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Blued versus Stainless


dex_games

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Given a choice, say, between a 586 and a 686 (assuming they're the same price, condition, same barrel length, etc.) what would you choose and why?

I've heard that carbon steel barrels are more accurate than stainless... but don't know if there's any truth to this.

Let's narrow it down further by assuming that the gun would be used in competition (IPSC).

Really interested to hear from you guys, thanks in advance!

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I'd go for Stainless for the Corrosion resistance (stuff rusts in my hands).

I've heard some stories about CS being better than SS, but I have never seen any real proof (arent a lot of benchrest barrels stainless?

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First of all, since you are using this for IPSC neither of the guns you listed are "IPSC revos" like a S&W 625 vs 25 that easily make major and are factory full moon clips.

Secondly, stainless steel at the same cost as carbon will not likely take place as stainless costs alot more and is more difficult to machine. Stainless steel in 20 years of no use will still be stainless steel and not rust. Carbon steel, even with good blueing will deteriorate over time.

Thirdly, accuracy is more dependent on your relaoding skills than the modern machining of the internal barrel grooves. I have never heard where stainless steel was inferior as rifles would be the true test at several hundred yards. IPSC pistol is measure in feet and most targets being @ 50 feet and IPSC shooting is fast, barrel accuracy is your least problem. Even if the barrel only is capable of shooting a 6" group at 50 feet, you have lots of A Zone to hit.

BTW, most revos are more accurate than any bottomfeeders and will usually shoot under 1" at 50 feet. The analogy above was exaggerated to show that even a crappy revo will hunt in IPSC competition!

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The cylinder stop notch peening that gives some people problems seems to occcur only on the stainless guns. So I guess for that reason, on a gun that was going to see heavy competition use, I'd pick the blue one (and then maybe hard-chrome it).

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The cylinder stop notch peening that gives some people problems seems to occcur only on the stainless guns. So I guess for that reason, on a gun that was going to see heavy competition use, I'd pick the blue one (and then maybe hard-chrome it).

How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop?

Another reason I like stainless revolvers is that the chargeholes are more visible in different lighting conditions

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How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop?

It's not the cylinder stop that gets peened, it's the notches in the cylinder that get beat up. How about a stainless gun with a carbon steel cylinder. Hard chrome the cylinder to make it easy to see for you. I have seen some model 66's that came with blue cylinders.

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Stainless steel in 20 years of no use will still be stainless steel and not rust. Carbon steel, even with good blueing will deteriorate over time.

Only if not properly cared for. Carbon steel, properly cared for, will still be blued carbon steel in 20 years and I've got a Colt Detective Special from the 70's or 80's to prove it. I've also got a stainless S&W J frame with a bit of pitting picked up back when before I realized in was stainLESS rather than stainNONE steel.

On tightly fitted 1911s a blued gun will stay tighter longer than a stainless one, all things being equal - especially if you let it run dry of lube. 4340 carbon steel is just a bit tougher than 4140. I can't think of an issue in revolvers where this will present the same kind of issue it can in a 1911 though. This qualifies as an "inconvenient truth" since people who like the look and conveneince of stainless find it very convenient to believe that it's just as durable a material.

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Both guns if properly cared for will last a rather long time.

As far as accuracy is concerned... both provided better than acceptable accuracy but any revo I've owned

and used for PPC or Action Pistol used a 1 inch round blank made from stainless steel. All shot 1-1.5 inches at 50

yards.

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I've always liked blued revolvers but sometimes SS is the only choice. Either will work it really comes down to what you like but a blued revolver will last you a lifetime then some if you just give it a little attention along the way.

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How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop?

It's not the cylinder stop that gets peened, it's the notches in the cylinder that get beat up. How about a stainless gun with a carbon steel cylinder. Hard chrome the cylinder to make it easy to see for you. I have seen some model 66's that came with blue cylinders.

Ah yes, I forgot all about that. Good ol'times. I did have a CS break on me once though.

How about a nice: whatever color you can get gun and have it Ion Bonded? ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...
How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop?

It's not the cylinder stop that gets peened, it's the notches in the cylinder that get beat up. How about a stainless gun with a carbon steel cylinder. Hard chrome the cylinder to make it easy to see for you. I have seen some model 66's that came with blue cylinders.

I have a 1961 vintage M29 that has peened notches, another M29-2 that is peened. My 625 is peened. It the weight of the cylinder. I'd like a stainless revolver in a Kydex holster. I'm saving for a TI cylinder.

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University of Florida studies show that Stainless or Nickle guns are perceived as more of a threat than a blued gun by a certain portion of the population.

This from a man who happens to be named LeRoy! :goof::goof::goof:

(Sorry, couldn't resist.....I really should not post when I'm drinking......)

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