I can only buy one revolver?

[USA-57]

Hi Newbie here, the misses and the moneys, say i can ony buy one revolver, so i plan on make a good one. The first choice is a S&W, but the are very pricey, looking a a ruger, but it look like most here a using a s&w here.

why is that? and what type of smith? and caliber? Speed Loader? ect?

I am looking at a 686 but others here are using a 625, is their a madness to this?

What can You recommend if you can only have one?

[steel1212]

Take this for what its worth as I don't typically shoot the wheel but I do own a couple. If you can have only one get a 625. You can play USPSA/IDPA/ICORE all with it. You can hunt with it if you like. Get some moon clips and reload some round nose .45 and have a blast.

[AlamoShooter]

S&W Should be your only line to pick from, even if they cost twice as much as the next one.

I have never owned a 625 I started with a colt Cobra. 357 that lasted past the first match and I traded into a 686

I shot that for several years , when My wife started to shoot we went with the small grips and that 686 became her gun, she shot several National Team matches with it. her gun got stolen out of my truck, That is the only possession I have ever saw her cry over lousing.

Our Friends at S&W gave her a sweet deal on the new 686+ and that eased her pain. I know she would turn down a $1,000 bill for that gun.

I Have the 610 , 627 686 and a J frame six shot with a 686 barrel on it.

The 686+ I think is the very best gun for the dollar. I don't make very fast reload though. most of my revolver shooting in on Steel.

Personally I have no desire to shoot USPSA with a revolver

[Revopop]

I would agree that a 625 is probably the most versatile revolver. If you ever plan to shoot IDPA, get a 4", if not, get a 5".

Having said that, 625s are more expensive and harder to find than K and L frame .38/.357s. If you're planning on shooting mostly IDPA, I'd get a 4" K or L frame and start saving up, keeping an eye out, and working on the wife to let you get a 625 as well.

Most everyone here is going to say S&W for the simple fact that they are easy to work on and readily available. Colts look nice, but in my limited experience with them the stacking DA pull is much better suited to bullseye-style slow fire than to practical shooting. Rugers are nice, and a lot of us here like them, but because of their policies of not selling parts and replacing any modded parts back to factory configuration is you send the gun to them for repair, they are a less than ideal choice for expensive gunsmithing work.

Whatever you decide, pick one and practice. Don't stress too much about the equipment, it's going to be a long time before that's what's holding you back.

[Wideload]

Hi Newbie here, the misses and the moneys, say i can ony buy one revolver, so i plan on make a good one. The first choice is a S&W, but the are very pricey, looking a a ruger, but it look like most here a using a s&w here.

why is that? and what type of smith? and caliber? Speed Loader? ect?

I am looking at a 686 but others here are using a 625, is their a madness to this?

What can You recommend if you can only have one?

What are you wanting out of the revolver? Shoot uspsa, idpa, icore, bianchi.... or some combination of above. The answer could vary based on your interest..(i.e., barrel length and caliber)

Also, do you alredy reload for .45 acp or .40 s&w? If you do, you may want to consider a S&W 625 or 610 and standardize on the ammo.

Edited April 4, 2009 by Wideload

[mgood]

I would agree that a 625 is probably the most versatile revolver. If you ever plan to shoot IDPA, get a 4", if not, get a 5".

Why?

Is a 5" too long to be legal in IDPA? Or is it less competitive in their matches for some reason?

A 5" barrel has always seemed about ideal to me. Under 4" seems a little short and 6+" seems a little on the long side. I'm not what you'd call a revo guy, so I'm going mostly on what looks appealing to me, knowing very little about what works.

I've been wanting a 610 which comes in 4" (3.875") and 6.5". I've about settled on the four, but if they had a fiver, I'd probably be all over it.

And on the "I can only buy one revolver?" subject:

Keep in mind that 1) I'm a newbie to this forum and to competition, and 2) the only revolver I own (have ever owned) is a single-action NAA Pug .22Mag with a 1" barrel. So I probably don't know what I'm talking about.

The 610 looks very versatile to me. Loaded to just make major it seems it would be great for USPSA competition. Full power .40 or light 10mm ("FBI loads") would make it a great defensive weapon. (A little big for concealed carry, but I'm talking about a nightstand gun or something for the console in the car.) Full-on 10mm loads are in the same neighborhood as .41 Magnum and would be a good hunting gun. Of course the 625, which most people here will tell you to get, can fill most of those roles about as well.

[Tom Mainus]

IDPA only allows a 4" barrel on a revolver. Depending on if you are shooting only local matches, they might let you shoot the 5", but any sanctioned match it has to be a 4" If it were me, I would get a 625 with the 5" barrel. It would exclude you from IDPA, but would be perfect for USPSA and ICORE. I guess it depends on what type of matches are available to you locally.

Tom

[Storm52]

Thankfully I've never been subjected to the 'only can have one' and own several S&W revolvers. I also have 3 Colt Python safe queens and a couple of Rugers. Since you are looking for opinions, here is mine. As far as versatility, the 686 or 586 (if they still make them in blue) would be my choice for the following reasons:

1. S&W has the most available after market accessories, parts and upgrades. Gunsmiths for tuning and modifications are readily available in most, if not all, areas.

2. The 686 can accomodate 38 and 357. The .38 is far cheaper to use, than 357 and either caliber is much less expensive than 45acp. This hold true whether you purchase factory or reload. The .38's make great practice and target ammo. The .357 is an excellent defensive round.

3. Used 686's are available and would be an excellent choice, although I fully understand owning a gun that you were the 1st person to put a round through it. S&W revolvers have great resale value, which for the purchaser might not be ideal, but if you decided to sell it and purchase something else, you could expect a good fair market price in the future.

Others have mentioned Ruger and the warranty repair issue and still others have recommended the S&W 625. The 625 is a great gun in 45 acp but finding one is a bit difficult in today's market.

Whatever you decide, be safe.

[20nickels]

Only one revolver??? That's what I said six revolvers ago! I must have an addiction.

[dwr461]

I'm a huge Colt DA revolver fan. That being said I'd still choose a S&W for competition. Either the 625 or the 610 would be a good choice.

Dave

[EEH]

JUST MY $.02 --if your S&W EVER BREAKS OR HAS A PROBLEM CALL S&W THEY WILL SEND YOU A TICKET TO SEND IT BACK TO THE FACTORY AND IT WILL BE REPAIRED,AT NO COST TO YOU,,unless of course you run it over with the truck or let your dog play with it--with most of the others you pretty much on your own--thats my .$02 good luck

[Matt Griffin]

You've heard the story, the 625 is the way to go. I do wish IDPA would allow 5" guns, but I love the little bit of extra radius on the sights. You can get one raw on gunbroker for 625$ or so, or wait for a properly tuned one on here for not much more.

H.

[Carmoney]

You've heard the story, the 625 is the way to go. I do wish IDPA would allow 5" guns, but I love the little bit of extra radius on the sights. You can get one raw on gunbroker for 625$ or so, or wait for a properly tuned one on here for not much more.

H.

Uh, you can't readily obtain decent used 5" 625s for much less than $700 these days. Once in awhile I get lucky and pick one up cheaper, but that's happening less and less all the time. As a point of reference, my distributor cost on a new 4" 625JM, which is the only variation being made now, is $710.44 plus shipping. (They are currently out of stock, interestingly, like pretty much everything else that is shooting-related.)

[Carmoney]

Out of curiosity, I checked gunbroker just now, and there are a couple of 5" 625s with actual bids at $750 and $735 and both of them have time to go. There's a used 4" 625JM that's been bid up to $811.

So there's your real price range right now, fellas. The last couple larger gun shows I've attended, I haven't seen any 5"ers for sale at any price.

[USA-57]

man this just made it harder to choose, i want to thanks you for all the different ideas, when i hunt it is usually with a rifle, and am wanting to try the USPSA/IDPA/ICORE, and i have learned to listen and look, that way i can get a feel for what i am getting in to.

As for trying gun broker, i prefer local just in case i need more help here, and i have one here that i trust. and has been a help in the past.

[Matt Griffin]

Glad I picked them up when I did, then.

H.

[Wideload]

You also did not say what was your budgetary limit in terms of $$$...Just one revo.

If money was not an issue and it is a matter of picking the one revo that can play all these games well, a 4 inch 625 in .45 acp would meet all your requirements for that 'all around gun'.

I am assuming you do have a limit, and further assuming that the 686 that you've been eyeballing is a gently used gun for a reasonable price with a 4 inch barrel. If so, you might be able to justify to your 'powers that be' that you are still UNDER your budget and you should get some reloading gear to keep the ammunition costs in check.

[Haji]

If you're going to compete with it, then SnW is your only choice. Look at the world record holders with revolvers. They're pretty much owned by SnW shooters. Why is that, I hear you ask. Well, I will tell you: the trigger return spring on an SnW is the fastest there is. Jerry Miculek goes so far as to say that he wouldn't have the records he does with any other brand of revolver. Ruger makes an OK gun, but they're heavy for what they are, don't have great triggers, and simply aren't as good a gun as the SnW is.

[Bones]

I am the odd man out here. My recommendation is 4" 686 or a 686-SSR if you want to get fancy.

Have the cylinder cut for moon-clips for USPSA and ICORE, get a few Hearthco moon clips and you can shoot all the games listed (including IDPA SSR with speed loaders) and practice twice as much for the same price. Price 38 Special ammo or components against 45 ACP ammo or components and decide for yourself.

The 686 has a lower initial purchase price than most N-frames. The SSR version will cost you about $100 more. Once you figure in the cost of having the cylinders machined (~$100) it's probably a wash.

I look at consumables costs more than purchase cost. You only buy the gun once, but you feed it forever. For competition use, they are by far the largest cost component to the equation over time. You'll spend saveral times the initial purchase price of the gun if you practise and compete with even moderate frequency. In terms of cost, the 38 Special round beats the 45 ACP handily given the same load criteria. Only IDPA ESR requires 165000 PF - USPSA Revolver, IDPA SSR and ICORE do not. IDPA ESR is also the smallest in terms of absolute numbers of competitors.

You can run anything from 147 gr LWC 38 Special bullseye loads to ICORE 38 Long or Short Colts to IDPA SSR 38 Special +P+ to full house 180 gr JHP 357 S&W Magnums for short range deer hunting through 4" L-frames with no issues.

In the last month, I've shot local USPSA Revolver (minor), ICORE and IDPA (SSR) matches with my 686 SSR last week with the same ammunition and holster - all I did was change loading accessories and front sights (the SSR has interchangeable front sights). For IDPA ESR, I change powder charges - same case and 158 gr bullet - to make 165 PF. It's stiff, but manageable for a few hundred rounds.

Holsters and accessories for L frames are very easy to find just about everywhere. Look around for yourself and compare.

You will not find a more versatile handgun on the planet.

If I could only have 1 handgun for all eternity - it would be a 4" L frame in 357 Magnum, hands down.

Good luck and Welcome.

Craig

Edited April 7, 2009 by Bones

[Bubber]

Thanx Bones, You are not alone in your opinion on the L Frame. . As to needing a Smith N Wesson to be competitive...Well I shoot a Smith and it is a great platform for the competition and easier to get parts, make modifications and the list goes on. It is not the only choice.. If you have not purchased a revo yet. The Smith is great choice but if you have another revo besides Smith you can be competitive. Roger Reid uses a Ruger in ICORE and does well. You don't need moonclips to be competitive shoot what you got and get better, learn what you don't know, teach what you do know to otherss. It will make you a better shooter. Sorry for the drift. But I am old and allowed.. later rdd

[USA-57]

i hope everyone can see why i asked, i am leaning toward the 686, just for the fact if i want to upgrade i then keep my eyes out for a 625, i am hoping to get the boss into it, make it hers, then talk her in to another one. the want is their but the cash is not. i still i hope for more than one.

[jasond]

There's been a good point made about the cost to feed a .45 vs. a .38, and I imagine since that nearly all of us reload, we're just looking at component costs. To buy factory ammo, the difference will be even more. .45 dominates uspsa because of major scoring, but many other games would favor the .38.

The other big plus with a .357 is that it is so versatile. .38 wadcutter is arguably the most accurate pistol cartridge and very soft, .38 round nose is readily available factory and will work for a competition round, .38 short colt handloaded minor is even better, light bullet .357 is one of the most successful defense rounds ever, and heavy bullet .357 will work for hunting or long range shooting.

The trigger stroke on a Ruger is longer and the smoothness is hit or miss. I've done trigger jobs on 3 sp101's, and they were all different. It's a shame, because I feel that the basic design is superior. S&W seems to put more time into fitting the small parts. Colts are expensive and not even built anymore. Taurus is a "price" gun and built for the casual shooter.

Have fun with your new revolver!

[20nickels]

While calculating cost, don't forget about the much higher price of .38/.357 moonclips and the costs of the specific brass you will need to fit them, someone else can explain that better and there are threads-a-plenty on it. In the 625 Ranch moons, $35 per 100, and mixed range brass has worked well for me. FWIW the only local guy that consistently bests me in the revolver divisions shoots a 4" mooned 686.

[Bones]

While calculating cost, don't forget about the much higher price of .38/.357 moonclips and the costs of the specific brass you will need to fit them, someone else can explain that better and there are threads-a-plenty on it. In the 625 Ranch moons, $35 per 100, and mixed range brass has worked well for me. FWIW the only local guy that consistently bests me in the revolver divisions shoots a 4" mooned 686.

You are correct - they are a little more. You can buy the 357/38 Moonclips is 6 or 7 shot varieties from Hearthco for $4 each if you buy 50 or more.

Craig

[pmacb]

Just to be difficult, let me suggest a 4" S&W K-frame 38 Spl. Get a good condition used gun (or maybe even police trade-in) with adjustable sights. With no changes you can use it for plinking, IDPA/ICORE/USPSA or even CCW if you can hide it. Also, the world is still swamped K frame holsters, speed loaders, gunsmiths, etc. Unless you're planning on shooting a ton of hot or magnum loads, you'll never wear out a model 15 (or the stainless version a mod 67) or a 19 (or mod 66).

pmacb