JFlowers Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 My 625 is currently with Carmoney for one of his action jobs. But to ensure things run well, I was hoping everyone could let me in on their tips and tricks for "well seated" primers. I am loading on a 550 and need to know if its more than just "seat them hard". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 My 625 is currently with Carmoney for one of his action jobs. But to ensure things run well, I was hoping everyone could let me in on their tips and tricks for "well seated" primers. I am loading on a 550 and need to know if its more than just "seat them hard". You can give it a double bump on the seat, that's about it on the 550 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 (edited) Try 2 foward pushes on the handle when seating the primer. They should be about .010 below flush. You can check the depth w/ the end of your caliper that comes out as you open it up. If that doesn't get it, there's always the hand priming tools. I use a 650 and made a shim for the seating punch that is .010 thick, placed under the seating assembly. I can't remember if the 550 has the same seating assy as the 650. If it does, this has worked for me. I still use a double push, hard to change old habbits. Hope this helps. Edited November 5, 2009 by granderojo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I made a roller handle for both my 550s with a M/C grip. It is comfortable and easy to just push hard forward smoothly for each primer. There is a good feel for how they seat doing it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I was told to keep the shellplate as tight as you can get away with as a means of seating as deep as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I use a rcbs hand priming tool after I seat the primers with the 550 then I unscrew the resizing die and load my ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waltermitty Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 My 625 is currently with Carmoney for one of his action jobs. But to ensure things run well, I was hoping everyone could let me in on their tips and tricks for "well seated" primers. I am loading on a 550 and need to know if its more than just "seat them hard". I put a shim under the primer anvil on my 550. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I was told to keep the shellplate as tight as you can get away with as a means of seating as deep as possible. Have not tried the "roller-bearing" upgrade to the dillon shell-plate; I wonder if that would help or hurt? I tend to crush the heck out of Federals intended for the 625; I have not set one off yet (though maybe I should wear eye and ear protection while loading??!? ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JThompson Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I was told to keep the shellplate as tight as you can get away with as a means of seating as deep as possible. Have not tried the "roller-bearing" upgrade to the dillon shell-plate; I wonder if that would help or hurt? I tend to crush the heck out of Federals intended for the 625; I have not set one off yet (though maybe I should wear eye and ear protection while loading??!? ). Not so much with the ears, but if you don't wear eye protection, I'll come over there and poke you in the eyes The Stooges style. JT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFlowers Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 When ya'll say shim, what exactly are you talking about? Just a round disc of material in the primer cup to push the primer that much deeper? Material? Thickness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 (edited) You need to put the shim under the primer seating device. I can't remember how it is installed on the press, it's been too long since I loaded on a 550. Should be able to losen tht bolt that holds the assembly to the body of the press and slide it under the punch end and the press, then tighten the bolt down. Waltermitty says that's what he did to his 550. I cut out the side of a 40 case (about .010 on the discharge end). Run a few cases through and check the seated depth. Edited November 4, 2009 by granderojo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revoman Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Load all my revolver ammo on a 650 with Federal Primers and I have Carmonized, Pinnicale, RPM and then some of my own trigger jobs and they all run between 5 to 6lbs. I have never crushed or extended any extra pressure when seating the primer. I have never had a lite strike or failure to ignite. I say load them up and try them and if they go boom don't worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 As I have mentioned in the past, I reseat the primers on all my match revolver ammo with a K&M hand-priming tool. It's an extra step in the ammo prep process, but well worth it to ensure ignition reliability in my competition revolvers. I'm not a huge volume shooter these days, so it's not a big deal--and it gives me something to do on those rare occasions when I have time to sit down and watch TV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisC Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 As I have mentioned in the past, I reseat the primers on all my match revolver ammo with a K&M hand-priming tool. It's an extra step in the ammo prep process, but well worth it to ensure ignition reliability in my competition revolvers. I'm not a huge volume shooter these days, so it's not a big deal--and it gives me something to do on those rare occasions when I have time to sit down and watch TV. before or after you load them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snertley Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 After loading them. I do the same and have never had a failure. I use a RCBS hand priming tool, and I do wear proper eye protection. Just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 (edited) Yep, me too. I resqueeze the loaded rounds. No biggie. Although you could certainly prime the brass beforehand if you prefer. Any of the hand-priming tools will work, although the Sinclair ($$$) and the K&M (not so $$$) are high-quality tools that are designed to last for years. I like the fact that the K&M tool will accept Lee shellholders which are cheap and readily available. Edited November 4, 2009 by Carmoney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Z Sr Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I've loaded on a 550 for over 20 years and never had a problem until one match with 12 light hits on Federals. Since then, I single stage deprime all my 45 ACP brass and then clean the primer pockets out on an RCBS case prep machine. I then hand prime using the cheap "Lee" hand primer. I tend to break a handle about every 3000 rounds or so, but they are only about $2.00 apiece, and "Lee" will send you some replacements under warranty. I know many are saying what a waste of time, but I've not had a light hit in over 10,000 rounds since my new process, and it also gives me an extra look or 2 at the brass for splits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bwana Six-Gun Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Load all my revolver ammo on a 650 with Federal Primers and I have Carmonized, Pinnicale, RPM and then some of my own trigger jobs and they all run between 5 to 6lbs. I have never crushed or extended any extra pressure when seating the primer. I have never had a lite strike or failure to ignite. I say load them up and try them and if they go boom don't worry about it. I too use a 650 without any adjustments and all my wheel-guns go boom when the trigger is pulled if the primer is good. In the last 7 or so years shooting a wheel, I can count on one hand the number of clicks and in each case, when I got home I pulled the bullet and put the case in my old 1917 to check it and sure enough they still went click. Bad Primer. Just grip it and rip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ede Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 i use a 1050 and a 650. the 1050 doesn't take any extra steps but the ammo from the 650 isn't quite as good, or primers as well seated. still i use a RCBS universal hand priming tool after the ammo leaves the press. the biggest down side to this is i've gotten it in my head it "couldn't hurt" so i do it to ALL my match ammo now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taildraggerdave Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Something else to consider is your brass. If you use range pick up brass, then I'd recommend setting an amount aside and cleaning all the primer pockets with one of those cleaner/cutter/uniformer hand tools. Just one time so you know that all the brass is cool. The other (better) option might be to get 500 or so pieces of Starline brass and keep that for your revo only. That was my route on a 625 being fed by a 550B. My preferred method on the 550B is to feel the primer enter the case and give a firm steady push then on to the next round. Take care, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rather-B-Huntin Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I do it like Carmoney does it. I re-seat the primers on loaded ammo using a RCBS hand primer. This gives me a seated depth of 0.009" below flush. And yes, I wear safety glasses. And yes, I know this is not recommended or safe. But I'm not afraid. I live with fear every day. And sometimes she lets me go shooting!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigar45 Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I can consistently get primers seated to .010" below flush on my 550... I have not shimmed or anything, I just give it a hard push, rotate the case ~180 degrees and give another hard push. I have actually had a problem OVER seating with some brass- I think it was R-P. The primer was deep enough that the firing pin couldn't reach it enough to give it more than a light dent. Looks like I need to go in for one of them fancy long firing pins. C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revopop Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 All I've ever done on my SDB is to lean into the handle (I load standing) while seating the primers haven't had a misfire yet with large pistol primers. I did find out the hard way that a little more effort was required for small pistol primers. I had plans to reseat my ammo for Memphis, but then I had to call in sick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 I suffer from a severe case of OCD whereby Starline match brass is deprimed & resized in a RCBS Rock Chucker using Lee/ECW undersize die then the primer pocket is cleaned before repriming with a RCBS hand priming tool. The reloading process includes picking up a handful of cases with my right hand, feeding a new case into my 550 with the same hand and lowering the handle with a ball type end so it is hard to exert major force. The OCD part, practice Starline brass does not have the primer pocket cleaned. I forgot to mention the 9 & 40 brass receive the same treatment as practice revo brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I give 'em a good shove, and my acid test is if I can see the priming compound through the primer after I'm done. It should have a very light dimple in the center. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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