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Keeping the Glock ticking.


Corjyn

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Highly recommend you shoot the heck out of it. Other than not shooting lead through the stock barrel, I don't think you can hurt it.

I've put about 7000 rounds/year through mine for 4 years; I keep it relatively clean, and it works for me.

It's just not a thing of great beauty, like some guns I own.

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I have heard of certain brake cleaners that will attack the frame, but I haven't found them. No "gun specific" cleaners that I have ever heard of will damage the gun. Clean it when you get around to it- no hurry. I use whatever bore cleaner that is on the shelf when I run out- along with Tetra gun oil and grease.

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I have heard of certain brake cleaners that will attack the frame, but I haven't found them. No "gun specific" cleaners that I have ever heard of will damage the gun. Clean it when you get around to it- no hurry. I use whatever bore cleaner that is on the shelf when I run out- along with Tetra gun oil and grease.

The only way that I have been able to hurt a Glock is when I placed my model 22 service weapon in the trunk of the police car together with a car battery. Consequently the car battery tipped over and its accid spilled on to the weapon. The slide suffered some damage however the potential problem was that the gun was for lack of a better word glued to the holster........need I say what could have taken place? Luckily I noticed the problem before the next tour of duty. But a Glock pistol is by far the most dependable and undestructable gun on the planet. Do not baby it !

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Just keep it simple. When it gets good and gunked up I use Simple Green a toothbrush and warm water on the lower. Blast it with air or a hair dryer and you're gold. And, of all things... Hoppes #9 solvent for the upper. Avoid aerosol gun cleaners cleaners. Huge rip off. For that matter stay away from break cleaners too. They work but carry a significant health risk.

Jim

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My formula is: Simple Green for the grime. A little Powder Blast to remove gunpowder residue. A little CLP in and on the barrel. A little tiny dab of light Slide Glide on the four metal tabs on the receiver that engage the slide. And with all these things, less is more.

For a great video on the care and feeding of Glocks, check out the AGI video "Making Glocks Rock". You can buy it from a number of sources or rent it from SmartFlix

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Hey Glocksters!!

Just purchased a G-35 and curious since this is the first polymer framed gun I've owned. Is their certain cleaning solvents I should avoid that would damage the polymer? Do you recommend one?

John

I probably wouldn't use BURNING GASOLINE to clean it. Don't do anything to the Glock you wouldn't do to an all steel pistol and you will be fine.....

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Simple Green, Hoppes, Shooter's Choice, good to go.

BTW, I tested my glocks to see just how much lack of cleaning they could take. All of them eventually had failures to feed, and all of them were due to the chambers being so dirty they wouldn't smoothly seat the round in the chamber. With an aftermarket barrelled G24, it took 5k rounds. With my G34 with OEM barrel, it took over 15k rounds. I cleaned the chambers and repeated with the same results. I finally broke down and cleaned the rest of the gun after the second go-arounds. They didn't need it to still operate, but I had a year's worth of shooting on the springs and needed to change them, so, they got cleaned. Basically, I'm not sure you can get a glock, other than the chamber and the striker channel, so dirty it fails.

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My formula is: Simple Green for the grime. A little Powder Blast to remove gunpowder residue. A little CLP in and on the barrel. A little tiny dab of light Slide Glide on the four metal tabs on the receiver that engage the slide. And with all these things, less is more.

Do you watch me clean my Glock Graham? Uncanny to be sure ;)

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I just run a Boresnake through the barrel a few times after each range session. Glocks need minimal lube, generally 7 drops; one per rail, at the barrel / slide junction front and rear, and on the cruciform. If you overlube it, it will just attract dust and not work any better.

IMHO Stay away from Break Free / CLP. It's thick, the teflon doesn't stay suspended, and the chlorinated cleaners will create hydrochloric acid (in an airtight environment, but why risk it?).

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If you overlube it, it will just attract dust and not work any better.

IMHO Stay away from Break Free / CLP. It's thick, the teflon doesn't stay suspended, and the chlorinated cleaners will create hydrochloric acid (in an airtight environment, but why risk it?).

I AGREE about NOT "Over-lubing"--at least, as far as Glocks are concerned!!!--but I use "Break Free CLP" on ALL my guns, with COMPLETE satisfaction...on the Glocks, I MAY use a DAB of a LIGHT grease--like Wilson's "Ultima Lube"--on the Connector/Trigger Bar interface, but otherwise, it's ALL CLP for ME, Baby!!!... :closedeyes: ....mikey357

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Just keep it simple. When it gets good and gunked up I use Simple Green a toothbrush and warm water on the lower. Blast it with air or a hair dryer and you're gold. And, of all things... Hoppes #9 solvent for the upper. Avoid aerosol gun cleaners cleaners. Huge rip off. For that matter stay away from break cleaners too. They work but carry a significant health risk.

Jim

+1..EXACTLY what I use. Simple Green (works wonders) and Hoppes #9. A few dabs of CLP Breakfree oil where your manual tells you to put it and you're golden.

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  • 2 weeks later...

O.K. let me say I have never tried this on a Glock but I would avoid Carb cleaner. As a auto technician I have learned that Carb cleaner will melt some types of plactics like a telephone (don't ask its a long story). If any one is wondering the only reason I have ever used Carb cleaner on a gun is that it is designed to break up carbon the very thing we get in our chambers. For the most part I agree with the previous post that a Glock don't need much cleaning (thats why I like them well and the price)

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SAVE THE DINOSAURS!!!!

SEVEN DROPS OF OIL???? You're lubing the thing like it's a danged 1911..... :D

From the factory: One drop of oil on your finger, spread this out on the outside of the barrel, paying attention to the lower lugs also. Your finger will still be wet. Wipe the excess oil in the inside of the slide where the barrel rides.

Second Drop of oil: Put on the fingertip again and then touch all four hard points (frame rails) with it.

Third drop goes at the trigger bar/connector junction in the right-rear corner of the frame assembly.

That's it. Now just think how many dinosaurs you'll save by not over-lubing your Glock....

The only time that I'll vary from this procedure is if I have completely stripped the slide of all oil (either thru Brake Cleaner or Ultrasonic cleaning with Simple Green). Then I'll do a drop down each slide rail. For normal, everyday cleaning, there's enough oil left in the rails that the additional is not needed.

Edited by Braxton1
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