ddc Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) 36 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: Looks good ddc! What was your original OAL bolt length? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Looks like right about 2" total length. Edited to add: probably more like 1 3/4" if you don't include the bolt head in the measurement. You might be able to go about 1/4" shorter before the the head starts to be an issue for the primer slide actuating mechanism. Edited May 22, 2020 by ddc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 3 minutes ago, ddc said: Looks like right about 2" That will work! Thanks ddc! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Just as a follow up............. I was at Lowes and purchased a couple of 1/4-20 x 2" bolts along with a couple of 1/4-20 x 1.75" bolts to have on hand just in case the Primer Cam Bolt took a turn for the worse. Plus mvmojo and ddc were using the bolts as successful backup replacements. I remember someone mentioning that the cam bolt needed a washer or something behind the shoulder to put the bolt at the proper distance from the toolhead. 2, 1/4" washers OR 2, 1/4"x1" fender washers worked in thickness and seemed ok. Those 1" fender washers seemed like the perfect diameter! Then it hit me that I had purchased (at Lowes) a stick of 1/8" x 1" x 4' long flat aluminum bar stock to make some soft jaws for my and my Son's bench vises. So, I cut a piece 1" x 1 1/8" long, and drilled a 7/32" hole right in the center. The extra 1/8" length was filed down to make sure I had a good, flush fit. The stock Toolhead Ratchet is 0.137" thick while the Hillman aluminum flat bar is 0.127" thick. IMO, this is more than close enough! Just another option for those that like to remove the ratchet while retaining the stock Primer Cam Bolt. And, BTW, Dillon sent me 2 new Cam Bolts plus I ordered a Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100. Surely I'll have enough spares.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvmojo Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 You won't need the spares if you use the stainless steel bolt - you'll never wear it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 22 minutes ago, mvmojo said: You won't need the spares if you use the stainless steel bolt - you'll never wear it out! I'm sure you are correct. And I have the SS bolts handy should it fail again! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George16 Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 Have you guys check this upgraded rolled and cam bolt from Mojo Precision? https://mojoprecision.net/shop?olsPage=products%2Fupgraded-roller-and-cam-bolt-for-dillon-super-1050-rl-1100-cp-2000-presses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvmojo Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 35 minutes ago, George16 said: Have you guys check this upgraded rolled and cam bolt from Mojo Precision? https://mojoprecision.net/shop?olsPage=products%2Fupgraded-roller-and-cam-bolt-for-dillon-super-1050-rl-1100-cp-2000-presses Jeez, maybe I've been living in a cave, but I've never heard of, or had a problem with the case feed plunger roller or the bolt. Is this really a problem that I've just been lucky to escape? On my RL1050 the roller is made of stainless steel running on a mild steel shoulder bolt and the bolt could easily be replaced with a stainless one if it ever broke. There's really not much load on this part, it's only moving a light weight brass case. What am I missing that dictates a design revision with a plastic roller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted August 9, 2020 Author Share Posted August 9, 2020 On 5/26/2020 at 7:13 PM, HOGRIDER said: Just as a follow up............. I was at Lowes and purchased a couple of 1/4-20 x 2" bolts along with a couple of 1/4-20 x 1.75" bolts to have on hand just in case the Primer Cam Bolt took a turn for the worse. Plus mvmojo and ddc were using the bolts as successful backup replacements. I remember someone mentioning that the cam bolt needed a washer or something behind the shoulder to put the bolt at the proper distance from the toolhead. 2, 1/4" washers OR 2, 1/4"x1" fender washers worked in thickness and seemed ok. Those 1" fender washers seemed like the perfect diameter! Then it hit me that I had purchased (at Lowes) a stick of 1/8" x 1" x 4' long flat aluminum bar stock to make some soft jaws for my and my Son's bench vises. So, I cut a piece 1" x 1 1/8" long, and drilled a 7/32" hole right in the center. The extra 1/8" length was filed down to make sure I had a good, flush fit. The stock Toolhead Ratchet is 0.137" thick while the Hillman aluminum flat bar is 0.127" thick. IMO, this is more than close enough! Just another option for those that like to remove the ratchet while retaining the stock Primer Cam Bolt. And, BTW, Dillon sent me 2 new Cam Bolts plus I ordered a Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100. Surely I'll have enough spares.............. Nice! how's it working? and why a spacer since Dillon doesn't use one... I'm curious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 59 minutes ago, chgofirefighter said: Nice! how's it working? and why a spacer since Dillon doesn't use one... I'm curious! Of course my machine is not automated..........yet.... ;), so don't have a lot of rounds going through the press; but so far the aluminum shim seems to have the stock Guide Bolt spaced out from the toolhead at the right distance. I have no idea if this is even necessary, but since I removed the toolhead ratchet which is 0.137" thick, replacing it with a 1"x1" piece of aluminum flat bar seemed like a good idea. As stated in your quote above, the flat bar is 0.127" thick and makes it very easy to use as a replacement for the ratchet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomstick303 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 On 5/26/2020 at 6:13 PM, HOGRIDER said: The stock Toolhead Ratchet is 0.137" thick while the Hillman aluminum flat bar is 0.127" thick. IMO, this is more than close enough! Would it be possible to get a photo of this installed on the press? Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 30 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said: Would it be possible to get a photo of this installed on the press? Thank you. My pleasure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 31 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said: Would it be possible to get a photo of this installed on the press? Thank you. Another......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuz Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 If you guys are not using the ratchet, why not just cut off the ratchet part and use the top portion as the spacer? And, this is probably a better thread to discuss some of the problems/issues I’m having with the RL1100 than the 2 pass thread, now that we’ve verified that nobody runs dirty brass they the first pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highxj Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 4 minutes ago, Cuz said: If you guys are not using the ratchet, why not just cut off the ratchet part and use the top portion as the spacer? And, this is probably a better thread to discuss some of the problems/issues I’m having with the RL1100 than the 2 pass thread, now that we’ve verified that nobody runs dirty brass they the first pass. That's my plan now that I have a second toolhead, I'll save one ratchet intact in case for some weird reason I want to reinstall one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomstick303 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 22 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: Another......... Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George16 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Cuz said: If you guys are not using the ratchet, why not just cut off the ratchet part and use the top portion as the spacer? And that’s exactly what I did after receiving and setting up my RL1100. It works really good. I still have an extra ratchet with the extra tool head I bought if I decide to reinstall it in the future (I don’t think I will though ). Here’s a pic. Edited September 13, 2021 by George16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuz Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 11 minutes ago, George16 said: And that’s exactly what I did after receiving and setting up my RL1100. It works really good. I still have an extra ratchet with the extra tool head I bought if I decide to reinstall it in the future (I don’t think I will though ). Here’s a pic. After I said that I got to thinking it might just be easier to remove the ratchet tab parts instead. It should have the same affect, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George16 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Cuz said: After I said that I got to thinking it might just be easier to remove the ratchet tab parts instead. It should have the same affect, right? Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigarmsp226 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 On 9/13/2021 at 2:29 PM, George16 said: Yes. That is what I did and mine cycles perfectly…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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