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Dillion Press frame question


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  • 2 weeks later...

I’ve considered that but I also have wondered about finding a drill bit guide bid enough to work. I have  concern about the bronze lasting against the high load rate of the super 1050. Thoughts susgestions? Let’s hear what you got for ideas

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11 hours ago, ltdmstr said:

Bronze bearing material will last a long time.  And when it does wear, you can remove and replace.

 

I agree with bronze too.  You could also use Oilite bearings.  The are made from sintered bronze impregnated with mineral oil.

 

If that's the route you take, then get 3 or 4 spare bushing made at the same time.

Edited by RePete
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Bronze should last a long time on a manually operated machine like that.  I'm not sure you have any better alternatives unless there's enough material there to machine it out and fit roller bearings.  Or sell it off and replace it with the old style RL 1050, which has the big roller bearing bottom end.  That's a better arrangement, which is why they went back to that design on the new machines.

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l Use to do machine work before I retired,my first thought would be 17 4ph sst or 316 sst, 4140 st .The frame would have to be bored on a milling machine and the bushing done on a lathe and I would make the bushing to have a light press fit into the frame. The ram to bushing fit would be a five to ten thousands clearance that would give you enough room for lubrication.

Edited by Dwbsig
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Dwbsig what would your preferred choice be to make the bushing out of on that list of three that you presented? Then what would you use for lubrication grease or let’s say a synthetic multi weight engin oil?

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If it was me I would probably use what was available I believe any of the three would be as good or better than the frame. I would thing it would be cheaper to buy a new frame from Dillon unless you have a friend with a shop. You may can find a piece of pipe that could be machined to what you need which would cut down on the machine time. As far as lube I would just use 30 wt oil. It would be nice to just bore the bushing to get the fit you like between the ram and bushing something around five thousands to start and check the feel.

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What is the out of spec tolerance that we are dealing with here ? 

I’ve seen this situation before, you can  contact robar https://robarguns.com/custom-firearm-finishes/np3/

They can NP3 the ram and also do the frame. Not that you may need both of them done but you could choose from one to the other or both and explain to them the build up that you need to accomplish the proper tolerance.

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If you repair the Frame use something that won’t wear real quick it would be cheaper to replace the ram then to have to machine and replace another bushing or buy a frame. Find a couple shops and see what they will charge you for what your wanting, may be worth it don’t hurt to get a price.

Edited by Dwbsig
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Recent conversation with Dillon ---approx $800 just for a 1050 frame--don't know if he meant a complete rebuild of a worn-out lower. Best to call Dillon for a quote

Edited by 2tuf4u
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15 hours ago, Gomar83 said:

I talked with Dillon and they clam that if it’s out of spec they will only sell me a new frame at just shy of $1000.

Could you post pictures of the ram and the frame hole ?  Maybe take some measurements of both and provide those so we could just get an idea of what they’re calling out of spec  Thanks 

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the spec’s on the frame bore are 1.486” min and 1.489” max

mine on measuring the frame bore front to back and down 3/16” measures 1.491”

side to side same distance down measures 1.4895”

the ram measures 1.4845”

the back of the bore is towards the top of the picture, and that’s where the frame is out of spec. Dillon was correct when they said the back side of the ram is where the frame bore wears the most.

C05F79DF-C234-4A24-9965-D5253877B2E7.jpeg

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