HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 (edited) ltdmstr: They look the same.........but IMO are very different quality........... Here are a couple of pics of my RL1100 cam bolt. Second pic shows the outer perimeter cracked in a couple of places; and the walls of the hex insert/stamping will not grab the allen wrench........... Edited May 20, 2020 by HOGRIDER sp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 (edited) Just checked my 1050 manual and it's the same part number. So I'd say they probably have a batch of defective parts (bad heat treat or something). Edited May 20, 2020 by ltdmstr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 2 minutes ago, ltdmstr said: Just checked my 1050 manual and it's the same part number. So I'd say they probably have a batch of defective parts (bad heat treat or something). Thank you Sir! Sure appreciate you taking the time to research this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Seems like all these broken cam pins are on 9mm 1100 presses. Part may have been rushed to get it out faster to their customers. My 1100 is in 40 and I’ve removed this pin several times with no issues and it didn’t have loctite on it the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ming the Merciless Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 1 hour ago, Dirtchevy841 said: Seems like all these broken cam pins are on 9mm 1100 presses. Part may have been rushed to get it out faster to their customers. My 1100 is in 40 and I’ve removed this pin several times with no issues and it didn’t have loctite on it the first time. Just curious, other than to remove the ratchet, why would you remove the cam pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooke Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 6 hours ago, HOGRIDER said: BTW: a contact said his RL1050 had a similar setup, and that his cam bolt had been there for 25 years and never failed! Anyone browsing here that may have an RL-1050 that can elaborate on the type of cam bolt used on those machines? Thanks! Depends...I have an old RL1050. I never had an issue with the cam bolt until I removed the ratchet (due to putting on Mark 7). I broke the existing cam bolt and 3 more before I realized I needed to put washers under the bolt to compensate for the ratchet spacing. During that same period I bent 3 slide actuators. Believe me if you bend one get a new one. You can't return it to its original contours and it won't work anymore. I think we should stop and think why such a simple part is prone too breakage. Dillon is known to provide some "shear pins" in their equipment. Parts that break before even more extensive damage or safety issues occur. I'm going to interested in seeing how Dillon accommodates the AmmoBot with the ratchet removal for example. Things like a 100 primer feed tube and a shielded tube with a weak inside tube and a steel protective outer shield. Any primer ignition ruptures the inner tube to release pressure and vents the pressure upwards away from the operator. It works I can attest to. So is there a reason either safety or damage mitigation that causes Dillon to use the existing cam bolt. IDK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 6 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said: Seems like all these broken cam pins are on 9mm 1100 presses. Part may have been rushed to get it out faster to their customers. My 1100 is in 40 and I’ve removed this pin several times with no issues and it didn’t have loctite on it the first time. No mention of the part number being any different in the caliber conversions; page shows the bolt and part number with relationship to toolhead. IMO, this same part number/bolt has been used in the RL1050/S1050/RL1100 machines regardless of caliber........... MIM or inferior made part! #5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 4 hours ago, Ming the Merciless said: Just curious, other than to remove the ratchet, why would you remove the cam pin? If you remove the Toolhead, the ratchet and the cam bolt that holds it to the toolhead are removed......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 59 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: No mention of the part number being any different in the caliber conversions; page shows the bolt and part number with relationship to toolhead. IMO, this same part number/bolt has been used in the RL1050/S1050/RL1100 machines regardless of caliber........... MIM or inferior made part! #5 Yeah I know they are the same but I was saying that in a rush to get delayed parts maybe the Batch was bad or whatever and it seems like it’s more prevalent in 9mm presses where parts are difficult for dillon right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 4 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said: Yeah I know they are the same but I was saying that in a rush to get delayed parts maybe the Batch was bad or whatever and it seems like it’s more prevalent in 9mm presses where parts are difficult for dillon right now. Ok, yea I think your right! Everyone is in a huge rush........... I did call Dillon and after I had sent an email last night, they are sending me 2 new ones out priority mail. The Tech claimed these were a premium, case hardened bolt that did not require any loctite! Told him mine had more than enough; and he feels that is causing problems. Supposedly reporting to assembly supervisors........... I politely disagreed with the quality of his bolt; but did agree that production is probably using too much, and/or using the wrong loctite............. I'll still be applying 1 drop of Loctite 222 to mine when they get here................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said: Ok, yea I think your right! Everyone is in a huge rush........... I did call Dillon and after I had sent an email last night, they are sending me 2 new ones out priority mail. The Tech claimed these were a premium, case hardened bolt that did not require any loctite! Told him mine had more than enough; and he feels that is causing problems. Supposedly reporting to assembly supervisors........... I politely disagreed with the quality of his bolt; but did agree that production is probably using too much, and/or using the wrong loctite............. I'll still be applying 1 drop of Loctite 222 to mine when they get here................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 We broke the one on my super 1050 when we were getting it set up. Thankfully I had a spare parts kit. Now, I'm extra careful when I remove/install that part as it comes off pretty frequently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 38 minutes ago, RangerTrace said: We broke the one on my super 1050 when we were getting it set up. Thankfully I had a spare parts kit. Now, I'm extra careful when I remove/install that part as it comes off pretty frequently. RT: Funny that you mention that..........the Dillon Tech was curious as to why I had removed the bolt in the first place; and I told him that to install the RI Starlight system I had to remove the toolhead. And since this was my first 1050/1100 class machine, I was simply following the directions which states to remove the bolt and ratchet as "step 1" when removing the toolhead! His reply was that it wasn't actually necessary to remove the ratchet/bolt assembly when removing the toolhead............. So, I probably need to watch a few videos to get a better handle on this procedure. I'm thinking with the primer slide indexing assembly clamp and primer magazine so close by, and the toolhead pin/spring assembly at the rear, I'm not real sure just how difficult it would be to get the toolhead off with the ratchet intact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OptimiStick Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 14 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said: Seems like all these broken cam pins are on 9mm 1100 presses. Part may have been rushed to get it out faster to their customers. My 1100 is in 40 and I’ve removed this pin several times with no issues and it didn’t have loctite on it the first time. My original one was in .40, and same thing. I removed it and no loctite. I just got a new spare toolhead (empty, the RL1100 specific one) from Dillon, removed the ratchet - and it was also not loctited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 2 hours ago, HOGRIDER said: RT: Funny that you mention that..........the Dillon Tech was curious as to why I had removed the bolt in the first place; and I told him that to install the RI Starlight system I had to remove the toolhead. And since this was my first 1050/1100 class machine, I was simply following the directions which states to remove the bolt and ratchet as "step 1" when removing the toolhead! His reply was that it wasn't actually necessary to remove the ratchet/bolt assembly when removing the toolhead............. So, I probably need to watch a few videos to get a better handle on this procedure. I'm thinking with the primer slide indexing assembly clamp and primer magazine so close by, and the toolhead pin/spring assembly at the rear, I'm not real sure just how difficult it would be to get the toolhead off with the ratchet intact. Well, the only real issue I have with my 1050 is the primer feed/slide. So, I have to remove that assembly and the primer magazine to clean out the primer slide area. A real PITA, but I know how to do it now, and as long as the magazine is empty is no big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddc Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 3 hours ago, RangerTrace said: Well, the only real issue I have with my 1050 is the primer feed/slide. So, I have to remove that assembly and the primer magazine to clean out the primer slide area. A real PITA, but I know how to do it now, and as long as the magazine is empty is no big deal. And if it isn't and you're not thinking then you've got a bit of a mess. Or so I've heard. Something like that would never happen to me. No way. Not in a million years. Heard it from a guy. Not me, no way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 I've broken one over 20 years and had another wear a groove in the back from a rough primer cam lever on the RL1050 Put a drop of oil on it every now and then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ming the Merciless Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) 15 hours ago, HOGRIDER said: If you remove the Toolhead, the ratchet and the cam bolt that holds it to the toolhead are removed......... LOL! I removed the ratchet on my first 1050 nearly 25 years ago and the cam pin hasn't been touched since. The ratchet on my next 1050 barely made it out of the box before it was removed. None of my tool heads have a ratchet. Edited May 21, 2020 by Ming the Merciless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvmojo Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 (edited) Here's a couple of pictures of the cam guide bolt I made from a 1/4-20 stainless steel bolt purchased at Home Depot. I ground the head of the bolt off to allow it to fit. I chucked it up in a drill and held it against a grinding wheel. Didn't take long at all. Forgot to add, I just tightened it into the frame using a pair of pliers. Keep it greased and it won't back out. Edited May 21, 2020 by mvmojo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigarmsp226 Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) Mvmojo - thanks Sir for posting this picture...I am off to Lowes this weekend (no HD where I live) to see if I can find a bolt that looks like this (post grinding of course)... One question - what bolt length did you start with? Thanks Again...Mark Edited May 22, 2020 by Sigarmsp226 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Sig: I'm taking a guess that mvmojo may have used this one.......... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-x-1-in-Stainless-Coarse-Thread-Hex-Bolt/3701934 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) On 5/19/2020 at 5:21 AM, Brooke said: One thing about this part guys. It is a piece of garbage. I finally bought 10 so I would have spares. The biggest weakness is the thin wall where it's hollowed out for the Allen wrench. If you remove the ratchet, place some washers between the part and the structure it screws into. Failing to do that means the guide rides on the hollowed out section which will break it. You have to compensate for the thickness of the ratchet or you are doomed. Should this fragile part be better....hell yeah it should. My only fear with the McMaster stud is that it has no means to tighten it up without marring the surface which is likely an issue. Was just trying some different options for taking up the space/thickness to replace the ratchet, and two 1/4"x1" fender washers work perfectly to fit into the tool head recess. These are from Lowe's............. Edited May 22, 2020 by HOGRIDER update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) double post; please delete.......... Edited May 22, 2020 by HOGRIDER double-delete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddc Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 (edited) I'm not sure you need to do anything except chop the threads down to size. The following seems to be working fine on my machine. Ideally you'd use a bolt that wasn't quite so long but this is all I had to experiment with. Edited May 22, 2020 by ddc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Looks good ddc! What was your original OAL bolt length? [emoji106][emoji106]Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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