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Metal Checkering


Skywalker

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Dave

I was not addressing your work at all...I should have made that really clear...the point I was trying to make, and obviously did not do too good a job of it, is that checkering can be good either if it is hand cut or machine cut, if it is done correctly by either method...also that to ME, checkering belongs on the front strap, MSH and maybe the front of the trigger guard...but that is just me....

Let me be very clear..I cannot checker at all...I appreciate the work that others can do when checkering or inletting a sight...I can do neither, and never have inferred or suggested that I can...that is why I have supported a 'smith over the years to the tune of lots of money...but that is my choice...

You do great work, which is obvious from your pictures...I can't post any cause I can't do that kind of thing... :(

Again, I apologize if my comments were misunderstood in any way...

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Personally, I don't have anything against machine checkering.

The fact is that I want to learn how to do this job, and don't happen to have any machine (even if I would love to) since I'm not a pro.

The only way I see I can do it is by hand filing, thus I just bought a couple of files that I thought I would've needed for this job (maybe if I prove successful I'll buy some more).

As I said, I plan to experience a little on scrap metal: I'll post results from my first attempts here, just to get a hint from more experienced people on what I am doing (if it's going towards the right direction or not).

Thanks again.

Edited by Skywalker
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Steel rod works for frontstrap practice.

Yeah, get a piece of .750" barstock from somewhere, something easy to work with 1018 or 1045

Nice tip! :)

I'll look for something similar in metric-land. ;)

Edited by Skywalker
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I'm a bit hesitant to post this, since I'm not anywhere close to the same league as these 'smiths. I'd ask them not to follow the link since it will undoubtedly make them physically ill. :o

This chronicles my first attempt at fly-by-night, do-it-in-the-garage checkering. As one beginner to another, hopefully this will give you some encouragement.

http://grahamcracka.dns2go.com/1911frame/1911frame2.htm

There's also a section a couple of pages further along where I have some photos of checkering a mainspring housing.

Edited by Ken Mays
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  • 1 year later...

Well well well ...

After a year and a half, I finally had the nerve and time to start learning how to checker.

This weekend I took out of the spare parts box an old Wilson beavertail (the one with pad) and decided to try my hand at checkering. I did it totally freehand (no guide tools) with the beavertail pressed into the vice, and this is how it turned out.

post-1869-1205789090.jpg post-1869-1205789099.jpg

25 LPI checkering.

Now, I think I learned some points, and I will definitely try and improve before I turn checkering the frontstrap of my Colt 1911, but I'd like some knowledgeable people have a look at my first try and comment on flaws (I know there are several), possibly pointing me to the right direction to avoid them in the future.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by Skywalker
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looks nice and square, good job;

if you hit that with a little bead blasting, youd be suprised at how finished it would look.

I will say that you have leather palms, doing the grip safety like that!

Im getting better at it too, which actually means I despise the amount of work and detail that goes into it in order for it to be high quality checkering.

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Well well well ...

After a year and a half, I finally had the nerve and time to start learning how to checker.

This weekend I took out of the spare parts box an old Wilson beavertail (the one with pad) and decided to try my hand at checkering. I did it totally freehand (no guide tools) with the beavertail pressed into the vice, and this is how it turned out.

post-1869-1205789090.jpg post-1869-1205789099.jpg

25 LPI checkering.

Now, I think I learned some points, and I will definitely try and improve before I turn checkering the frontstrap of my Colt 1911, but I'd like some knowledgeable people have a look at my first try and comment on flaws (I know there are several), possibly pointing me to the right direction to avoid them in the future.

Thanks in advance.

I am no expert but that looks pretty damn good for a first attempt Skywalker. Good luck with future efforts.

-ld

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  • 2 months later...

All right, I did my first experiment. :)

post-1869-1212128574.jpg post-1869-1212128608.jpg post-1869-1212128844.jpg

I re-shaped and checkered the frontstrap of my stainless steel Colt .45".

It has been done totally by hand filing and sandpaper.

I'd be interested in constructive criticism and general comments, thanks.

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I'd be interested in constructive criticism and general comments, thanks.

Nicely done. I like how you undercut the checkering just below the trigger guard. I've always rounded it from the checkering into the trigger guard but your way looks really neat.

Also noticed that you did well at the bottom of the grip (opening for the mag well). I've seen several checkering jobs where they got carried away and cut through the grip.

Occasionally the finished job ends up with checkering a little sharper than desired. To dull slightly I brush it down a bit with a file card. Doesn't seem to knock down the points but makes the grip a little more comfortable.

Bill

p.s. Once you feel you have it mastered try 20 lpi checkering on a ParaOrdnance front strap without cutting through.

Edited by Flatland Shooter
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Thanks FS. :)

I studied a lot of pics of checkered frontstraps before attempting it, and I have considered rounding the grip below the trigger guard, but I wanted to get the highest possible grip on my gun, similar to what I cut on the plastic grip of my SVI, thus I opted for a squared, high, cut on it.

I will report back after the gun is finished (hey, I hope a home-made complete customization of a plain singlestack will raise my status in the "Singlestack elitist snob club" ... Jay you hear me? :D ) and I have shot it, so I can comment first hand on the effectiveness of such shape.

The magwell opening is where I had to be extra cautious. I saw the metal was real thin there, and I wanted to have all lines square with the opening, thus I hand filed the incomplete diamonds off.

I haven't kept a record of how much time it took me to finish it, but i guess I'm in the 15/20 hrs ballpark.

It took me about 75% of the time to cut the long, vertical lines, then in about half an afternoon I cut the horizontals, and another half afternoon was needed for final dressing.

Of course this has been all done for personal pride and desire to learn, since it's not even remotely time/cost effective ... ;)

Oh, yeah, when I'll be mastering it ... since I have just started with my first attempt, I guess I'll be trying that within a decade or so ... :D

Nice tip BTW, so now I know when my Para shooting teammate will come up asking for the same job on his gun I will politely tell him my backlog is full for the next few years ... :lol:

One last question: I would like to get rid of the different shading that can be seen across the whole pattern: would a bead blasting eliminate it?

Edited by Skywalker
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One last question: I would like to get rid of the different shading that can be seen across the whole pattern: would a bead blasting eliminate it?

Looking at the photos I do not see the shading, (maybe your eyesight is giving out after all that detail work? :rolleyes: ) but I don't think I would hit all that pretty checkering with a bead blaster. It may flatten some of the diamonds in an irregular pattern and then you have a mess.

Depending on finish (blue, ionbond, or hardchrome) it may disappear when complete. Perhaps there is someone out there can shed further light on it.

Bill

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