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Taccom Extreme 9mm Bolt - Extractor Spring Insert, O-Ring Needed?


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I have a Taccom Extreme Bolt in my PCC Ar-9 rifle...  Works great...  I've replaced several firing pins, but never messed with the extractor.

 

Had a small jam where a couple or rounds bunched together by the chamber, so I thought I'd take the extractor out and check things out...  Didn't realize that there is an opening under the extractor that goes down to the firing pin...  Built up carbon can/could rub on the firing pin...  Cleaned that area out.

 

Also found an O-Ring and a black Extractor insert grouped with the extractor spring...   The O-Ring was chewed up, so I removed it, but replaced the black spring insert...  That really increased the extractor tension and made things worse, so I took the black extractor spring insert out and replaced the extractor with a new one along with a new extractor spring from Brownells.

 

Just found out that Brownells sells the black extractor spring insert...  and that Bravo Company USA sells the extractor, spring, and insert as a kit.

 

What's the best way to set up an extractor on a Taccom Extreme 9mm Bolt?  Use the black extractor spring insert...  use the O'ring...  and special brand?...  Anyone make a jig to tap in the roll pin?

 

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9 hours ago, RaylanGivens said:

I have a Taccom Extreme Bolt in my PCC Ar-9 rifle...  Works great...  I've replaced several firing pins, but never messed with the extractor.

 

Had a small jam where a couple or rounds bunched together by the chamber, so I thought I'd take the extractor out and check things out...  Didn't realize that there is an opening under the extractor that goes down to the firing pin...  Built up carbon can/could rub on the firing pin...  Cleaned that area out.

 

Also found an O-Ring and a black Extractor insert grouped with the extractor spring...   The O-Ring was chewed up, so I removed it, but replaced the black spring insert...  That really increased the extractor tension and made things worse, so I took the black extractor spring insert out and replaced the extractor with a new one along with a new extractor spring from Brownells.

 

Just found out that Brownells sells the black extractor spring insert...  and that Bravo Company USA sells the extractor, spring, and insert as a kit.

 

What's the best way to set up an extractor on a Taccom Extreme 9mm Bolt?  Use the black extractor spring insert...  use the O'ring...  and special brand?...  Anyone make a jig to tap in the roll pin?

 

I was having extracting problems with my taccom bolt with qc10 lower. I made sure my extractor was tuned to the bolt but was still getting stove pipe about every range session. 

 

I noticed that the bolt extractor was having a hard time holding onto a round. So I replaced the extractor spring with a milspec spring. I also used the I insert and put in a new o ring. The new spring is much stiffer.

 

I only have 200 or so rounds with the new spring but gun ran flawlessly. The bolt now holds onto a round much better.

 

I would also check your ejector to see if its turned to your bolt. If it's not, then that may be part of your issue.  

 

Place the bolt on a flat surface with the top in the up position.  Start the roll pin from the top with a nylon tipped hammer. Insert ejector and make sure holes line up. While holding ejector in place, keep the bolt on the flat surface.  Tap the roll pin through the ejector holes. Then finish with a roll pin punch!

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2 hours ago, Stymie12000 said:

I was having extracting problems with my taccom bolt with qc10 lower. I made sure my extractor was tuned to the bolt but was still getting stove pipe about every range session. 

 

I noticed that the bolt extractor was having a hard time holding onto a round. So I replaced the extractor spring with a milspec spring. I also used the I insert and put in a new o ring. The new spring is much stiffer.

 

I only have 200 or so rounds with the new spring but gun ran flawlessly. The bolt now holds onto a round much better.

 

I would also check your ejector to see if its turned to your bolt. If it's not, then that may be part of your issue.  

 

Place the bolt on a flat surface with the top in the up position.  Start the roll pin from the top with a nylon tipped hammer. Insert ejector and make sure holes line up. While holding ejector in place, keep the bolt on the flat surface.  Tap the roll pin through the ejector holes. Then finish with a roll pin punch!

 

Not sure what you mean by tuning the extractor to the bolt?

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7 hours ago, Stymie12000 said:

I made sure my extractor was tuned to the bolt but was still getting stove pipe about every range session. 

 

I would also check your ejector to see if its turned to your bolt. If it's not, then that may be part of your issue.  

 

How does one tune the extractor to the bolt?

If you mean check the extractor for proper tension I understand that, otherwise please explain. 

 

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9 minutes ago, bwikel said:

How does one tune the extractor to the bolt?

If you mean check the extractor for proper tension I understand that, otherwise please explain. 

 

 

They meant ejector...  and I think they were thinking of a .223 ejector that is part of the bolt...  Most 9mm PCC bolts use an external ejector that's part of the lower.

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Yes, ejector. The part that is connected to the lower or mag block. 

 

With the ar9 sometimes the ejector needs to be bent so the top of the ejector and inside of the ejector is barely touching the bolt. That way it is making positive contact with the empty case and ejecting it properly.  The other part of the equation is the extractor.  If you dont have enough extractor tension or a bad extractor, you can also get poor case ejection. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stymie12000
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  • 3 weeks later...

We are finding out that some (if not most) of the extractors are actually hitting the back of the round and not snapping around the rim. Here at TACCOM, we've been prepping all of our extractors on a scotch brite wheel to get rid of the front flat and blending a nice radius so that the extractor does snap around the rim. As for using the O-ring or not? If you can use it....then use it. If there is too much tension, remove it. It's a pretty binary decision......it either works or it doesn't

 

Hope this helps.

Tim

extractor.jpg.6c89b040bc8a0d0e8fca00ef00fedcc6.jpg

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I ordered the BCM upgraded spring kit.  I DO NOT recommend using it.  To stiff..  Stay with milspec.  I used the O-ring.  Feels fine.

After 20K rounds, my extractor still looks great.  No issues.

 

What is the pin?  I ordered  a standard AR extractor pin.  It doesn't appear to be the same as what is in this bolt.

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4 hours ago, longbeard said:

I ordered the BCM upgraded spring kit.  I DO NOT recommend using it.  To stiff..  Stay with milspec.  I used the O-ring.  Feels fine.

After 20K rounds, my extractor still looks great.  No issues.

 

What is the pin?  I ordered  a standard AR extractor pin.  It doesn't appear to be the same as what is in this bolt.

 

It's a 3/32" diameter roll pin...  also called 'Tension Pins'...  You can get them at a hardware store or order them from Amazon...  I'm currently using a 3/32" x 1/2" long pin...  It seems a bit short...  I had to punch it down deeper to make sure it seated below the extractor...  Picked up a few 5/8" long pins for spares.

 

Get a 3/32" roll pin starter punch while you're at it...  It makes starting the pin much easier.

 

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I've had some extractor and ejection issues also, with a Taccom bolt. Tim sent me a re-profiled extractor and the extraction issue was resolved, but still struggling with ejection! I'm running a LeadStar upper and lower and Taccom bolt. I've tried different buffers, springs, etc and still can't get it to run with out jamming up with none ejected casings??? Factory ammo and reloads same problem?

can an extractor have to much tension and cause poor ejection? Or is it most likely the ejector in the lower?

Edited by Leadringer
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22 hours ago, TRUBL said:

We are finding out that some (if not most) of the extractors are actually hitting the back of the round and not snapping around the rim. Here at TACCOM, we've been prepping all of our extractors on a scotch brite wheel to get rid of the front flat and blending a nice radius so that the extractor does snap around the rim. As for using the O-ring or not? If you can use it....then use it. If there is too much tension, remove it. It's a pretty binary decision......it either works or it doesn't

 

Hope this helps.

Tim

extractor.jpg.6c89b040bc8a0d0e8fca00ef00fedcc6.jpg

 

Will a replacement extractor be available from Taccom for the less mechanically inclined?

 

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1 hour ago, STIboy said:

 

Will a replacement extractor be available from Taccom for the less mechanically inclined?

 

You'll be regulated to going to a gunsmith then I suppose.......but for most others, it's an easy replacement

 

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13 hours ago, Leadringer said:

I've had some extractor and ejection issues also, with a Taccom bolt. Tim sent me a re-profiled extractor and the extraction issue was resolved, but still struggling with ejection! I'm running a LeadStar upper and lower and Taccom bolt. I've tried different buffers, springs, etc and still can't get it to run with out jamming up with none ejected casings??? Factory ammo and reloads same problem?

can an extractor have to much tension and cause poor ejection? Or is it most likely the ejector in the lower?

bunny fart reloads? Are you getting stove pipes?

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1 hour ago, TRUBL said:

You'll be regulated to going to a gunsmith then I suppose.......but for most others, it's an easy replacement

 

 

Hmmm.  Just saw 9mm extractors on the Taccom web site described as:

 

"We take a mil spec extractor, and polish the leading surface so that you are assured smooth function. We’ve found that this single operation is an important process to help with feeding the round into the chamber while allowing the extractor to slip over the rim in a smooth, quick motion."

 

Just ordered 2.

 

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22 hours ago, TRUBL said:

bunny fart reloads? Are you getting stove pipes?

It happens with all ammo, factory and reloads. It will happen more with lower velocity rounds.  The spent casing doesn't get thrown out of the action.  So, end up with new cartridge trying to go into battery and spent casing all jammed up in the action. I literately cant go 10 rounds with out it happening.

 

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Check to make sure that your ejector is as close as possible to the center of the receiver as it can be.......it's actually ok if the ejector is lightly rubbing on the bolt. As a rule, if the tension on the case is good, the bolt is coming back back enough......then the only thing it should be is that the case is not hitting the ejector properly.

 

Tim

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On 1/3/2019 at 7:35 AM, STIboy said:

Will a replacement extractor be available from Taccom for the less mechanically inclined?

 

 

Originally posted a link to a standard extractor that I used...  It works well, but I would go with the Taccom tuned extractor that is now available...  I have one in a new Taccom bolt I just got for a second rifle...  Tried it in my original, complete rifle and it works well.

 

Edited by RaylanGivens
Taccom now sells extractors
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On 1/4/2019 at 7:47 AM, TRUBL said:

Check to make sure that your ejector is as close as possible to the center of the receiver as it can be.......it's actually ok if the ejector is lightly rubbing on the bolt. As a rule, if the tension on the case is good, the bolt is coming back back enough......then the only thing it should be is that the case is not hitting the ejector properly.

 

Tim

I'll give that a try. Thanks

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On 1/3/2019 at 9:27 AM, TRUBL said:

You'll be regulated to going to a gunsmith then I suppose.......but for most others, it's an easy replacement

 

My extractors came in, and I wound up having to do the mods on my current ones instead.  It seems the new extractor I tried was wider (0.2465") than my original extractor (0.2440"), and wouldn't fit into the extractor channel.  I'll test the old/modded extractor hopefully soon just to make sure it corrects the problem of the occasional failure to extract (which I've had).  Should be able to trim down the width on the new extractors later...

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I'm having problems with my Taccom Extreme 9mm bolt and my QC10 upper/lower. It extracts just fine, but the bolt gets physically locked in place partially still in the buffer tube and partially in the upper at least once or twice every single time I go to the range. I can't seem to figure out what it's catching on and it only happens every now and then. It happens most often after the last round bolt hold open mechanism locks the bolt back and I go to release it. It gets stuck while flying forward. However, it did actually happen to me once during normal cycling while firing too.

I have to take a flathead screwdriver and pop the takedown pin out, and then it shoots forward as soon as the pin comes out. So, I believe it's catching on something and then tilting vertically and getting stuck on the takedown pin somehow, but I can't seem to figure it out. I also took it to a local gunsmith who wasn't able to figure it out.

I bought the Taccom bolt because the JP 9mm bolt I bought wasn't resetting my AR Gold trigger reliably. The Taccom bolt solved that problem for me, but then introduced this new problem.

Anyone have any ideas? Would really appreciate some help with this. @TRUBL have you heard of this issue before?

Edited by avastcosmicarena
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