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Help: Open Gun accuracy issues.


SufferInSilence

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@shred @NorthwestGuy Yeah I ordered the Atlas mount.  Going to throw a spare Romeo Pro I have laying around.  Bring the gun into the 2020s ya know!? 

So many rookies in the game these days, when I show up with a side mounted C-more dudes are like whoa… what the hell is that! Haha. 
 

 

 

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2 hours ago, NorthwestGuy said:

Yes, I loved the large glass on the C-More, but sideways always felt and looked weird, plus adjustments were not simple. It did the job of lowering the window.

@NorthwestGuy yeah I’m gonna miss that nice low height over bore action of the side mount.  My Cmore even had the side flat topped to be a smidge lower.  
But yeah time to move on.  
 

I’ll be posting the aluminum Cmore on market place soon if anyone is interested.  

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Well… my dang Atlas mount came in today and it’s no good!! 
- The mounting holes in my frame are bigger than the Atlas screws.  

*and*

- Even though the Delta Point Pro and Romeo 1 Pro are “supposed” to share the same footprint, it’s not a match on this mount.  

- And I’d have to switch back to a Nitro Fin vs the Atlas Thumb Rest for even the correct mount to work.  (The lesser issues cause I secretly like the nitro fin more).  
 

At this point I’d just rather put the Cmore back on if I could find the right mount.  

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From the picture on the previous page, I am assuming that your old mount was either the Quinn 3 or the later DAA version of that mount. The default screw was M4 which is a larger screw than the US standard 5-40(?) and also the counter sink is 90 degrees vs the 82 (?) degree on the ANSI part. 

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@ChuckS yeah idk.  Here’s a close up pic of the old mount.  At this point, if anyone has one to part with I’d just go that route.  
 
But you’re right, it looks like M4s vs whatever everyone else seems to be using.  I don’t suppose there’s anything wrong with widening the smaller holes on a newer style mount and still using the M4s and red locktite that sucker into the next decade…? 
 

otherwise it would seem like my other option is just to scrap the frame and start with a new one.  (Less optimal for a division I never really 1ADC3F93-9A8E-49C5-A96F-D7BCC09EF158.thumb.jpeg.d0479df32d60160abc3ae880bd2fb34e.jpegshoot).   

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4 hours ago, SufferInSilence said:

@ChuckS yeah idk.  Here’s a close up pic of the old mount.  At this point, if anyone has one to part with I’d just go that route.  
 
But you’re right, it looks like M4s vs whatever everyone else seems to be using.  I don’t suppose there’s anything wrong with widening the smaller holes on a newer style mount and still using the M4s and red locktite that sucker into the next decade…? 
 

otherwise it would seem like my other option is just to scrap the frame and start with a new one.  (Less optimal for a division I never really 1ADC3F93-9A8E-49C5-A96F-D7BCC09EF158.thumb.jpeg.d0479df32d60160abc3ae880bd2fb34e.jpegshoot).   

It would probably be good if you could get someone to put a 90 degree countersink as well as opening the holes. That way the screws would seat properly. 

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I've modified stripped out frame holes & mounts from #6 to M4 before, so it would work, although ideally you'd want to fix the countersink too as mentioned (assuming you have a way to deal with the footprint).  The next imperial size up is #8 if you wanted to convert from metric, but I don't like that option as much as keeping the M4s if you can.

 

 

 

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@shred 

A buddy of mine at the Sunday match just happened to have a spare delta point pro in his car.  He let me take it.  

So I put the atlas on the drill press and opened the holes up to take the #8s.  Bought new #8 screws and cut them to size.  
 

I didn’t mess with the counter sink because with five 8s holding it in place with red locktite, it seems pretty locked in.  
 

Sighted in this morning and ran a few stages. Runs great! 
The DPP he gave me is a 7.5 yellow triangle so… that’s gonna take some getting used to.  Haha.  

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2 hours ago, SufferInSilence said:

@shred 

A buddy of mine at the Sunday match just happened to have a spare delta point pro in his car.  He let me take it.  

So I put the atlas on the drill press and opened the holes up to take the #8s.  Bought new #8 screws and cut them to size.  
 

I didn’t mess with the counter sink because with five 8s holding it in place with red locktite, it seems pretty locked in.  
 

Sighted in this morning and ran a few stages. Runs great! 
The DPP he gave me is a 7.5 yellow triangle so… that’s gonna take some getting used to.  Haha.  

Did you retap the frame holes to #8-32 (I'd guess.. maybe -38 or -40) or were they that already?

 

 

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@shred it was already 8-32 from back when the DAA/Quin mount was used.  I guess that was the spec back then.  
Now nobody is using 8-32. 
 

So I had to widen the mount and cut some stainless 8-32 bolts from Lowe’s to work without buying a new frame and starting over.   
 

*NOTE* the old style STI frames are more narrow.   The Atlas had an option for a shim that accounts for that difference.  

 

All in all, $90 to fix the issue (and someone bought the Cmore for $150) ain’t bad.  

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21 hours ago, SufferInSilence said:

@shred it was already 8-32 from back when the DAA/Quin mount was used.  I guess that was the spec back then.  
Now nobody is using 8-32. 
 

So I had to widen the mount and cut some stainless 8-32 bolts from Lowe’s to work without buying a new frame and starting over.   
 

*NOTE* the old style STI frames are more narrow.   The Atlas had an option for a shim that accounts for that difference.  

 

STI sold frames in narrow (regular) and wide, and you could get either in long or short, so lots of variations out there.

 

Sometimes #8 is what you'd retap to if you had stripped threads on #6-32 or #6-40 holes, easier then welding up anyway.

 

Cutting down flat head cap screws to fit and not jam the slide is all part of the fun :D

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

So, I got everything situated with this gun, (new mount, new dot). 

Accuracy is STILL complete trash!! Like…

(15 yards, from a bench, using bean bags) 

 

- Factory training ammo is shifty and inconsistent.  
- Speer Gold Dot was much better but that’s not saying much for 15y off a bench and bag. 
- My 172pf reloads seemed to exaggerate the inaccuracies a lot more.   
 

Anyone think the barrel may be shot out too? 

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Regardless I’d like to swap the barrel.  I’d like to use the same comp but im not bound to that.  Anyone know what barrel I need for this thing? 
 

It looks like an old cone style  which I don’t think is around anymore.  

It measured 4 3/4 from the chamber hood to the end of the threads inside the comp.  

anyone know which barrel and/or comp I need? 
 

 

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