olemiss

You might try a Barsto gunsmith fit barrel. I put one into a G34 and a G19, and they both shoot as well or better than any of my custom 1911's. Plus, the gunsmith only charged me $90 to fit the barrel as opposed to $300 to fit a 1911 barrel. I tried various semi fit barrels, and they did not do much better than stock, but they did shoot a variety of ammo the same with decent groups. The stock barrel shot some ammo with good groups and some ammo bad groups. I got Doug Jones at Acc-u-rail to do the barrel fitting.

You can do it in about 10 minutes if you have toolheads ready to go.

Thanks for the information. I think I will go with a CMore, then.

I just put together a PCC on an AR platform. I put an Aimpoint clone (Holosun) on it, and it comes with the lower 1/3 cowitness height mount, which is about 1 3/4 inch above the top rail on the upper receiver to the middle of the lens. Absolute cowitness is about 1 1/2 inches above the top rail. I am thinking about using using a CMore since that is what is on my open gun. Does anyone have a CMore mounted on an AR and could tell me the distance from the top of the upper receiver to the middle of the lens? Thanks!

I use 3.5 g of N310 under the Precision Delta 124g HP bullets. The load is accurate and soft shooting out of my 16 inch barrel. I am using Glock mags, so I can only load out to 1.150 and get them to fit in the mag. I have a JP barrel, and it will accept longer loads - I tried my open loads at 1.170 and they passed the plunk test, but my Glock mags will not accept them that long.

I got a WC drop in Glock barrel, and it would shoot good groups more consistently than the standard Glock barrel, meaning that group size was about the same but it shot decent groups with a variety of ammo, whereas the factory barrel would shoot some ammo well and others not so well. I then had my gunsmith fit a BarSto match target barrel to my G34 and now it shoots as well as any of my custom 1911's. It was definitely worth it. By the way, my gunsmith charges me $250 and up to fit a 1911 barrel but only $90 to fit the Glock barrel.

8.7 g of 3N37 under a MG 115 g JHP at 1.165 inches. I currently run 9.0 g 3N37 at 175 PF. 8.8 g of HS6 under a MG 115 g JHP at 1.165 inches. I currently run 9.2 g of 3N37 at 174 PF. For Steel Challenge, I run 7.5 g HS6 under a MG 115 JHP at 1.145 inches.

I have both a 1050 and a 650. I used the 650 for many years, but after a back injury, priming on the upstroke was hard on my back. Using the 1050, I can't even feel the priming operation (on the downstroke) and reloading is not tiring at all. If I was younger, a 650 would serve my needs, but after having used a 1050, I would not go back! I currently size/trim rifle brass on my 650 and reload calibers I shoot only rarely. Loading .223 on the 1050 and not having to worry about crimped primer pockets is also very convenient. (Since the toolheads for the 1050 are fairly expensive, I only load .223 on the 1050 and process on the 650.) My recommendation would be to keep the 1050, sell the LNL, and buy a 650 to use for less commonly reloaded calibers.

Your gunsmith should be able to get barrels. I know that I was trying to find a Kart or similar barrel for a build and none were available; however, my gunsmith was able to order a Kart barrel and got it within a week. They seem to have resources that us mere parts orderer's don't have.

I am having the BarSto gunsmith fit barrels fitted to a G19 and a G34. I have several guns I shoot 9mm ammo through, including 1911's, so I did not want to have to load different lengths. I sent a dummy round with a MG 115 JPH loaded to 1.155 inches over all length and am having the barrels freebored so that it will chamber. I was assured this would not affect accuracy - my 9mm open gun can chamber that load out to 1.180 and it will still shoot a hole with shorter loaded ammo. I was more into the convenience of being able to load a little longer to function better in the 1911's and still being able to use them in the Glocks. The open 9mm major ammo I run in a 2011 gun is longer than will chamber in the Glocks (it is longer than will fit into the Glock magazine also) and that adds a little safety in case I accidentally get the loads mixed up!

The DK Custom website is as follows. www.glockcustomtriggers.com It looks like they had a 10% price increase, but their triggers are still worth it. I have three of the competition trigger kits.

When the power factor was 175 for major, we shot tens and tens of thousands of 180+ PF ammo through our limited guns. They held up just fine - we even used lighter springs (12-14 lb was common). We used a 180g bullet over Clays, but that was only loaded long in a barrel with a significant leed. For a safer load, a 180g bullet over Tightgroup or VVN320 would be good.

Is your reloading bench secure? If it flexes or moves when you cycle the press, the case feeder can shake and cause those problems.

I had the same problem. I have used a lot of the 180 g Bayou .40 bullets and never had a problem. However, the last batch of 1000 I had about 10 that would not chamber because they were way oversized. They were sized to .402 instead of .401 except for the ones that would not chamber. I pulled them and they were .403. I am loading long (1.225 in ) so they were on the edge of chambering, anyway.

I am having the same problem. I just loaded a batch of 40 S&W on a XL650 and a batch of 9mm on a Super1050. I am using the Lee (EGW) undersize die for both. I am getting at least 5 primers pulled back in per 100. It seems to have gotten worse this year. I have tried profiling the decapping pin but did not see an improvement. I'm at my wits end. With the 650, it is fairly easy to feel that the primer did not come out when a new primer tries to seat and I can just pull the case off the shell plate. With the 1050, however, I have to watch and see if the old primer drops in the collection bucket for each pull of the handle or I have to remove the problem case from the new primer station and remove the other rounds since press did not bottom out. It is much more of a hassle. Could it be that I spray Dillon case lube on cases and load some and leave the others in the case feeder for a week or two before I load again? I have had the problem with once fired brass, starline brass that has been fired several times, and unknown origin range brass. Help!

You might try a Lee undersized resizing die. That will do much better than just more crimp.

Fasttarget, I am using 4.5 g of N310 with a 180g Zero.

I use N310 exclusively for .40 S&W, but I load long (1.180 aol) and use a 2011 gun. I would not feel comfortable shooting major with it loaded short in a Glock or similar tupperware gun. I have used the 180g jacketed bullets from Zero and Montana Gold along with the 180g Bayou coated bullets. I think it is the best powder for .40 I have tried for use in a 1911 or 2011 gun with a fully supported chamber. That said, I remember the old days when we used to load 180g jacketed bullets in .40 to 180 power factor with Hodgdon Clays; that was on the edge of safety, but we had long freebored barrels to help reduce the pressure.

I use the Lee undersize die only in 9mm to get a good tension between the case and the bullet. With the Dillon sizing die in 9mm and even a heavy crimp, I could still push bullets deeper into the case with a little pressure. With the undersize die, I did not need to use a crimp (just remove the case mouth bell) and I could not push bullets deeper into the case.

After loading on a 650 for the last 12 years, I finally ordered a 1050 from Brian Enos's store. All I can say is WOW! I just loaded 1000 rounds of 9mm and it was easier on me than loading 250 rounds on the 650. Priming on the downstroke takes a lot of fatigue out of reloading. In fact, I can't even feel the primer going in the case. Also, sizing at station 2 with the case held by a locator pin means no more crushed cases like I get sometimes on the 650. The free aluminum bullet tray is also a nice addition from the store here. Thanks!

Just try different powders and see which one you like and that "feels" good. I like N310 for 9mm minor. N320, Clays, and Titegroup did not give me the accuracy that N310 does.

I was about to send my red dot back because the dot was not circular and was slightly smeared. Then I took a picture of the dot with my phone to send to the manufacturer, and the dot in the picture looked perfect. That's when I discovered it was my eyes.

I just started shooting open and have experienced something similar with one of my open guns, both 9mm. Gun 1: Single stack 9mm steel challenge pistol: steel single stack frame, slide cut to 4.5 inches and lightened considerably, 3 port comp, CMore, 8 lb recoil spring. Gun 2: Major 9mm pistol: STI frame, 5 inch slide, lightened considerable, 4 port Ti comp, CMore, 9 lb recoil spring. Shooting 150 PF loads (7.5 g HS6 with 115 g JHP) in the single stack steel gun (Gun 1) - the dot rises slightly and comes right back to the middle of the lens. Shooting this same load in my STI frame open 9mm (Gun 2) - the dot rises slightly but then dips slightly before returning to the center of the lens. Shooting 175 PF loads (9.0g 3N37, 115 g JHP) in Gun 2 has similar results (dot dipping after rising), but cycles faster and the dot is easier to track. I think it has to do with the center of mass being different on the two pistols. The polymer STI frame is lighter meaning more weight percentage above my hands, while the steel frame gun has more weight percentage in my hands. I have tried running an 8 lb spring in the STI with the same results: still have slight dot dipping. I am going to experiment with grip pressure and stance and see if I can reduce the dip.

I used to have that problem. I had a single stack Kimber .40 and put the top end on a PT frame. The barrel was the stock Kimber .40 barrel and shot well in the single stack gun. However, on the PT frame, the first shot was always 5 inches low at 25 yards. I tried all the ways of loading the first round, but it would always shoot 5 inches low; then the gun would then group into about 2 inches after that. I had a new barrel fit to that gun and the problem disappeared. I believe it is a symptom of barrel misfit.

I am planning on building an open 22 pistol for rimfire division. From those who just went to the 2015 Steel Nationals, what types of rimfire pistols were working the best? I was thinking of either a Ruger 22/45 with TS upper or a TS 2011 conversion on an 1911 or 2011 frame. Thanks for the replies.