chgofirefighter Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 The RL1100 is a nice upgrade to the 1050, but after loading approximately 5k rounds is 9mm the primer slide cam guide bolt completely sheared on the down stroke leaving me unable to remove this cam bolt Since it requires an Allen key to remove/replace. Somehow the primer assembly struck the cam guide bolt hard enough to break it! Also, is there an upgraded case insert plunger spring available that can purchased separately? The stock plunger spring does not push the casing into the shell plate correctly. This is another issue that I would like to address. now I have to somehow drill out this primer assembly guide bolt out. Has anyone encountered this problem before? If so, how was it resolved? Not sure If there’s aftermarket upgrades around for these issues? Assistance would be greatly appreciated! thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerTrace Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 You will likely have to wait on hold for over an hour, but it sounds like a call to Dillon is needed. They are pretty new as well, so maybe your warranty is still good.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 chgo: Is this the same issue your having with the primer cam guide bolt? https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285118-rl1100-broken-cam-guide-bolt-pn-12486-help/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 35 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: chgo: Is this the same issue your having with the primer cam guide bolt? https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285118-rl1100-broken-cam-guide-bolt-pn-12486-help/ yes indeed! Not sure why Dillon is using a cheap ass pot metal bolt this issue happened on my prior 1050 too now the 1100. Dillon needs to step up their game and use quality bolts instead of these things that don’t last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 16 minutes ago, chgofirefighter said: yes indeed! Not sure why Dillon is using a cheap ass pot metal bolt this issue happened on my prior 1050 too now the 1100. Dillon needs to step up their game and use quality bolts instead of these things that don’t last long. Should be a given to use a quality part at this location! Wonder if something along this line would work as a replacement? https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said: Should be a given to use a quality part at this location! Wonder if something along this line would work as a replacement? https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/ I was actually looking at this option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said: Should be a given to use a quality part at this location! Wonder if something along this line would work as a replacement? https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/ But which will be an ideal size etc as a replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 1 hour ago, chgofirefighter said: But which will be an ideal size etc as a replacement? Mine is still mounted in the toolhead as I removed only the toolhead ratchet....... I just took some measurements of the shoulder diameter, length, and thickness of tool head where the stud bolts into. IIRC, the treads of the Cam Guide Bolt are 1/4x20. Since the thickness of the tool head in that area is just over 3/8" thick, 1/4" or 5/16" long threads would be fine. The Guide Bolt sits out over a 1/2" from the ratchet, and is 1/4" diameter on the shoulder. Researching the link at McMaster-Carr above, when selecting the 1/4"x20 thread size & pitch, there is not a shoulder size that would be compatible with the rest of the specs of the Dillon Cam Guide Bolt. So, someone is making this for Dillon; but it appears to be cheaply made or possibly a MIM part. And IMO, the "head" of the McMaster-Carr shoulder bolt would interfere and/or catch on the Primer Slide Indexing Assembly......... As of right now, it appears we are stuck with the Dillon part as is.........unless they experience a bunch of failures and decide to force the manufacturer to produce a stronger unit. BTW: I find that Dillon's #66206 Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100 actually includes a Cam Guide Bolt! We may need to stock up on extras............ SMH...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddc Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 52 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: Mine is still mounted in the toolhead as I removed only the toolhead ratchet....... I just took some measurements of the shoulder diameter, length, and thickness of tool head where the stud bolts into. IIRC, the treads of the Cam Guide Bolt are 1/4x20. Since the thickness of the tool head in that area is just over 3/8" thick, 1/4" or 5/16" long threads would be fine. The Guide Bolt sits out over a 1/2" from the ratchet, and is 1/4" diameter on the shoulder. Researching the link at McMaster-Carr above, when selecting the 1/4"x20 thread size & pitch, there is not a shoulder size that would be compatible with the rest of the specs of the Dillon Cam Guide Bolt. So, someone is making this for Dillon; but it appears to be cheaply made or possibly a MIM part. And IMO, the "head" of the McMaster-Carr shoulder bolt would interfere and/or catch on the Primer Slide Indexing Assembly......... As of right now, it appears we are stuck with the Dillon part as is.........unless they experience a bunch of failures and decide to force the manufacturer to produce a stronger unit. BTW: I find that Dillon's #66206 Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100 actually includes a Cam Guide Bolt! We may need to stock up on extras............ SMH...... What about 92012A587? Seems close if I'm reading the table correctly: 10/24, 1/4" shoulder diameter, 1/2" shoulder length; 3/8" thread length Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) 25 minutes ago, ddc said: What about 92012A587? Seems close if I'm reading the table correctly: 10/24, 1/4" shoulder diameter, 1/2" shoulder length; 3/8" thread length Only thing that prohibits that particular part number is the 10x24 thread pitch......the Dillon Cam Bolt uses 1/4"x 20 thread size. Definitely reduces the options available in this shoulder bolt selection........ https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/thread-size~1-4-20/ Edit: Just found this that appears to be closer to what we need.......still searching............... https://www.mcmaster.com/97042A172-97042A172 Edited May 18, 2020 by HOGRIDER update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddc Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 43 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said: Only thing that prohibits that particular part number is the 10x24 thread pitch......the Dillon Cam Bolt uses 1/4"x 20 thread size. Definitely reduces the options available in this shoulder bolt selection........ https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/thread-size~1-4-20/ Edit: Just found this that appears to be closer to what we need.......still searching............... https://www.mcmaster.com/97042A172-97042A172 arrgghh, for some reason I transposed 1/4"x20 into 10x24 between the time I read your post and then went to mcmaster/carr. yeah, that wouldn't work! lol... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvmojo Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 It's not hard to make. Home Depot sells a 1/4-20 ss bolt. Just grind off the head of the bolt. That's what I did and it works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtchevy841 Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 44 minutes ago, mvmojo said: It's not hard to make. Home Depot sells a 1/4-20 ss bolt. Just grind off the head of the bolt. That's what I did and it works fine. Pic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 2 hours ago, mvmojo said: It's not hard to make. Home Depot sells a 1/4-20 ss bolt. Just grind off the head of the bolt. That's what I did and it works fine. Good idea! Have any photos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigarmsp226 Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 5 hours ago, mvmojo said: It's not hard to make. Home Depot sells a 1/4-20 ss bolt. Just grind off the head of the bolt. That's what I did and it works fine. MvMojo - This is a great idea - Can you provide a photo of what you did when your time allows.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 (edited) MvMojo: I too am interested in seeing a pic. If your having sizing problems, send us a copy and I'm sure one of us can resize and post it for you. I noticed Home Depot has some 1/4"-20 x 1" ss bolts that have a shoulder.....was this what you used? I took a pic of the mechanism, and looks like there's very little room for any kind of "bolt head" next to the Primer Slide Indexing assembly. But you stated you ground the head off, so that should have worked. Wondering how you tightened the headless bolt............. Edited May 19, 2020 by HOGRIDER sp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 8 hours ago, ddc said: arrgghh, for some reason I transposed 1/4"x20 into 10x24 between the time I read your post and then went to mcmaster/carr. yeah, that wouldn't work! lol... LOL! Very easily to get confused looking at a McMaster-Carr catalog! Too many sizes to choose from! The last item (partially threaded stud) would work; however the threaded portion is 1/2" long and the tool head is just over 3/8" thick..........but it shouldn't be a problem in a pinch....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooke Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 One thing about this part guys. It is a piece of garbage. I finally bought 10 so I would have spares. The biggest weakness is the thin wall where it's hollowed out for the Allen wrench. If you remove the ratchet, place some washers between the part and the structure it screws into. Failing to do that means the guide rides on the hollowed out section which will break it. You have to compensate for the thickness of the ratchet or you are doomed. Should this fragile part be better....hell yeah it should. My only fear with the McMaster stud is that it has no means to tighten it up without marring the surface which is likely an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIIID Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 1 hour ago, Brooke said: One thing about this part guys. It is a piece of garbage. I finally bought 10 so I would have spares. The biggest weakness is the thin wall where it's hollowed out for the Allen wrench. If you remove the ratchet, place some washers between the part and the structure it screws into. Failing to do that means the guide rides on the hollowed out section which will break it. You have to compensate for the thickness of the ratchet or you are doomed. Should this fragile part be better....hell yeah it should. My only fear with the McMaster stud is that it has no means to tighten it up without marring the surface which is likely an issue. Cut a slot on the end to use a straight blade screw driver. Is that assembly actually needed? I thought on the 1050's we would remove it, it's been 20 years since I had one, I load on the RL 1000's now. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 3 hours ago, Brooke said: If you remove the ratchet, place some washers between the part and the structure it screws into. Failing to do that means the guide rides on the hollowed out section which will break it. You have to compensate for the thickness of the ratchet or you are doomed. Agree! 2 standard 1/4" flat washers will almost replicate the thickness of the Toohead Ratchet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A_Cardboard_Box Posted May 19, 2020 Share Posted May 19, 2020 On 5/18/2020 at 3:59 AM, chgofirefighter said: The RL1100 is a nice upgrade to the 1050, but after loading approximately 5k rounds is 9mm the primer slide cam guide bolt completely sheared on the down stroke leaving me unable to remove this cam bolt Since it requires an Allen key to remove/replace. Somehow the primer assembly struck the cam guide bolt hard enough to break it! Also, is there an upgraded case insert plunger spring available that can purchased separately? The stock plunger spring does not push the casing into the shell plate correctly. This is another issue that I would like to address. now I have to somehow drill out this primer assembly guide bolt out. Has anyone encountered this problem before? If so, how was it resolved? Not sure If there’s aftermarket upgrades around for these issues? Assistance would be greatly appreciated! thanks! chgo - Did you manage to get the bolt out? I found some heat from a heat gun and some vicegrips on the bolt nub got it out very easily. But then again, I had quite a bit to grab onto, not sure what yours looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 (edited) On 5/18/2020 at 8:19 AM, chgofirefighter said: yes indeed! Not sure why Dillon is using a cheap ass pot metal bolt this issue happened on my prior 1050 too now the 1100. Dillon needs to step up their game and use quality bolts instead of these things that don’t last long. Well, add me to the list of failed Primer Cam Guide Bolt victims! Was removing the Toolhead to install the RI Lighting System, and when I tried to remove the cam guide bolt, the hex insert that allows the allen key to tighten/remove literally fell apart! Outer perimeter is cracked...........had to use a pair of vice grips to get it out..... And what's odd, is I had already had this bolt out when removing the ratchet, and had reinstalled it with less tightening force than it was originally installed with! Firefighter hit the nail on the head: cheap azz pot metal or MIM bolt! SMH Edited May 20, 2020 by HOGRIDER sp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 BTW: a contact said his RL1050 had a similar setup, and that his cam bolt had been there for 25 years and never failed! Anyone browsing here that may have an RL-1050 that can elaborate on the type of cam bolt used on those machines? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Same experience for me with the RLs. I have three, and in 25+ years, never had a broken cam bolt. I'd be surprised if it's different part on the new machines. Looks the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 3 minutes ago, ltdmstr said: Same experience for me with the RLs. I have three, and in 25+ years, never had a broken cam bolt. I'd be surprised if it's different part on the new machines. Looks the same. ltdmstr: That sure looks very similar if not identical to the one on the RL1100! Wow! Would you happen to have a part number on that particular one? Dillon Part #12486 is what's listed on my RL1100. THANK YOU for posting the pics and info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now