Dan Sierpina Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 Luca, A small radius under the trigger guard is desired. Even a 1/4" radius is smaller than your finger. You'll want to smooth out the corners on that area also, so, it won't dig into your fingers. 20 lpi was easier to do(had to do with the spacing of the teeth on the checkering file) and will give better grip. Bead blasting won't distort the checkering, but, will even out the shading you mention. I think it took me about 3 hours to do a frontstrap, when I was doing a lot of checkering. Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted May 30, 2008 Author Share Posted May 30, 2008 (edited) Very nice Luca...wish I had your patience and talent... Thanks TL, I appreciate it, but I can safely say I'm not talented, truly, I'm just stubborn ... Luca,A small radius under the trigger guard is desired. Even a 1/4" radius is smaller than your finger. You'll want to smooth out the corners on that area also, so, it won't dig into your fingers. Dan, is the radius desirable to relieve metal stress in the area, since sharp corners are usually the starting place for cracks, or is it only for cosmetics and/or ergonomics? 20 lpi was easier to do(had to do with the spacing of the teeth on the checkering file) and will give better grip. I can guess why 20 lpi is easier to do: larger lines, easier to manage, all in all I figure being the lines larger and deeper, they're more forgiving for slips and errors, but I have tried 20 lpi and it's definitely too coarse for my hands. I prefer the 25 pattern on my hand, it has the traction of grip tape without really pricking my hand like the proverbial fakir's bed. Bead blasting won't distort the checkering, but, will even out the shading you mention. I'll ask a machinist teammate of mine to do it. Any recommendation on the blasting media size or its application? I think it took me about 3 hours to do a frontstrap, when I was doing a lot of checkering. I took me more than 5 times that, I guess this is the difference between an amateur and a professional. Thanks everybody for the (much needed) tips. Edited May 30, 2008 by Skywalker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Dan,is the radius desirable to relieve metal stress in the area, since sharp corners are usually the starting place for cracks, or is it only for cosmetics and/or ergonomics? It will reduce the possibility of a crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Thanks Dan, I'll keep it in mind for the next frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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