Do You Reload For Rifle Or Buy Factory Ammo?

[PistolPete]

I'm going to order a JP Rifle and am just debating if I should reload for .223 or just buy factory ammo. I know I won't be shooting tens of thousands of rounds a year with this gun so I was just curious if I should just buy "good" factory ammo or get another caliber conversion for my 650 and all the components. What do you recommend?

[TCK]

I buy LakeCity by the case localy for $199.00

[JFD]

I reload for my hardly used AR.

I don't know what's normal accuracy out of a 16" Bushmaster, but with sierra or hornady 69 match bullets mine will shoot 2.625" groups at 300 yards off a bench. Factory ammo gives me twice the group size at least.

[John Dunn]

Both. Tend to use XM193 or PMP for blasting, reloads for precision stuff.

[straightshooter1]

I think it depends a lot on the individual shooter. For example, one who doesn't shoot hundreds of rounds or more in a month or so, who has enough disposable income to afford the factory stuff and who isn't looking for the smallest group possible can use factory ammo and be happy with the results. No time "wasted" cleaning brass, depriming, deburring flash-holes, reaming primer pockets, trimming (yuck!) working up loads, etc.

On the other hand, I want the smallest group I can get. Plus, I load a lot of rifle calibers. So, I do the work on the cases, and have spent the time working up the loads (or borrowing them from more experienced shooters) and I enjoy the reloading part. I do hate, with a passion, trimming those cases, even though I now have three Dillon trimmers, one dedicated to 30'06, one to 223 and the third for the remainder of the cartidges.

I really don't fool myself about the big money savings. I used to only buy Sierra Matchking Bullets, and with about 18 Caliber conversions for my 550, the three trimmers, two tumblers, bazillions of cases, CCI match primers, etc., I know I have some real bucks invested in this hobby.

I did, recently, come to the realization that there is a cheaper way to load the bigger cartridges. 16 grains of 2400 or 13 grains of RedDot and just about any decent cast or jacketed bullet will give me an inch or better at 100 yards from my 03 Springfield or 03A1.

I bought all the 173 grain GI match 30s I could find and am sorry they are now, apparently, extinct. These "reduced loads" have been around for quite some time, but, as usual, I was a bit behind the curve in trying them.

And, of course, I am thinking about another trimmer-maybe a Giraud.

If I was starting over, I'd still reload, just maybe for less cartridges and probably with a 1050.

Bob

[Rob Boudrie]

Pete - For the kind of ranges you'll find at your home club (Harvard, MA), the 55gr will do nicely. JP likes the Federal, and tells me that they have found the American Eagle to be a bit more accurate and not requiring as hard a primer hit as the XM193.

For telephone company distances ("long distance is the next best thing to being there"), you may want a heavier bullet. If you go up to the 77gr, the 1/8 twist rather than the 1/9 becomes the recommended barrel.

There is not much economy in trying to duplicate a load like XM193 or American Eagle 55gr. Reloading has a greater payback when you get into the heavier match bullets.

Rob

Edited February 2, 2006 by Rob Boudrie

[ima45dv8]

I used to purchase either Lake City or S. African mil surplus, but the SA stuff dried up. Lately I grown very fond of the new(ish) polymer-coated Wolf ammo (I hated the lacquer-coated variety). Very accurate, makes power factor in my 16", and feeds and extracts very well.

[Singlestack]

You should give the Georgia Arms canned heat a try Mark. I really like it.

Georgia Arms

[Dan Sierpina]

I'm going to order a JP Rifle and am just debating if I should reload for .223 or just buy factory ammo. I know I won't be shooting tens of thousands of rounds a year with this gun so I was just curious if I should just buy "good" factory ammo or get another caliber conversion for my 650 and all the components. What do you recommend?

Pete,

I do my own loading. I'm in the habit of it from pistol,and from highpower shooting. Even for USPSA matches I'd rather load for smaller groups. Although, I do still have some Black Hills Shooter Supply 52 grain BTHP loads. Those are the accuracy standard for some people.

[ima45dv8]

You should give the Georgia Arms canned heat a try Mark. I really like it.

Georgia Arms

Thanks, John. I'll save that for when I run low again. I bought 2k of the 9MM 147 gn loads and was very pleased.

[Carlos]

Factory FMJ Boat Tail; 55 grn from Federal. Even goes off with the light trigger springs. For indoor use (25 yard 3gun competition) I use Wolf. Even Wolf shoots under an inch at 25 yards.

[straightshooter1]

Reading and enjoying this thread it seems to me maybe the real answer is more dependent on the distance at which you will be doing most of your shooting.

JFD, for example, noted his great groups at 300 yards. My response was based on my shooting, most all at 100 yards with my RRA A4 National Match they just built for me. Many of the other posters talked about 25 yards.

At 25 yards, cheap, reliable ammo would probably be the smart way to go. My favorite gunshop sells lots of that type, Remington, Wolf, etc. and it seems most is about $3.99 per box. Case lots are much cheaper.

Seems that it is kind of a math thing-how much is your time worth to reload plus the cost of the equipment, and the supplies versus $3.99 or less per 20 at the shop.

But if you start shooting at longer distance, I've not seen anything that beats good handloads. Federal Gold Medal is good, I've not had a chance to try BlackHills, but good handloads are better.

[blackdragon]

Factory for blasting

I like black hills or the PMC old stuff 62GR !

Ivan

[PistolPete]

So what's involved in reloading for rifle? I have a Dillon 650 and I do change calibers. What exactly is involved with loading rifle rounds?

I will obviously need new dies, conversion kit, powder measure etc.

Then a new shell plate for the case feeder

will I need to get a deburring tool?

What else will I need?

Aren't rifle cases more sensitive to brass stretching? I'll prob. just reload for rifle as well but will need to get all my supplies.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Pete

[ricciardelli]

I'm going to order a JP Rifle and am just debating if I should reload for .223 or just buy factory ammo. I know I won't be shooting tens of thousands of rounds a year with this gun so I was just curious if I should just buy "good" factory ammo or get another caliber conversion for my 650 and all the components. What do you recommend?

What is "factory ammo"?

[n2ipsc]

So what's involved in reloading for rifle? I have a Dillon 650 and I do change calibers. What exactly is involved with loading rifle rounds?

I will obviously need new dies, conversion kit, powder measure etc.

Then a new shell plate for the case feeder

will I need to get a deburring tool?

What else will I need?

Aren't rifle cases more sensitive to brass stretching? I'll prob. just reload for rifle as well but will need to get all my supplies.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Pete

I'd suggest you add to your shopping list...

• Headspace gauge (for setting your sizing die or dies - L.E. Wilson makes nice ones)
  
• Case trimmer (for large quantities of .223 or .308, nothing, IMHO, beats the Dillon power unit...Lyman makes a nice unit as well...)
  
• Case mouth de-burring tool (with adapter for your power drill)
  
• Small-base sizing die(s) (if you're feeding them through your autos)
  
• JP chamber checkers for your match ammo
  
• Good dial calipers
  
• (optional, but nice) Redding competition seating die(s)
  

[oddjob]

I use factory stuff. From 0-200 yds I use 55 grn W-W from Wal Mart or Norinco 55 grn ammo. The Norinco is HOT, but runs great in my gun. Accurate too. At 300 yds I use the W-W 64grn stuff. I write all this info down on a 3x5" card and tapei it to my stock. I was gonna reload, but a friend of mine took a class from Voigt & he suggetsed just use factory stuff (Wal Mart ammo I believe). Easier to get that kind of ammo if you travel.

I'm going to give "heavy metal" class (M1A .308) a try this year & that seems to be a class where reloading might be a "must" at long distance.

[3GunF1Guy]

The problem with factory ammo is that you never know what it is, or if they changed it last week. I like the peace of mind that comes with knowing that the ammo that I load in the gun will run today and next year. I know exactly where it shoot and I can count on it year to year. I practice with it and I shoot it at all of the matches that I go to. It can be counted on 100%. I know where it shoots at 100 yds and at 600 yds and I know that it wont change because "they found a better deal" on powder or whatever.

Scott

[blackdragon]

Factory= Anything that is "Cheap"! Out to 200-300 yds ? Who cares!" It's IPSC"

Ivan

[bpowe]

It's kind of a balance between the results you want and the money you want to spend. Prices listed are approximate! For close range stuff: Wolf factory @ about $125.00/1000

The cheapest components we found for close range stuff:

Brass (Starch preped) - $50/1000

bullets, pulled 55g fmj - $25/1000

Primers, Win SR - $17/1000

WC 844 $6.25/lb - $22/1000

Total - $114/1000 Not hardly worth it unless you get your brass really cheap and process it yourself. We buy ours for $0.01/ea and don't count our time.

For high end/long range ammo, everything changes! Blackhills is probably the cheapest at around $50/100 for 69gr SMK loads.

Brass - $50/1000

bullets 69g SMK - $125/1000

powder, Varget $125/lb - $55/1000

Primers, Win SR - $17/1000

Total - $247/1000 Significant savings!

Bill

[open17]

Winchester Q3131A for match ammo, Black Hills blue box 50gr v-max for critters. Either

will stay inside an inch at 100yds, and both shoot to the same point of aim.

[BigDave]

I think we kicked this around a time or two - just for 55 gr ball type loads, you're almost looking at even $$$ compared to factory loads (Win White Box and similar). I'll second the recommendation for polymer coated Wolf for short ranges (maybe even out to 100 yds). It is certainly accurate enough, so long as it feeds, fires and extracts in your gun.

But, when talking about high-zoot ammo (Sierra, Hornady, Nosler heads), the cost savings of rolling your own is significant - $100-$300/1000.

[wsimpso1]

I am another one that thinks that handloading is for accuracy and consistency. Where you need it, handload with good bullets and known loads. I know exactly where my 69 SMK and 77 SMK loads shoot, and above 200 yards, that matters. Below 200 yards, buying ammo by the thousand is tough to beat.

Even for short range, I still handload because, well, I like moly on my bullets for distance. If the match has short and long, you want stick powders and all naked or all moly through the bore from the last cleaning. Going back and forth (powder and bullets) does change point of impact and group size. And don't get me started on Ball powder... So I moly my 55's and shoot IMR 4895 behind them, then use factory moly 69's or 77's with my favorite loads from High Power behind them.

But if all you shoot is 100 yards on standard IPSC targets, factory works fine. Oh, and if you are blasting with LC or Win ammo, collect your once-fireds and make them gifts to your handloading buddies.

Billski

[kim schioldan]

I'm going to order a JP Rifle and am just debating if I should reload for .223 or just buy factory ammo. I know I won't be shooting tens of thousands of rounds a year with this gun so I was just curious if I should just buy "good" factory ammo or get another caliber conversion for my 650 and all the components. What do you recommend?

for practice burning in the ground ammo i use anything cheap like Wolf or Armscor, but for match i load , Remington brass, CCI primers, and Sierra 55g Blitzking, they are unbeleivable accurate!

[Merlin Orr]

factory.