3 because of the steeper geometry of the trigger parts. So Glock came out with the dot connector for the gen 4's. It's in between a minus connector and the standard. Gen 3's will always be able to get a little bit better triggers.

Make a Gen 3 Housing work in a Gen 4 and you got the Ultimate Feel..

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The Vanek housings are great to add adjustability to triggers without pre/overtravel adjustments. If you're going to run the factory trigger bar this is a must have IMO

Edited by taxil343
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The DK Custom website is as follows.

www.glockcustomtriggers.com

It looks like they had a 10% price increase, but their triggers are still worth it. I have three of the competition trigger kits.

Edited by olemiss
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