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P10F Carry Optics Setup


Mitch_Hoff

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Because there isn’t a lot of information about it, I thought I would share how I set up my P10F for USPSA Carry Optics. 

 

Current Setup:

P10F Optics Ready

Cajun Gunworks 

-10320 Reduced Pull Striker and Spring, my trigger breaks at 3.0 lbs YMMV. 

- P10F Hardened Stainless Guide Rod w/ 15 lb recoil spring. 

 

CZ Custom:

-Mounting Plate for Vortex Razor

-140mm Extensions (Factory spring and follower       for 22 reloadable)

 

HB Industries Theta Trigger Shoe

 

Talon Grips

 

Vortex Razor 6 MOA

 

As far as work I’ve done to the gun, I polished the contact services (Sear shelf, striker safety, etc). I’m running a BBI 135gr at around 134 PF, and I found that the 15 lb spring from Cajun allows the dot to track nicely. I’ve tried flat wire Glock springs, 11, and 13 lb and determined that I personally prefer the 15 lb. 

 

Striker Springs: Glock springs work, I’ve tried a Zev 2 lb spring, this dropped the pull weight down to 2.5 lb, but was only 95% reliable on Federal primers. That being said I may still try a 3lb Zev spring, but at this point I’m content with where the gun is at as far the trigger is concerned. 

 

Mags: I like the CZ Custom Extensions, though I haven’t had a chance to try the Springer extensions (the set screw thing steers me away). I’m current using the factory spring and follower for 22 reloadable. I’m going to try the Grams P series spring and follower kit. I have read that some folks are trimming the STI 11-coil spring and followers to around 29mm front to back and have had good results, and I know that the CZC 10-coil will work as well. I have also heard that Henning has a P series 140mm extension in the works, I will definitely pick these up. 

 

Miscellaneous: It seems that this gun doesn’t like round nose flat point profile bullets, even loaded down to 1.07” OAL. It really likes the BBI 135gr and the Gallant 147gr. STICK WITH ROUND NOSE. 

 

I think that sums it up for me, hopefully someone finds this useful. I prefer this setup over the Shadow/S2, for various reasons. This gun is a very viable, and underrated IMo, for USPSA Carry Optics. 

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you guys think the HBI or Cajun trigger is worth getting over the stock one?

 

I run the HBI trigger. The flat face is nice.

Havent tried CGW or their striker/spring.

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44 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you guys think the HBI or Cajun trigger is worth getting over the stock one?

Haven’t tried the Cajun, but I have a personal preference for flat triggers. If the stock doesn’t bother you, and you don’t have a solid preference, I’d run the stock. I didn’t mind it at all, it’s just a personal thing. 

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31 minutes ago, NoKimberDave said:

Stock was decent for me and I didn't get any trigger bite. But I like the feel HBI quite a bit more.

Although it would be nice to be able to dial out some over travel. I believe this can be done with the CGW trigger.

Just my opinion.

 

 

I completely agree. Over the off season, I’m getting rid of some other pieces to build a backup, and I’ll probably do the Cajun trigger as well. 

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6 minutes ago, 01svtL said:

Watching, hoping y'all keep this thread going.  I've been considering picking one up as well.  I have a P10C with a PMM comp that I really like.

I’ll continue to update as I get more rounds through it. I think I’m only around 2-3k at this point. I did just order the Henning 140mm extension for the P10F. 

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@Mitch_Hoff, do you get any leading with those Gallant 147's? I I've been getting a small but consistent amount of leading in my P10F from pretty much every coated bullet I've tried other than .356" Blue Bullets. I've tried Brazos 125 (.357), Gallant RN 125 and 147 (both .356 and .357), Ibeji's 147 FP(.357), and Blue Bullet (.355 and .356). My brother-in-laws new P10F also fouls quickly with Gallants but is alright with Blue Bullets. I loaded them all so I could very well be the weak link.

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1 minute ago, BryceA said:

@Mitch_Hoff, do you get any leading with those Gallant 147's? I I've been getting a small but consistent amount of leading in my P10F from pretty much every coated bullet I've tried other than .356" Blue Bullets. I've tried Brazos 125 (.357), Gallant RN 125 and 147 (both .356 and .357), Ibeji's 147 FP(.357), and Blue Bullet (.355 and .356). My brother-in-laws new P10F also fouls quickly with Gallants but is alright with Blue Bullets. I loaded them all so I could very well be the weak link.

To be honest, I’ve gotten a little bit with every coated bullet I’ve ran (BBI, Gallant, Bayou, SNS) in any gun I’ve ran them in. I think a lot of it may be due to powder choice. I’ll be switching to sport pistol soon. Currently using Win 244. With coated bullets it’s really important that you’re not over crimping. I use a lee factory crimp die, and when I set my crimp I back it out till it’s essentially not really crimping it, and then add more crimp little by little until it passes case gauge and then I’ll add just a hair more. You also need to put a heavy bell on the case to reduce the chance of scraping off the coating as the bullet is seated.  
 

As far as leading, it’s very very minor streaks towards the end of the rifling. Never been so bad I could get it out with a bore brush. Whenever I clean it (About every 500 rounds, or once a week) I’ll check it, and I usually just pull a bore snake through it. Unless it’s looking real gunked up. 
 

One more thing I’ve looked at doing is actually picking up an aftermarket barrel, nothing to due with leading, but to see if I can load a little longer. 
 

hope this helps  

 

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3 minutes ago, Mitch_Hoff said:

To be honest, I’ve gotten a little bit with every coated bullet I’ve ran (BBI, Gallant, Bayou, SNS) in any gun I’ve ran them in. I think a lot of it may be due to powder choice. I’ll be switching to sport pistol soon. Currently using Win 244. With coated bullets it’s really important that you’re not over crimping. I use a lee factory crimp die, and when I set my crimp I back it out till it’s essentially not really crimping it, and then add more crimp little by little until it passes case gauge and then I’ll add just a hair more. You also need to put a heavy bell on the case to reduce the chance of scraping off the coating as the bullet is seated.  
 

As far as leading, it’s very very minor streaks towards the end of the rifling. Never been so bad I could get it out with a bore brush. Whenever I clean it (About every 500 rounds, or once a week) I’ll check it, and I usually just pull a bore snake through it. Unless it’s looking real gunked up. 
 

One more thing I’ve looked at doing is actually picking up an aftermarket barrel, nothing to due with leading, but to see if I can load a little longer. 
 

hope this helps  

 

Sounds like we've had similar experiences. Btw, I'm loading Sport Pistol exclusively now. When I first started reloading I did load some Gallant 115's (.356) with Titegroup to make what seemed like a lead squirt-gun. I've gotten the Gallants in 125 and 147 RN at .357" to work in my Gen5 Glock (haven't try them in my M&P, yet), the Ibeji 147 FP in .357" work great in Glock and M&P 2.0, and the Blue Bullet's 135 TC in .356" work in everything, no leading at all from the sample pack. The coating on Blue Bullets is very thick and a bit more elastic unlike the typical Hi-Tek coating which is quite thin and tends to flake when scraped.

 

I found good (enough) accuracy from the blue bullet 135 TC .356 and just ordered a case of them. Hopefully lead fouling is behind me...

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1 hour ago, BryceA said:

Sounds like we've had similar experiences. Btw, I'm loading Sport Pistol exclusively now. When I first started reloading I did load some Gallant 115's (.356) with Titegroup to make what seemed like a lead squirt-gun. I've gotten the Gallants in 125 and 147 RN at .357" to work in my Gen5 Glock (haven't try them in my M&P, yet), the Ibeji 147 FP in .357" work great in Glock and M&P 2.0, and the Blue Bullet's 135 TC in .356" work in everything, no leading at all from the sample pack. The coating on Blue Bullets is very thick and a bit more elastic unlike the typical Hi-Tek coating which is quite thin and tends to flake when scraped.

 

I found good (enough) accuracy from the blue bullet 135 TC .356 and just ordered a case of them. Hopefully lead fouling is behind me...

Yeah, it hasn’t seemed to hinder accuracy at all, furthest I’ve taken it out to is about 35 yards right now, but the Gallant 147 groups well. 
 

I’ve actually switched back to the 135 gr BBI because I feel the dot tracks better. But I would still like to try a 125 gr load. What charge are you using for your 125 grain load with sport pistol?

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30 minutes ago, Mitch_Hoff said:

Yeah, it hasn’t seemed to hinder accuracy at all, furthest I’ve taken it out to is about 35 yards right now, but the Gallant 147 groups well. 
 

I’ve actually switched back to the 135 gr BBI because I feel the dot tracks better. But I would still like to try a 125 gr load. What charge are you using for your 125 grain load with sport pistol?

Depends on the bullet, but typically between 3.6gr and 3.9gr Sport Pistol with 3.8gr or 3.9gr being ideal in terms of PF for Gallant 125's (not providing loading advice only person experiences, use published data, lawyers, etc...). I didn't group them since they were signs of fouling after a few shots so I can't comment on accuracy.

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I only run Blue Bullets and haven’t experienced any leading in any pistols. I use Prima V for minor and I will go about 2500-3000 rounds before cleaning. The blue bullets 135TC is great since it allows a longer OAL in the CZ. I typically run around 1.145 and have shot a lot of these with zero issues. For the guys that like them or want to try you can use code (Moser) for a 5% discount. I’m using the 147 now in the P10f but have to load it much shorter 1.095OAL but still don’t have any issues with leading. 

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54 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

I only run Blue Bullets and haven’t experienced any leading in any pistols. I use Prima V for minor and I will go about 2500-3000 rounds before cleaning. The blue bullets 135TC is great since it allows a longer OAL in the CZ. I typically run around 1.145 and have shot a lot of these with zero issues. For the guys that like them or want to try you can use code (Moser) for a 5% discount. I’m using the 147 now in the P10f but have to load it much shorter 1.095OAL but still don’t have any issues with leading. 

Are you using .355 or .356? I had some slight leading with the TC 125 even with .356. As you noted, their RN profiles have to loaded super short for my P10F. Their 147's shot soft enough but loading them so short worried me and they weren't as accurate for me as the 135 TC which also can be loaded a bit longer.

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10 hours ago, BryceA said:

Are you using .355 or .356? I had some slight leading with the TC 125 even with .356. As you noted, their RN profiles have to loaded super short for my P10F. Their 147's shot soft enough but loading them so short worried me and they weren't as accurate for me as the 135 TC which also can be loaded a bit longer.

The 135’s are .355 and the 147’s are .356. I’ve had no problems with either. I didn’t like the idea of loading the 147’s so short but it runs them great and I’ll getting under 3” group at 20 yards and I’m fine with that for Uspsa 

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7 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

The 135’s are .355 and the 147’s are .356. I’ve had no problems with either. I didn’t like the idea of loading the 147’s so short but it runs them great and I’ll getting under 3” group at 20 yards and I’m fine with that for Uspsa 

Heh, we picked the exact opposite size configuration: I tried the 135 TC in .356" and the 147 in .355". My P10F barrel slugs at .356, a bit larger than my other pistols so it makes sense to me why it likes a fatter bullet. Perhaps yours is the same. I was curious about their 147 FP but the lube grove and lack of representation in .356 in their 'special order profiles' kept me away.

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