dex_games Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Given a choice, say, between a 586 and a 686 (assuming they're the same price, condition, same barrel length, etc.) what would you choose and why? I've heard that carbon steel barrels are more accurate than stainless... but don't know if there's any truth to this. Let's narrow it down further by assuming that the gun would be used in competition (IPSC). Really interested to hear from you guys, thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 I'd go for Stainless for the Corrosion resistance (stuff rusts in my hands). I've heard some stories about CS being better than SS, but I have never seen any real proof (arent a lot of benchrest barrels stainless? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Sahlberg Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 First of all, since you are using this for IPSC neither of the guns you listed are "IPSC revos" like a S&W 625 vs 25 that easily make major and are factory full moon clips. Secondly, stainless steel at the same cost as carbon will not likely take place as stainless costs alot more and is more difficult to machine. Stainless steel in 20 years of no use will still be stainless steel and not rust. Carbon steel, even with good blueing will deteriorate over time. Thirdly, accuracy is more dependent on your relaoding skills than the modern machining of the internal barrel grooves. I have never heard where stainless steel was inferior as rifles would be the true test at several hundred yards. IPSC pistol is measure in feet and most targets being @ 50 feet and IPSC shooting is fast, barrel accuracy is your least problem. Even if the barrel only is capable of shooting a 6" group at 50 feet, you have lots of A Zone to hit. BTW, most revos are more accurate than any bottomfeeders and will usually shoot under 1" at 50 feet. The analogy above was exaggerated to show that even a crappy revo will hunt in IPSC competition! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viggen Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 Spook and Bill cover the territory nicely. If buying I would tend to go SS and the 686 unless the DA trigger on the 586 was unbelievably smooth by comparison - then I would have to ponder things a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooper_999 Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 586 rulez! DVC! Sascha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Viggen Posted November 29, 2007 Share Posted November 29, 2007 586 rulez! DVC! Sascha But that's a really, really nicely set up 586...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dex_games Posted November 30, 2007 Author Share Posted November 30, 2007 586 rulez! DVC! Sascha Haha! Actually, it's your gun that had me thinking on this topic! Your 586 is one wicked wheelgun, Sascha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 The cylinder stop notch peening that gives some people problems seems to occcur only on the stainless guns. So I guess for that reason, on a gun that was going to see heavy competition use, I'd pick the blue one (and then maybe hard-chrome it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 I'm lazy. I like the minimal maintenance of SS guns. But for IPSC (USPSA) I want a titanium cylinder because S&W's alloy/heat treat choice on their SS cylinders sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Blue, like they are supposed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 The cylinder stop notch peening that gives some people problems seems to occcur only on the stainless guns. So I guess for that reason, on a gun that was going to see heavy competition use, I'd pick the blue one (and then maybe hard-chrome it). How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop? Another reason I like stainless revolvers is that the chargeholes are more visible in different lighting conditions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop? It's not the cylinder stop that gets peened, it's the notches in the cylinder that get beat up. How about a stainless gun with a carbon steel cylinder. Hard chrome the cylinder to make it easy to see for you. I have seen some model 66's that came with blue cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Boudrie Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Stainless steel in 20 years of no use will still be stainless steel and not rust. Carbon steel, even with good blueing will deteriorate over time. Only if not properly cared for. Carbon steel, properly cared for, will still be blued carbon steel in 20 years and I've got a Colt Detective Special from the 70's or 80's to prove it. I've also got a stainless S&W J frame with a bit of pitting picked up back when before I realized in was stainLESS rather than stainNONE steel. On tightly fitted 1911s a blued gun will stay tighter longer than a stainless one, all things being equal - especially if you let it run dry of lube. 4340 carbon steel is just a bit tougher than 4140. I can't think of an issue in revolvers where this will present the same kind of issue it can in a 1911 though. This qualifies as an "inconvenient truth" since people who like the look and conveneince of stainless find it very convenient to believe that it's just as durable a material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck D Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 Both guns if properly cared for will last a rather long time. As far as accuracy is concerned... both provided better than acceptable accuracy but any revo I've owned and used for PPC or Action Pistol used a 1 inch round blank made from stainless steel. All shot 1-1.5 inches at 50 yards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted November 30, 2007 Share Posted November 30, 2007 I've always liked blued revolvers but sometimes SS is the only choice. Either will work it really comes down to what you like but a blued revolver will last you a lifetime then some if you just give it a little attention along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop? It's not the cylinder stop that gets peened, it's the notches in the cylinder that get beat up. How about a stainless gun with a carbon steel cylinder. Hard chrome the cylinder to make it easy to see for you. I have seen some model 66's that came with blue cylinders. Ah yes, I forgot all about that. Good ol'times. I did have a CS break on me once though. How about a nice: whatever color you can get gun and have it Ion Bonded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwmagnus Posted December 1, 2007 Share Posted December 1, 2007 I agree with spook the IonBond finish is awesome but I still say a blued finish will hold up great for many years. Get a blued wheelie shoot the crap out of it and it you decide to refinish it then do the IonBond thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earplug Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 How about a SS gun with a CS cylinder stop? It's not the cylinder stop that gets peened, it's the notches in the cylinder that get beat up. How about a stainless gun with a carbon steel cylinder. Hard chrome the cylinder to make it easy to see for you. I have seen some model 66's that came with blue cylinders. I have a 1961 vintage M29 that has peened notches, another M29-2 that is peened. My 625 is peened. It the weight of the cylinder. I'd like a stainless revolver in a Kydex holster. I'm saving for a TI cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcap Magician Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 I just love blued Smith & Wessons... That being said, my J frame is stainless. Stainless is easier to maintain, blue is a pain in the butt to do everyday. My blue guns are for fun, stainless for anything serious. You can always have one of each Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocx Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 Stainless has the edge in the maintenance area but the carbon steel revolvers simply have every other edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 University of Florida studies show that Stainless or Nickle guns are perceived as more of a threat than a blued gun by a certain portion of the population. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S&WIowegan Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 I shoot the hell out of stainless revolvers and have no real gripes. But my first choice is carbon steel and if it's a competition gun it can be hard chromed. The chrome will make it even more durable and cleanable than stainless. Bob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted December 12, 2007 Share Posted December 12, 2007 University of Florida studies show that Stainless or Nickle guns are perceived as more of a threat than a blued gun by a certain portion of the population. This from a man who happens to be named LeRoy! (Sorry, couldn't resist.....I really should not post when I'm drinking......) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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