NuJudge

There is an aftermarket equipment maker, who makes something like an M-die, which fits into the Dillon powder die. He calls them his Powder Transfer Unit, or PTU: : https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/ I have them for .45 acp, .38 Special, 9mm and .32 S&W-L. They are particularly useful when using soft Lead bullets, to prevent them from being squashed smaller by a tight case during seating.

My guess is you want a bullet weight below 180gr and a velocity of about 750fps. I did a series of searches on AmmoSeek, and found nothing. https://ammoseek.com/ammo/45acp I first tried a number of bullet weights, then for all bullet weights had it look for "minor". I have shot a lot of Wilson Combat and Michigan Ammo reduced Lead bullet ammo: http://www.michiganammo.com/products.html https://wilsoncombat.com/45-acp-remanufactured-reduced-velocity-200gr-glc-l-swc-400-bulk.html My experience in Industry is that suppliers would certify that what they were shipping me was green cheese from the Moon if I paid enough. If you talk to a local loader, and commit to buying enough, they'll make you whatever you want.

Only with the .22 conversion kit mounted.

If you run a .22 LR conversion, the 11 and 12 pound mainsprings will give your ignition problems. I run 16 pound with them. I have been shooting 12 pound mainsprings on several 9mm 92 pistols for several years now, with no issues with any ammo.

Some grades of Stainless will rust, especially if there is salt around, such as from sweat. What makes Stainless resist rust is a rather clear and tightly adhering Chrome oxide layer, which prevents any more oxygen reaching the steel. If something removes the chrome oxide layer, and/or prevents it from forming, you will have rust. I have no experience with that model.

What are you going to do with this ammo? Bullseye? Plinking? Bowling Pins or Plates? What pistol are these to be fired in? Peak accuracy is usually achieved a bit over 700 fps in the 1911. You want much higher velocity for knocking down Bowling Pins, but sometimes not so much for steel plates. I believe that 231 is made in the St Marks, Florida plant, and Zip is imported from Belgium. Winchester 231 actually is the same as HP38, in the same factory.

For most autos, you need to run higher pressures and you should have no problems. Most shotgun components I am using now is from friends' estates. You should look on places like Craig's List and other local sales lists. Reclaimed shot is a way to cut costs for Skeet ammo, but it will put fine scratches in your bore, and I find that it does not pattern worth a darn in Trap. For Skeet shooting, I find I can shoot my average with 3/4 or 7/8 ounce of Lead even in a 12 gauge, and with such loads I can shoot twice as much Skeet before fatigue sets in. I have shot a 25 in 12 gauge Skeet with 5/8 ounce loads.

Reloading the quantity of ammo I shoot in Bullseye pistol, on a single stage, would get old in a hurry. Turret presses are faster, without being too expensive. Progressives can be much more ... difficult and expensive. I find it a lot easier to load really accurate .45 acp , than 9mm. There are lots of discussions on techniques for each on the Bullseye-L forum's ammunition subforum: https://www.bullseyeforum.net/f13-ammunition-discussion What exactly you are going to need in dies is going to depend on what your load is. If you are going to shoot Lead bullets, you need somewhat different dies than Jacketed, because high neck tension is fine with Jacketed, but it may squash your Lead bullet diameter to too small. With Lead bullets, if possible, I want the size die to leave the case such that the ID is right at bullet diameter, and if not possible I want an expander which leaves the ID the same as bullet OD down to the bullet base. If you are shooting Jacketed, you are free to have high neck tension, which will prevent bullet set-back on feeding. Lead bullets frequently have external lubrication, which sometimes builds up in Seating dies, causing bullets to seat deeper, and if you clean it out you lose adjustment with all but the Dillon seater. You'll want to match the Seating stem to match the bullet you are using. There are specialty expander and seating stem makers to deal with this: https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/

If you have a shoulder problem, you may be able to shoot one of the Beretta 92/96 pistols with a .22 conversion kit. There are several conversion kits, and two from Beretta, one being made by Beretta in the past, and another by Umarex for Beretta now. Both of the Beretta conversions have aluminum slides, which lightens the pistol a lot. Before you buy anything, ask yourself what you want to do with it. Also, for serious use pistols, you probably want safeties that have forward/up for safe, or down/back for safe: a pistol school I belong to tracks NDs, and many are 92FS (up/forward is fire) shooters who are temporarily shooting a 1911 (up is safe), and they holster a loaded/cocked/off-safe 1911). Are you required to use a safety? During jam clearance drills, I frequently accidentally push on the 92FS safety. If you are required to carry on safe the way the US Army does, you need to have a manual of arms that always includes a thumb-flick to get the safety off. If a Safety is not required, either go with a "G" slide or go with the "G" conversion available from Beretta. Mention is made of the Vertec grip frame. It is cut down to nearly the 1911 grip frame dimensions.

What kind of ammo do you want to load, and for what purpose? If you are going to load soft Lead bullets, there is a problem with the bullets swaging down smaller if you use a sizer that produces a case ID much smaller than the bullet, and you don't expand it out to bullet diameter. For such bullets, especially swaged Lead hollow-base bullets, you may want to get a special order full length sizer that produces a larger OD than usual, aiming for a larger ID, and the the only people that make such is Lee. If I am shooting my own really hard cast bullets, or shooting jacketed, I don't worry about bullets being reduced in diameter by tight case ID, and I would like a undersize size die to make set back impossible. The only people that make those are Lee. If you are using cast or swaged Lead bullets with external lubrication, the lube may build up in your seating die, and such build-up will usually result in bullets being seated deeper, meaning you will have to disassemble for cleaning frequently. With all but one brand of seating die, when you disassemble for cleaning, you lose adjustment. The one brand of die where you do not lose adjustment is Dillon. There are some accessory makers. Photoescape makes some neat accessories for progressive presses. I am using his powder transfer unit to expand .32 S&W for HBWC and dump powder on a 650. https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/index.html UniqueTek makes lots of accessories for different progressive presses and different dies. One of the things I really like is the SWC bullet seat stem he makes for SWC bullets that fits Dillon seat dies https://uniquetek.com/product/T1561

Durability of once-fired brass depends on what what it was fired in before, and what has been done since. A lot of the once-fired brass that has been offered to me was fired in fully automatic firearms, many of which have loose headspace. My experience is that such brass takes a lot more work to make it useable (perhaps requiring Small Base full length sizing dies), and it will develop incipient head separations after just 2 or 3 more firings. With semi-auto rifles, I have not expected more than 4 or 5 firings. Not only does incipient head separation start appearing, but extractors are hard on case heads. RCBS developed the X-Die awhile ago, and I am going to try them on .223, .308 and .30-06. RCBS advertises, and some users confirm, that they prevent case lengthening, eliminate additional trimming after the first trimming, and prevent incipient head separation.

Ernest Langdon is the source of many of the ideas in the Wilson pistol: changing the trigger bar such that during the DA pull the hammer rotates a good bit further back, storing more energy for the same mainspring weight, and letting us get away with a bit lighter mainspring weights. As always, let your wallet be your guide. Langdon has some more ideas in his own pistols: a trigger bar different from the Wilson bar in that it has a shorter reset. Langdon also reworks the fire control parts three other ways. The least expensive is the Trigger Job in a Bag, where you install parts he has already worked on, which does about 80% of what he can do with a full trigger job. The second is a full trigger job, where you have to send in the pistol. The third is where you send him your pistol and he does a trigger job, then sends the parts out for NP3 coating. The second spring Wilson sent you is probably the stock spring, about 20 pounds rating. The D spring is about 16 pounds. If you get a .22 conversion kit, the 12 and 13 pound mainsprings will fail to ignite some .22 rimfire cartridges. The 16 pound should ignite all rimfire cartridges. My experience has been that the Wilson and Langdon trigger bars impart enough more energy using a 12 pound spring that I get 100% ignition even with hard primers, but keep in mind that Federal is acknowledged to be the most sensitive. If it is really important and you are going low with the mainspring strength, go with Federal, if you can.

Ammo search engines will help you. My favorite one indicates there is no .32 Special anywhere. Run this engine periodically: https://ammoseek.com

All the bullets I cast for myself are bare grooved Lead, with a thick lubricant in the grooves. Not every bare grooved Lead bullet is accurate enough for 25 and 50 yard Bullseye shooting, but the ones I cast are. As with all Lead bullets, pay attention to what your groove diameter is, and use bullets that are at least that diameter. Pay attention to how much neck tension you have in your case, and whether your case swages down your bullet on seating.

Trijicon® RMR® please. I have 3.25 and 6.5 MOA dots I also have several Ultradot tube sights, 2 MOA dots.