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550C Powder Bar Adjustment - Tightening?


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Since I am a newby, I am pretty anal about accurate powder measurement.  I'm in the middle of loading a boat load (500) .40 S&W now using 180 gr. FMJ bullets over 4.5 gr Win 231.  4.5 feels better than 4.1, which is the low end for this combination.

 

I have gotten in the habit of verifying the powder charge pretty often.  I start out each session by measuring a several loads, and even go so far as dropping up to 10 loads on the scale for an average.

I then check the load about every 20-25 rounds.  I usually find myself having to fine tune the powder bar as much as .10+/-.  Usually the measurement goes heavier, sometimes up to 4.7, but usually in the 4.6 range.

 

I use blue press on knobs, so it's easy to adjust, but am wondering what would happen if I didn't check so often.

 

Is there a way of tightening or locking down the powder adjustment screw?

 

I thought about the micrometer adjustment adapters but I have 4 quick change kits for different calibers so we are talking a few $$.

Edited by jim6918
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15 minutes ago, jim6918 said:

Since I am a newby, I am pretty anal about accurate powder measurement.  I'm in the middle of loading a boat load (500) .40 S&W now using 180 gr. FMJ bullets over 4.5 gr Win 231.  4.5 feels better than 4.1, which is the low end for this combination.

 

I have gotten in the habit of verifying the powder charge pretty often.  I start out each session by measuring a several loads, and even go so far as dropping up to 10 loads on the scale for an average.

I then check the load about every 20-25 rounds.  I usually find myself having to fine tune the powder bar as much as .10+/-.  Usually the measurement goes heavier, sometimes up to 4.7, but usually in the 4.6 range.

 

I use blue press on knobs, so it's easy to adjust, but am wondering what would happen if I didn't check so often.

 

Is there a way of tightening or locking down the powder adjustment screw?

 

I thought about the micrometer adjustment adapters but I have 4 quick change kits for different calibers so we are talking a few $$.

This is one reason I switched to the uniqutek. Mine moved quite a bit and had to be monitored. It was also a PITA to make fine adjustments with those course threads.

  I guess you could try Teflon tape to make it harder to turn. But seriously get one uniquetek unit and try it. Awesome upgrade!

Edited by Sarge
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3 minutes ago, jhgtyre said:

The screw isn't moving.  The powder measure is volumetric so the charge will vary by =/- .1 in either direction.  This does not cause a problem.

The screw does indeed move over time

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I made a baffle to sit on top of the crappy dillon one. Polished up the inside funnel and stoned all moving parts of the powder bar so they were smooth and flat. Unhooked the powder bar safety lever so no more jerky action of the powder bar and added a couple of the wife's elastic hair bands to return it to start position. Has helped my drops considerably.

Edited by Joedirt199
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This is one reason I switched to the uniqutek. Mine moved quite a bit and had to be monitored. It was also a PITA to make fine adjustments with those course threads.
  I guess you could try Teflon tape to make it harder to turn. But seriously get one uniquetek unit and try it. Awesome upgrade!

I saw some on eBay! Cheaper.


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I made a baffle to sit on top of the crappy dillon one. Polished up the inside funnel and stoned all moving parts of the powder bar so they were smooth and flat. Unhooked the powder bar safety lever so no more jerky action of the powder bar and added a couple of the wife's elastic hair bands to return it to start position. Has helped my drops considerably.

Great tip.


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I can run the same load more consistent than my friend on his 650.  If you are new, focus on doing the same thing every time.  If you have a hard time getting a primer in and give it a little extra power, the next powder charge maybe a little different.  This is not a problem with most ammo depending on the precision requirements if you are not on the edge pressure wise.  You will probably smooth out as the thousands of rounds go by.  Focus on consistency in technique, not rounds per hour.  I get very little drift over time on my tool heads.

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