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Shoepop

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Everything posted by Shoepop

  1. As you are aware either .355 or .356, 115 & 125's are fine. The deciding factor for YOU should be what shoots best in YOUR pistol and which impulse you prefer.
  2. 180's for ME, like some posters said anything over 180 seems sluggish anything less to snappy, but then again some like snappy so it comes down to what are you more comfortable and shoot better with.
  3. I'm a right hand shooter left eye dominant. I move whatever I'm shooting to the left eye and keep them both open.
  4. hop, I just stuck in the cylinder to see if would fit because of all the talk about oversize throats in a lot of original 25-2 cylinders. I never actually fitted it but it look's like a regular 625 cylinder with correct throat could be fitted W/O to much trouble. I was just curious and playing around.
  5. I just gave a quick 'eyeball' side by side with my 25-2 and a titanium cylinder I had laying around and they look CLOSE. I also have some steel 625's I will dig out. Just for the hey of it I will measure and see. Since my 25-2 shoots fine it will be for FYI as well as mine.
  6. Well, I must have lucked out (for a change). This one shoots lead and jacketed as well as my 625-8 PC or 625-8 4". I looked at the front sight under magnifier's last night and I sure can't see where it's pinned. I can remedy that on my mill in short order. I also measured throats .456. Thanks all.
  7. I preformed a search and found one reference to 6" barrel 25-2 but nothing definitive. Everything refers to 6 1/2". The front sight is integral with the barrel and it has target trigger and hammer.
  8. I had a bad experience with Peltor, a warranty related problem on a 1 month old set of muff's. In my case VERY POOR customer service so I now run Dillon's.
  9. Charlie, if you find one in your area be leery of promised repair time. Some smiths are well intentioned, tend to be optimistic but in reality, well you know. I have sent 4 S&W revolvers in for repair for customers in the past 2 months. Yes, they will tell you 6+ weeks, seems like a CYA time but in all 4 instances I received them back in less that 3. The last two they even provided a UPS prepaid shipping label (without me asking) these were for 20 year old revolvers. So S&W may be the way to go.
  10. It depend's on what you want the load to do. If your looking for maximum controllability, a nice smooth ride then use the 147 grain JHP's, They will turn the pumpkin into pie filling very nicely. Powder,3.3 grains of titegroup, 942 FPS out of an MP5. If you want to hose and just make nice round .355 hole's use any of the above data.
  11. I have received JHP's from two major bullet manufactures that have had walnut media in the HP cavity from the factory. I would roughly estimate 2 per 100. I tumble 5 minutes with course walnut after loading no problems.
  12. Well, how much would you save ordering from their catalog and then having to pay shipping?
  13. Load longer, or send back to Para for repair. We had a shooter @ a match last weekend with a P-16, same problem, bullet nose jambed into feed ramp. He was shooting Winchester 180 white box and said he had same problem with Fiocchi. He had FTF every 6th or so rounds. After the match we loaded up all his mags with my reloads, 180 Zero JHP's, 1.180 OAL and he ran through 4 magazines as fast as he could pull the trigger and change mags with 0 malfunctions. Since he does not reload he sent the pistol back to Para. You are loading @ an OAL that should feed. S.A.A.M.I. spec's are min=1.085 max=1.135
  14. We all need friends like JR. John as a favor picked up a batch of bullets for me in Arizona after he shot a match there. On his way home he phoned me to meet him at the turn off to his house 50 miles away from mine. Unfortunately I was not home when he phoned and missed the call. Most people would have went home as it was already late afternoon and I'm sure John was very tired. John drove 100 + miles out of his way after a LONG day and 300 miles already behind him to deliver the bullets to me at my house. I wish I had more friends like John, many more. Some may think this does not merit a post, I do. If you read this John thank you very much. I hope I did not embarrass you. If I did, tough Mark in NM
  15. Welcome to the 'dark side'. You sure will learn about time management, course strategy as well as shot management. The first time you miss one shot on a Texas star with activator you will know what I mean. There is a LOT of knowledge on this forum and they will all be more than happy to share it with you.
  16. I own a 38 super Trojan and only problem was the frame had what appeared to be casting imperfections 'small holes', two of them. I phoned STI and inquired and they confirmed the lower was indeed cast. I could have sent it back but since I ordered it hard chromed and did not want to wait two months for replacement I decided to keep the pistol. I did have them send me a new extractor which was hard chromed with the rest of the pistol which is a no no. I don't know if they still have their Trojan frames cast or now use forged. Since it was cast I assumed the frame was out sourced. Mine is about 3+ years old and runs 100%.
  17. Thank you Dave. I never had a 6 1/2 inch first run fluted in my shop and have never seen or heard of one until now so I'm obviously not up to speed on 610 variants and still learning. Strange thing, last week I had 3, 5" fluted 610's in my shop, 2 were customers and one is mine. Of the two customer 610's one was local the other 60 miles from my shop. It was 5" 610 week for some reason. I did own a 6 1/2" with a hunter cylinder but thought it to heavy. I sold it to a gentleman in AZ a few years ago and he kicked my butt with it in an AZ USPSA match, right Rudy I also had a Lew Horton commissioned 3" that I 'gave' away a year or so ago. Oh well.
  18. I 'thought' I was pretty much up to speed on 610 variations. This is the first I have seen or heard of a 6 1/2" fluted cylinder. A cylinder or barrel change maybe, or did S&W make such a configuration for sale to the general public ?
  19. JR, are your 160 bullets sized .357 or .358? I have tried both and my 627 likes the .357. Last time I ordered Rudy and I spoke about size. From what I gather some 38S shooters use the .358's. In my experience VV powder varies lot to lot a BUNCH which may explain velocity difference. Mark
  20. I envisioned something technical. That was EASY. Thank you sir.
  21. I went to the original post on the modification and I'm stuck at "remove the plastic that will fill the holes where the rounds fit" I have one apart and understand everything else. Can anyone help me out with an explanation that would help me figure it out?
  22. I do in a 627-4 for L-10. My load is 5.5 grains VV3N37, R&P brass, Fed primer and 160grain RN Billy moly coated bullet. This makes 167.3 PF out of 'MY' revolver. It is a redline load as indicated by primers but I have never 'blown' one or split a case. I discard after 5 reloadings. Extraction is normal, preceived recoil seems a BIT milder than my 45ACP load which is 4 grains of Clays over a 230 RN Billy, 168.5 PF. Since you are just "curious" I strongly suggest if your thinking about major PF you work up your own load for your particular revolver using a chronograph and start 20% low on the powder weight. I have also used VV340 but it was to fast in my revolver but I shoot with someone who uses it in his 627-4 and it works very well for him although I don't REALLY know what his PF is.
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