bountyhunter Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Any suggestions on how to get built up lead out of a compensator? I recall some kind of ammonia solution talked about. Anybody have good remedies? I've tried Kroil, bore cleaner, Butch's bore shine, oven cleaner, acetone, and the usual suspects. I'd be tempted to fire up a torch and run it out. The comp is stainless, so it should be OK to use something acidic or caustic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 Icepick, , old dental pick, tip of small screwdriver you don't care about and a good bit of elbow grease ;-) DO NOT be tempted to Dremel it out, no matter what your gunsmith tells you ;-0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 9, 2006 Author Share Posted April 9, 2006 I've tried attacking with screwdrivers. It's a large mass of lead that is bonded on like it was torched in place inside the end of the comp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 It "is" torched in place ;-) I have had to actually mount the comp/bbl assembly in my vice with wood blocks and use a small mallet with my little junk screwdriver with a sharpened tip to carve it out like a sculptor does with marble. It ain't a handheld job unless you like your palms bloody ;-/ Once the big hunks are out the ice pick, or dental pick get it out of the crevices and corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 9, 2006 Author Share Posted April 9, 2006 My torch idea is sounding less stupid all the time........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 I tried a torch and got nowhere as far as loosening the lead. I did however manage to loosen the comp that was held on with locktite. Took it back to the smith and had him clean up my mess and the lead deposits and re-blue the whole gun because the heat changed the finish at the muzzle ;-( BTW, I only shoot jacketed in comp guns now ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Boudrie Posted April 9, 2006 Share Posted April 9, 2006 I tried a torch and got nowhere as far as loosening the lead. I did however manage to loosen the comp that was held on with locktite. Took it back to the smith and had him clean up my mess and the lead deposits and re-blue the whole gun because the heat changed the finish at the muzzle ;-(BTW, I only shoot jacketed in comp guns now ;-) Hopefully jacketed rounds without an exposed lead base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 My comp comes off the barrel easily so I can dunk it or flame it without affecting the gun. My comp comes off the barrel easily so I can dunk it or flame it without affecting the gun. Shooting only jacketed ammo isn't possible because this is for a Ruger Mk II (.22) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Hopefully jacketed rounds without an exposed lead base JHP Baby, where the lead points the right way ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rishii Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 a bunch of years ago, I used an outers fowlout II to de-lead my comps. I would chuck the barrel in a vise horizontally,plug both ends and run the rod thru, fill the barrel and comp with the solution. a few hours later, the lead would turn into a black goo that would come out with a q-tip. although the torch idea sounds alot faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skywalker Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 (edited) A buddy of mine dips the compensator of his gun in oxygenated water (120 volumes) for a few seconds, then easily scrubs the lead out of it with a screwdriver. Edited April 10, 2006 by Skywalker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 I seem to remember hearing that peroxide and white vinegar makes a good lead remover in barrels. I'm personally a bit leary of soaking my barrel in something I'm not sure of. Does that ring any bells for anyone else that may have tried it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 YES!!! Hydrogen Peroxide and viniger!! about 50/50 I use apple cider viniger, but I think white viniger might work just as well. Plug it up and let it soak in about 10 minutes it will just wash right out, then be sure to re-oil. I've never seen this hurt a barrel. KURTM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outerlimits Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 not recommended, but liquid merc sill make it disappear.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 10, 2006 Author Share Posted April 10, 2006 YES!!! Hydrogen Peroxide and viniger!! about 50/50 I use apple cider viniger, but I think white viniger might work just as well. Plug it up and let it soak in about 10 minutes it will just wash right out, then be sure to re-oil. I've never seen this hurt a barrel. KURTM Thanks, I am soaking it in vinegar, I'll get some hy per and add that. I thought I remembered something that involved vinegar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bufit323 Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 I've never seen this hurt a barrel. I have seen it first hand in my USP 45 barrel, small pits running the length of the thing. I never let this solution sit in the things for more than a few minutes. I sent my barrel to Bruce Gray (while sendin him a gun) he told me it was safe to shoot, but that solution will essentially remove lead and then some. Seen it with my own eyes. My USP still shoots great, but when I use lead in it, I use a different cleaning method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jody Waring Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 The 50/50 mix of peroxide and vinegar does work, I stand my barrell up in a styrafoam cup to do the comp. After a few minutes, it turns to black sludge that comes right out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJPoLo Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Shooting only jacketed ammo isn't possible because this is for a Ruger Mk II (.22) Cool. Is it the Volquartzen comp? -Chet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 11, 2006 Author Share Posted April 11, 2006 Shooting only jacketed ammo isn't possible because this is for a Ruger Mk II (.22) Cool. Is it the Volquartzen comp? -Chet Yes, it is a Volquartsen comp..... and it packed full of lead faster than you would believe. I am not convinced a comp on a .22 barrel does anything more productive than hang five ounces of weight at the end of the barrel..... but the other guy's Rugers had one, so I had to have one too. For the record, the vinegar/hyd per soluion works the best. It does "sludge up" the surface of the lead and make it easy to scrape off. I will keep at it and I think it will come clean. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam38 Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Yes, half and half works the best! I use it myself. However, in a different thread, I was once warned about the resulting solution. The product of the hydrogen perioxide and vinegar with the lead is a lead acetate sludge - and according to what I was told - which is highly toxic and absorbable through the skin. So dispose of carefully. DVC, Sam Spiteri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 MSDS: Lead Acetate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 12, 2006 Author Share Posted April 12, 2006 Yes, half and half works the best! I use it myself.However, in a different thread, I was once warned about the resulting solution. The product of the hydrogen perioxide and vinegar with the lead is a lead acetate sludge - and according to what I was told - which is highly toxic and absorbable through the skin. So dispose of carefully. DVC, Sam Spiteri I washed my hands right after scraping. It was on my skin less than a couple of minutes. Flushed it down the sink.... then set the frozen chicken in the sink to thaw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 13, 2006 Author Share Posted April 13, 2006 Final report: after a week of soaking/scraping with a popsicle stick/soaking the lead is gone. Very easy fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
21 shooter Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 A gunsmith told me to soak my 686 cylinder in a product called "orange blast", which is available at wally world and other places. I let it soak over night, and everything just wiped off the cylinder and cylinder face. I shoot cast bullets with Titegroup, and things get nasty real quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 A gunsmith told me to soak my 686 cylinder in a product called "orange blast", which is available at wally world and other places. I let it soak over night, and everything just wiped off the cylinder and cylinder face. I shoot cast bullets with Titegroup, and things get nasty real quick. I wonder if it's like the SLIP 2000 orange cleaner they sell for gun cleaning. Tried it, and it wouldn't take off the burned on carbon, just the loose stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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