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P10F Carry Optics Setup


Mitch_Hoff

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11 hours ago, BryceA said:

Heh, we picked the exact opposite size configuration: I tried the 135 TC in .356" and the 147 in .355". My P10F barrel slugs at .356, a bit larger than my other pistols so it makes sense to me why it likes a fatter bullet. Perhaps yours is the same. I was curious about their 147 FP but the lube grove and lack of representation in .356 in their 'special order profiles' kept me away.

I think most cz barrels are slightly on the larger size. My shadow was .356 or .357 when I slugged it. Accuracy was still pretty good though for Uspsa. My TSO is really accurate though. 2” groups at 25yrds all day with that thing. What springs are you running in the P10f? I’m running the Cajun steel guide rod with a 13lb spring and really want to try a 12lb. I’m still debating on the HBI or Cajun trigger though. Some people say it’s worth it and others say no so......

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2 hours ago, Superpipe9 said:

I think most cz barrels are slightly on the larger size. My shadow was .356 or .357 when I slugged it. Accuracy was still pretty good though for Uspsa. My TSO is really accurate though. 2” groups at 25yrds all day with that thing. What springs are you running in the P10f? I’m running the Cajun steel guide rod with a 13lb spring and really want to try a 12lb. I’m still debating on the HBI or Cajun trigger though. Some people say it’s worth it and others say no so......

 

Mine is still bone stock and I love it, which is what I find most appealing about the P10 platform. Spring rate feels right, though I may play with it this winter. It's probably that I'm used to Glocks, but I'm quite happy with the stock trigger: it's a bit on the heavy side for a game gun but not bad and I can still get a straight-to-the-back pull out of it pretty much every time. I do want to change out the front sight but was waiting to settle on a load so I could order the right height, so that will probably change soon. Oh, and I should get some grip tape.

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Picked up my F this afternoon.  Love the feel of the grip, and the mag release isn't stiff like my C is.  I promptly put my comped C upper on the F frame just to see if it would function - it does.  And honestly, the balance feels better.  This got me to thinking, though, with the giant hollow space under the backstrap on these guns, could you fill them with something to add some weight and make them better balanced?    Maybe drop a brass or tungsten rod in and fill with the same epoxy that the Glock guys use to do grip reductions?  Thoughts?

 

Pic of C upper on F lower, attached, just to show you guys.

 

 

p10.png

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8 minutes ago, 01svtL said:

Picked up my F this afternoon.  Love the feel of the grip, and the mag release isn't stiff like my C is.  I promptly put my comped C upper on the F frame just to see if it would function - it does.  And honestly, the balance feels better.  This got me to thinking, though, with the giant hollow space under the backstrap on these guns, could you fill them with something to add some weight and make them better balanced?    Maybe drop a brass or tungsten rod in and fill with the same epoxy that the Glock guys use to do grip reductions?  Thoughts?

 

Pic of C upper on F lower, attached, just to show you guys.

 

 

p10.png

You can absolutely add weight in the back strap. On another thread I saw someone put lead shot in with epoxy. I haven’t done it, I may try it when I pick up my second F. 

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13 minutes ago, Mitch_Hoff said:

You can absolutely add weight in the back strap. On another thread I saw someone put lead shot in with epoxy. I haven’t done it, I may try it when I pick up my second F. 

 

That's actually exactly what I asked my buddy who does stippling and cerakoting.  His reply was "it could work, but maybe a couple of thin brass or tungsten dowels/rods would be better."  My original thought was to just open up a shotgun shell and mix some in with epoxy.

 

Side note, mine didn't come with different backstrap sizes.  I also didn't see a cutout for them in the foam in the box.  Does the F not come with different sizes or are mine missing?

Edited by 01svtL
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17 minutes ago, 01svtL said:

 

That's actually exactly what I asked my buddy who does stippling and cerakoting.  His reply was "it could work, but maybe a couple of thin brass or tungsten dowels/rods would be better."  My original thought was to just open up a shotgun shell and mix some in with epoxy.

 

Side note, mine didn't come with different backstrap sizes.  I also didn't see a cutout for them in the foam in the box.  Does the F not come with different sizes or are mine missing?

They got cheap on the case. Check under the foam, all the goodies are hidden under there. After a while they get less shy and fall out every time you open the box.

 

And congrats on your new P10F! It's a fantastic platform. It starts out good but after about 1K rounds everything on my has loosened up and feels even better.

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16 hours ago, 01svtL said:
5 hours ago, mrvip27 said:

Anyone tried the Henning basepads yet? I think they are supposedly shipping before the 14th.

I pre-ordered, they haven’t shipped yet. But I’ll post about them when they show up, as an edit to the OP. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

TLDR: Factory spring and follower gets you 22 reloadable, fit and finish is excellent. Feels good on the reload. 

 

UPDATE: Today I received the Henning Group 140mm extension. Putting it on, and taking it off is much easier than the CZC extensions. I prefer the detent style myself. 
 

Now here’s the catch, and someone is going to cry. I was informed by Henning Group that they would not be selling the extension as a kit with the Grams P-Series spring and follower kit because they could not get them to run 100% without rounds beginning to nose dive and causing the gun to jam. (I’ve had this issue with the CZC 10 coil spring and follower and the grams kit myself with the CZC extensions and is why I reverted back to the factory spring and follower. 
 

I can get 22 in the mag, and it is reloadable. It’s a little stiff but not as bad as say a 2011 with 20 rounds of .40. It honestly doesn’t take a lot of force at all. 
 

If you’ve used Henning pads in the past on let’s say a production gun, these have the same ergonomic approach to them where there isn’t a big lip on the front which makes them easier to grab and jam into the gun. 
 

I would call these a win. 
 

9755AD02-3105-4F08-A1AD-ECABC47B56E9.jpeg

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On 10/21/2019 at 1:53 PM, Mitch_Hoff said:

TLDR: Factory spring and follower gets you 22 reloadable, fit and finish is excellent. Feels good on the reload. 

 

UPDATE: Today I received the Henning Group 140mm extension. Putting it on, and taking it off is much easier than the CZC extensions. I prefer the detent style myself. 
 

Now here’s the catch, and someone is going to cry. I was informed by Henning Group that they would not be selling the extension as a kit with the Grams P-Series spring and follower kit because they could not get them to run 100% without rounds beginning to nose dive and causing the gun to jam. (I’ve had this issue with the CZC 10 coil spring and follower and the grams kit myself with the CZC extensions and is why I reverted back to the factory spring and follower. 
 

I can get 22 in the mag, and it is reloadable. It’s a little stiff but not as bad as say a 2011 with 20 rounds of .40. It honestly doesn’t take a lot of force at all. 
 

If you’ve used Henning pads in the past on let’s say a production gun, these have the same ergonomic approach to them where there isn’t a big lip on the front which makes them easier to grab and jam into the gun. 
 

I would call these a win. 
 

9755AD02-3105-4F08-A1AD-ECABC47B56E9.jpeg

 

Awesome thanks for the update.

 

PS. do you need to trim the follower legs a bit?

Edited by mrvip27
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IMG_3194.jpg
I'll jump in.  I picked up a P-10F OR to replace my SP-01.  Aggressive stipple job is from MAC Defense.  At my request he permanently epoxied the medium backstrap in place, filled the void, and opened up the back of magwell.

IMG_3033.JPG

 

I'm using CZC extensions with my mags.  With Grams P09 followers with 11-coil spring, I could get 23 rounds in but they weren't reloadable.  Worse, the first 2-3 rounds would consistently nosedive.  I ended up swapping back to factory followers and springs and trimmed off the back leg like Henning recommends.  22 rounds reloadable.  Dawson mag base numbered grip tape for factory Beretta base pads work perfectly with the CZC extensions.

Just like my SP-01, my 147 RN rounds (1.131" OAL) wouldn't pass the plunk test with the barrel.  I cut the leade with a throating reamer until it would plunk a 1.140" round.

As for recoil springs, I use a fatter Jentra Gen3 Glock .275" tungsten guide rod with Wolff round wire G17 springs.  I'm currently using a 15# spring with 3 coils clipped off.  Otherwise, the spring coil binds and reduces the rearward stroke by about 2mm.  Ammo is 147gr @ 132PF

I'm using a 4# Wolff Glock striker spring, CGW aluminum trigger, CGW reduced reset spring, and CGW 10320 Striker.  Also, Glock OEM spring cups fit the lighter striker spring a little better than the CZ ones.  I've  developed a set of custom trigger return springs to reduce the weight a couple oz.  I even built a trigger testing rig.  It breaks at at 2lbs 8.6oz.  Take-up to the wall is about 1lb 6oz.  Reset is just under 2mm.  For kicks, I recut the ramp on a spare connector to 39 degrees.  The resulting trigger broke under 2lbs.  Neat but way to light for me.

No light strikes to date.  I honed the inside of the striker channel and polished the striker to reduce as much friction as possible.  CGW says the tip geometry of their striker is radiused differently to allow better primer reliability.

I just picked up the CZ OEM optics plate and buis to replace my CZC plate.  It's 1oz heavier than the aluminum CZC.  Gonna re-zero this weekend so I'll know how it effects the handling if at all.

Here's the rig I built for testing trigger pulls and reset.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrTfWcTm4aI

Trigger data: X-axis is trigger pull distance in mm, Y is weight in ounces.  I know engineers hate mixing units but my linear actuator uses a metric pitch ballscrew, and everyone uses oz/lbs for triggers.

 P-10F+CO+Setup.png

Edited by earlan357
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15 minutes ago, earlan357 said:

IMG_3194.jpg
I'll jump in.  I picked up a P-10F OR to replace my SP-01.  Aggressive stipple job is from MAC Defense.  At my request he permanently epoxied the medium backstrap in place, filled the void, and opened up the back of magwell.

IMG_3033.JPG

 

I'm using CZC extensions with my mags.  With Grams P09 followers with 11-coil spring, I could get 23 rounds in but they weren't reloadable.  Worse, the first 2-3 rounds would consistently nosedive.  I ended up swapping back to factory followers and springs and trimmed off the back leg like Henning recommends.  22 rounds reloadable.

As for recoil springs, I use a fatter Jentra Gen3 Glock .275" tungsten guide rod with Wolff round wire G17 springs.  I'm currently using a 15# spring with 3 coils clipped off.  Otherwise, the spring coil binds and reduces the rearward stroke by about 2mm.  Ammo is 147gr @ 132PF

I'm using a 4# Wolff Glock striker spring, CGW aluminum trigger, CGW reduced reset spring, and CGW 10320 Striker.  Also, Glock OEM spring cups fit the lighter striker spring a little better than the CZ ones.  I've  developed a set of custom trigger return springs to reduce the weight a couple oz.  I even built a trigger testing rig.  It breaks at at 2lbs 8.6oz.  Take-up to the wall is about 1lb 6oz.  Reset is just under 2mm.  For kicks, I recut the ramp on a spare connector to 39 degrees.  The resulting trigger broke under 2lbs.  Neat but way to light for me.

No light strikes to date.  I honed the inside of the striker channel and polished the striker to reduce as much friction as possible.  CGW says the tip geometry of their striker is radiused differently to allow better primer reliability.

I just picked up the CZ OEM optics plate and buis to replace my CZC plate.  It's 1oz heavier than the aluminum CZC.  Gonna re-zero this weekend so I'll know how it effects the handling if at all.

Here's the rig I built for testing trigger pulls and reset.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrTfWcTm4aI

Trigger data: X-axis is trigger pull distance in mm, Y is weight in ounces.  I know engineers hate mixing units but my linear actuator uses a metric pitch ballscrew, and everyone uses oz/lbs for triggers.

 P-10F+CO+Setup.png

Excellent addition to this thread, sir. In regards to the extension and spring followed issue, you are the third person I’ve heard from that had the same results. But I’m not butthurt about losing 1 round and using the factory spring and follower. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/4/2019 at 5:12 PM, Mitch_Hoff said:

Because there isn’t a lot of information about it, I thought I would share how I set up my P10F for USPSA Carry Optics. 

 

Current Setup:

P10F Optics Ready

Cajun Gunworks 

-10320 Reduced Pull Striker and Spring, my trigger breaks at 3.0 lbs YMMV. 

- P10F Hardened Stainless Guide Rod w/ 15 lb recoil spring

 

CZ Custom:

-Mounting Plate for Vortex Razor

-140mm Extensions (Factory spring and follower       for 22 reloadable)

 

HB Industries Theta Trigger Shoe

 

Talon Grips

 

Vortex Razor 6 MOA

 

As far as work I’ve done to the gun, I polished the contact services (Sear shelf, striker safety, etc). I’m running a BBI 135gr at around 134 PF, and I found that the 15 lb spring from Cajun allows the dot to track nicely. I’ve tried flat wire Glock springs, 11, and 13 lb and determined that I personally prefer the 15 lb. 

 

Striker Springs: Glock springs work, I’ve tried a Zev 2 lb spring, this dropped the pull weight down to 2.5 lb, but was only 95% reliable on Federal primers. That being said I may still try a 3lb Zev spring, but at this point I’m content with where the gun is at as far the trigger is concerned. 

 

Mags: I like the CZ Custom Extensions, though I haven’t had a chance to try the Springer extensions (the set screw thing steers me away). I’m current using the factory spring and follower for 22 reloadable. I’m going to try the Grams P series spring and follower kit. I have read that some folks are trimming the STI 11-coil spring and followers to around 29mm front to back and have had good results, and I know that the CZC 10-coil will work as well. I have also heard that Henning has a P series 140mm extension in the works, I will definitely pick these up. 

 

Miscellaneous: It seems that this gun doesn’t like round nose flat point profile bullets, even loaded down to 1.07” OAL. It really likes the BBI 135gr and the Gallant 147gr. STICK WITH ROUND NOSE

 

I think that sums it up for me, hopefully someone finds this useful. I prefer this setup over the Shadow/S2, for various reasons. This gun is a very viable, and underrated IMo, for USPSA Carry Optics. 

 

 

Which model glock recoil spring did you try?

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53 minutes ago, NumberTwo said:

 

I take it Glock 17?

 

54 minutes ago, Superpipe9 said:

Which did you prefer the 11 or 13?

Neither personally, using the Cajun 15#, with the 135 gr load I’m using it’s tracks a little better with the 15. But between the two 11 vs 13, I preferred the 13. But it’s going to come down to your ammo and grip in which works best for you. 

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The P10F spring tunnel is cut about 1/2” behind the muzzle so Glock 17 flat and round-wire springs are too long.  They will coil bind and prevent the slide from retracting the last 2-3mm unless you cut off a few coils.  Glock 19 length springs do fit without cutting coils.

Edited by earlan357
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earlan357,

 

  Looking forward to seeing the difference in using the factory plate and sights.  I'm also interested in your opinion on CZ plate vs CZC plate vs dedicated milling for competition and/or carry.

 

Thanks.

Edited by PCTShoe
clarity
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6 hours ago, PCTShoe said:

earlan357,

 

  Looking forward to seeing the difference in using the factory plate and sights.  I'm also interested in your opinion on CZ plate vs CZC plate vs dedicated milling for competition and/or carry.

 

Thanks.

 

The factory plate is 0.7oz heavier, but fits my SRO tighter.  CZC and OEM plates are the same thickness.  Both fit the slide equally.  You can see a sliver of light between the front and rear of both plates in the slide.  The co-witness irons are fine with a Holosun/RMR, but just barely usable with the thicker bodied SRO.  The plate's surface drops the optic .135" deep in the slide.  If you have the slide milled, an RMR/SRO can sit .185" deep.  I picked up the OR used, but I prefer milled.  The optic can sit lower, further back from the ejection port, and with a Glock rear dovetail, you get more sight choices.  

IMG_3862.JPG

IMG_3338.JPG

IMG_3347.JPG

IMG_3340.JPG

IMG_3341.JPG

IMG_3345.JPG

72862500_2908955755799768_28932443789548

72650432_2908955735799770_70667643621946

 

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Thanks Earlan,

 

It looks like the stock plate and sights work with the holosun, not so much with the SRO.  I'm guessing a milled slide would be as light or lighter than the CZC plate.  Right now the price of milling is roughly comparable to an OR+plate.  Thanks for the detailed write up and photos.

Edited by PCTShoe
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2 hours ago, PCTShoe said:

Thanks Earlan,

 

It looks like the stock plate and sights work with the holosun, not so much with the SRO.  I'm guessing a milled slide would be as light or lighter than the CZC plate.  Right now the price of using milling is roughly comparable an OR+plate.  Thanks for the detailed write up and photos.

They work with the SRO, but they're slow to find since they're so low, about the top 1/3 of the rear notch isn't blocked.

Not sure with a P10F, but my P10C weight came out identical after JagerWerks milled the RMR pocket, Glock dovetail, and front serrations.
 

IMG_4429.JPG

Edited by earlan357
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