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610 In Competition?


Bruce

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Those who run the 610, that I know personally, run 40's. I have not heard of anyone using a 610 who used the 10's in competitiona. The reloads are easier with the 40's

The 180 grain RN by Billy Bullets in AZ is a molly bullet for the revo and I think Zero has a RN too, if you prefer jacketed.

Edited by Viggen
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I'm running a 610, love it. I shoot 40's because 10mm rounds close in too much when you grab a moon clip. The 40's don't. I had Clymer make a cylinder deleading reamer to help get rid of any lead buildup.

I'm currently using 200 round nose flat point moly coated bullets from Precision. More velocity than jacketed, less smoke than waxed lead. Clays powder, federal primers (of course) makes for a sweet load.

http://www.precisionbullets.com/

Tell Dave Glenn sent ya. Ask him about the 220gr RNFP's. I'm going to try them if he'll ever get some out.

Edited by haras
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I used one for years in the Sportsman's Team Challenge = Bank of ten 4" steel targets at 35 yards. The gun was perfect with 40 cal and 180 gr bullets. my gun liked RP brass the best. If you plan to use the brass in an Auto and the same brass in the revolver your groups will get big. Teh Auto seams to harden the brass. Or at least my guns did not play nice with the same brass.

Jamie

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I too shoot a 610 in competition. I have the 610 classic that I'm having D.Carden smooth up the trigger on. I too shoot 40's in mine. Currently minor 180 RNFP Plated loaded to minor from West Coast soon switching over to a 140 Moly coated Round Nose from Bear creek if I can get them to shoot, otherwise I may try a 200 or 220 rnfp from West Coast (I still have 500 of the 220's to play with). Dan is also chamfering the cylinder for me. Can hardly wait to get it back. I used once fired Nickel plated brass that I only use in the 610.

Vince

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I shoot ICORE and occasionally USPSA revolver with my 4" 610. I prefer a major PF .40 load with Zero 180 JHP, 4.7 grains of VV N320, Fed. GM100M primers, and Starline brass OAL 1.150. You will find that the .40 is easier to manipulate and extracts more quickly while on the clock.

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I'm running a 610, love it. I shoot 40's because 10mm rounds close in too much when you grab a moon clip. The 40's don't. I had Clymer make a cylinder deleading reamer to help get rid of any lead buildup.

I'm currently using 200 round nose flat point moly coated bullets from Precision. More velocity than jacketed, less smoke than waxed lead. Clays powder, federal primers (of course) makes for a sweet load.

http://www.precisionbullets.com/

Tell Dave Glenn sent ya. Ask him about the 220gr RNFP's. I'm going to try them if he'll ever get some out.

What barrel length are you shooting? Fluted or non-fluted cylinder?

Thanks,

Angryreb

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I hope to be shooting one soon, as soon as I get done slicing some weight off the barrel.

I'm slimming down a 6.5 inch 610 classic barrel and I fluted my cylinder with a .5inch ball

end mill. The fluting made a huge diff in the feel, I'm with Angry Reb for a Ti 610 cylinder.

(And ya know ... like a boob I never weighed the gun before I started ctting :( )

Anyways, I figure as soon as I get my 610 running the rules will change :D

As far as ammo, I've had nothing but trouble with 40 WIn brass in 2 610's, and old version

and now my newer Classic (frame mtd fire pin vs. hammer mtd pin) I get light hits with the

40 win loads (fed primed) but 100% with 10mm loads. I wrote this up long ago in this forum

and it only seems to be happening to me.

I don't have a problem with reloads between 40 and 10mm but then again I'm an old pin

shooter and used to use the 610 for 8 pin :) (those were the days !)

I do notice that there is a wide variation in 10mm and 40 brass in the moonclips, Win brass

is pretty good in the Brownells/Scheer (sp) clips, FC not so good.

Dave Hearthco sent me a sample of his 10mm clip and it is the cat's meow :lol:

He posted earlier that he has a revamped one out too. They are the best and with the one

clip I have I don't miss a practice reload that often. If I get serious with this gun I might

have to bite the bullet and buy a few :o .

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I hope to be shooting one soon, as soon as I get done slicing some weight off the barrel.

I'm slimming down a 6.5 inch 610 classic barrel and I fluted my cylinder with a .5inch ball

end mill. The fluting made a huge diff in the feel, I'm with Angry Reb for a Ti 610 cylinder.

(And ya know ... like a boob I never weighed the gun before I started ctting :( )

Anyways, I figure as soon as I get my 610 running the rules will change :D

As far as ammo, I've had nothing but trouble with 40 WIn brass in 2 610's, and old version

and now my newer Classic (frame mtd fire pin vs. hammer mtd pin) I get light hits with the

40 win loads (fed primed) but 100% with 10mm loads. I wrote this up long ago in this forum

and it only seems to be happening to me.

I don't have a problem with reloads between 40 and 10mm but then again I'm an old pin

shooter and used to use the 610 for 8 pin :) (those were the days !)

I do notice that there is a wide variation in 10mm and 40 brass in the moonclips, Win brass

is pretty good in the Brownells/Scheer (sp) clips, FC not so good.

Dave Hearthco sent me a sample of his 10mm clip and it is the cat's meow :lol:

He posted earlier that he has a revamped one out too. They are the best and with the one

clip I have I don't miss a practice reload that often. If I get serious with this gun I might

have to bite the bullet and buy a few :o .

I have been shooting 610 solid for 2.25 years as a primary gun

rimz is a plastic moon clip that holds my 40s firm and staight

180 gr BERRYS plated rn bullet seems to be the fastest reloader for me

last summer was my first USPSA shooting I started IDPA shooting

I shoot a 4 inch barrel like the balance still have a bull cylinder but have been looking

to get it fluted.

I have also found that the older series with the hammer mounted firing

pins do not accept the type 2 springs or the MICULEK springs from Brownells

as well as the new frame mounted firing pin models.

Good luck shoot fast Cheetah!

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What barrel length are you shooting? Fluted or non-fluted cylinder?

Thanks,

Angryreb

now - 6.5" fluted cylinder :wub:

I have also found that the older series with the hammer mounted firing

pins do not accept the type 2 springs or the MICULEK springs from Brownells

as well as the new frame mounted firing pin models.

Black Magic springs work fine in my 1st series. Skipped Jerry's springs. :ph34r:

Edited by haras
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I started USPSA a few years ago with the only revolver I had at the time, a 610 5" fluted cylinder. I bobbed the hammer, chamfered the cylinder, installed a F/O front sight, did a simple action job and used 180 grain RN Billy molies in 40 S&W brass. It took me a long way and would have taken me as far as I'm capable of. I retired it about a year ago for a 625. The reason? I developed a disease called 'gotta have another revolver'. I have been told there is no known cure and it's very common in the revolver world. ;)

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I hope to be shooting one soon, as soon as I get done slicing some weight off the barrel.

I'm slimming down a 6.5 inch 610 classic barrel and I fluted my cylinder with a .5inch ball

end mill. The fluting made a huge diff in the feel, I'm with Angry Reb for a Ti 610 cylinder.

(And ya know ... like a boob I never weighed the gun before I started ctting :( )

Anyways, I figure as soon as I get my 610 running the rules will change :D

PICTURES of you your home fluted cylinder, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!

As far as ammo, I've had nothing but trouble with 40 WIn brass in 2 610's, and old version

and now my newer Classic (frame mtd fire pin vs. hammer mtd pin) I get light hits with the

40 win loads (fed primed) but 100% with 10mm loads. I wrote this up long ago in this forum

and it only seems to be happening to me.

I don't have a problem with reloads between 40 and 10mm but then again I'm an old pin

shooter and used to use the 610 for 8 pin :) (those were the days !)

I do notice that there is a wide variation in 10mm and 40 brass in the moonclips, Win brass

is pretty good in the Brownells/Scheer (sp) clips, FC not so good.

Dave Hearthco sent me a sample of his 10mm clip and it is the cat's meow :lol:

He posted earlier that he has a revamped one out too. They are the best and with the one

clip I have I don't miss a practice reload that often. If I get serious with this gun I might

have to bite the bullet and buy a few :o .

Edited by ANGRYREB
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PICTURES of you your home fluted cylinder, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dang Reb, I knew I forgot something, just borrowed PMD's dig camera to take some pic's

and didn't take one of the 610 cylinder :angry:

here's one of the re-contoured barrel (I did remember that) I still have a lot of smoothing

out to do, a machinist I am not. Basicly just a stk 610 brl with cuts like the PC 627's, I like

the way it points so far, not so muzzle heavy.

I'll get a camera again after I get it all done.

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I just got a 610 back in September of 2005. I have a 6.5 inch fluted 610 (no dash and #). I have been loading Berry's 180 RN over either 5.4 grains of N340, fed match primers and OAL of 1.140. I working up a load using N320 but missed the mark on my last range session. With 4.5 grains of N320 I was only making high 150's. I figure its going to take 4.7 or 4.8 grains to make major at the 1.140 OAL.

I have shot two USPSA matches with it this winter and love it. I think it will get even more fun when we get back outside and can move more.

mcb

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I shot a 6.5 inch boat anchor of a pig classic 610 for a season. I had a good action job done and the charge holes chamfered. Other than that, it was pretty much stock. I used a 200 grain RNFP lead bullet. The exact load escapes me right now. I think a 25 or 625 is a bit easier to reload, but the 610 served me well.

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PICTURES of you your home fluted cylinder, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dang Reb, I knew I forgot something, just borrowed PMD's dig camera to take some pic's

and didn't take one of the 610 cylinder :angry:

here's one of the re-contoured barrel (I did remember that) I still have a lot of smoothing

out to do, a machinist I am not. Basicly just a stk 610 brl with cuts like the PC 627's, I like

the way it points so far, not so muzzle heavy.

I'll get a camera again after I get it all done.

10mmdave,

That looks amazing :o:o:o:o:o

Keep the pictures coming as you go. Now the big question. Is it going to be USPSA legal?

Thanks for the pictures of you project.

Angryreb

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I'll get a camera again after I get it all done.

You guys are too kind, the picture does not show the rough scaling from not using cutting fluid,

or the off center part at the bottom (not sure if that was me or S&W !)

I sanded and smoothed out area's last night and then looked at my other compitition guns

and said "what the hell do I care", none of my guns are pretty :) so I continued to remove

any sharp edges and that's it.

I really like the feel of it, I think it might even be a little less muzzle heavy than a 25-2.

And as far as being legal, right now the USPSA book says you can't add weight to

the gun, but you can replace stock barrels with custom barrels (we talked about this

before here on BE) so for now I think I'm all set. And being a 610 I'm not going to be that

competitive anyway (tongue firmly in cheek :lol: )

hdgun, I'll let you try it, I even have another 6.5 inch barrel to cut up :D

OH...hdgun, I have 180, 200 and 220 Westcoast plated bullets for us to try.

So thanks for the props guys but really, if you see up close you won't be impressed.

I'll get pics of it when it's all cleaned up and fully assembled, the cylinder's nothing to look

at either (although it did come out better than the barrel)

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