GregInAtl Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 I am thinking of upgrading my Dillon 550b to the 650. I've had it for about 5 yrs and has served me well. At the time I got the 550, I thought, "well the 650 isn't that much more money", so almost got a 650. I was told that you don't get the full benefit of the 650 unless you get a few accessories, like the case feeder and a few other things, so you may as well add that onto the cost. I was told that if you don't want to buy the additional accessories, then you may just as well just get the 550b, so I did, and I am happy with it. But now, I can better afford the additional expense of a 650. So, what factors should i use to determine if it is worth stepping up to a $650 (1050 is not an option). I know changing calibers is more hassle on the 650, which was a factor in me getting the 550 earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GR8GIFT Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 I'd recommend keep the 550 set up for small or large primers, get the 650 setup with case feeder and what ever size primers you use most often. I have 2 650's that I swap case feeder between one set up for .38 special one for .45 ACP. I also still have my 550 setup I use for small runs of calibers I don't shoot often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkheard Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 If you've got the real estate to keep the 550, I'd do it. I don't. I thought seriously about a 650 when I bought my 550 in 2011. I was afraid of the progressive aspect, so I did the 550. 4 years later, I added a case feeder to the 550. It's an add on that is twitchy at best. I got a great deal on a 650 with case feeder and was really happy with it. Then I started shooting revolver and needed deep primer insertion. The "push" seating with the 650 never got me what I wanted. I've since replaced it with a used 1050 which seats on the down stroke. Because of space constraints, the 550 and 650 have been sold for at least 80% of Dillon new. The 650 caliber changes are simple compared to the 1050. I'd had have stuck with the 650, if not for the primer seating. It's a great press. Had I the space, I'd have a 650 and the 1050. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 I've been running my 550 since 1986, and still see no reason to upgrade....Unless you only have like 15 minutes a week to load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaques Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 I had the 550b then upgraded to the 650xl and I could not be happier. I wish I would have did it sooner. I still have the 550, but it never gets any use. It just sits there all lonely while the 650 see all the action. Once you get use to the case feeder and bullet feeder is VERY hard to go back doing everything manually. The only advantage I see on the 550 is that when you mess up you can index the case plate backwards if needed. By all means upgrade and if possible keep the 550 for odd ball stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 On Saturday, July 01, 2017 at 5:30 PM, GregInAtl said: I am thinking of upgrading my Dillon 550b to the 650. I've had it for about 5 yrs and has served me well. At the time I got the 550, I thought, "well the 650 isn't that much more money", so almost got a 650. I was told that you don't get the full benefit of the 650 unless you get a few accessories, like the case feeder and a few other things, so you may as well add that onto the cost. I was told that if you don't want to buy the additional accessories, then you may just as well just get the 550b, so I did, and I am happy with it. But now, I can better afford the additional expense of a 650. So, what factors should i use to determine if it is worth stepping up to a $650 (1050 is not an option). I know changing calibers is more hassle on the 650, which was a factor in me getting the 550 earlier. If you can afford it, keep the 550 and add the 650! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregInAtl Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 1 hour ago, rustybayonet said: If you can afford it, keep the 550 and add the 650! That's exactly what I am doing. The 650 is on order and will be on my door step next week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 22 hours ago, GregInAtl said: That's exactly what I am doing. The 650 is on order and will be on my door step next week +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubbadoc Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 Good call. Do what GR8GFT suggested with the primers especially if you run a lot of different calibers. I was using a Hornday LNL and then picked up a 650. I use the 650 for the high volume rounds but have kept the LNL for those occasional calibers that I was already set up for (270, 45 Colt, 44 Mag, 500SW) as I can put up with the issues I had with the LNL to save the price of buying all that is needed to convert calibers on the 650 The primer change over on the 650 is actually easier than a lot of folks make it out to be so don't worry about that if you need to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safeactionjackson Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 Switching the primers system over on the 650 is a snap, if space is an issue you can probably migrate everything to the 650. Upgrading for me would be driven by volume loaded, and the time associated. The xl650 is a great press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregInAtl Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 9 hours ago, bubbadoc said: Good call. Do what GR8GFT suggested with the primers especially if you run a lot of different calibers. I was using a Hornday LNL and then picked up a 650. I use the 650 for the high volume rounds but have kept the LNL for those occasional calibers that I was already set up for (270, 45 Colt, 44 Mag, 500SW) as I can put up with the issues I had with the LNL to save the price of buying all that is needed to convert calibers on the 650 The primer change over on the 650 is actually easier than a lot of folks make it out to be so don't worry about that if you need to do it I really only load 2 calibers, 45acp and 9mm (although I have 38 spl dies) and I don't switch that often. I may just end up selling the 550b and just having one press, a 650. I'll wait until I change calibers on the 650 to decide whether to have just a 650 or both a 650 and 550 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 So here is what will happen. Once you load 100 rounds via the casefed 650, the 550 will be posted here for sale - trust me. The change over is sooooo worth it. I don't load on a 650 any longer ( upgraded to a 1050 ) but you will want the complete priming system for both large & small. It is the only real PITA to changing from 9mm to 45 ACP. Or you can just load SPP 45 ACP and avoid the need altogether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
858 Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Upgrade to the 650 and strip down the 550 for hand throwing powder and all manual operation loading. It's terrible doing load development on a 650, the 550 is also better for doing precision rifle cartridges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Switching over the primer on a 550 and 650 is super easy. I think the advantages are the 5th station, case feeder and auto index. I have never used a case feeder on my 550 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diablodawg Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 No. The 650 is garbage. Wish i had kept my 550. The only advantage is a station for a bullet feeder. Get a 1050 and stop swaging separately. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan550 Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 ^^^^^^^^ This is the only time in the history of man that you'll read "650" and "garbage" in the same sentence!! Alan~^~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregInAtl Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 (edited) Quote No. The 650 is garbage. Wish i had kept my 550. I doubt this stops me from getting a 650. Besides, I already have a 550 that is not going anywhere, it will just have a new companion next week. Edited July 16, 2017 by GregInAtl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregInAtl Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Does anyone know if the bolts and other hardware are provided with the purchase of a 650 or do I have to get them at hardware store. I was thinking you had to purchase the mounting hardware from Dillon separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Currently Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) It either came with my 650 or my strong mount. Been too long, I don't remember. Let me go check the manual. EDIT: Manual says it's optional. Item 14 on the picture/BOM. It must of been with my strong mount kits. Recommend you buy 'Nylock' nuts. Edited July 25, 2017 by Currently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9x45 Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Well, actually I did upgrade the old 550 with a roller handle.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregInAtl Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) 12 minutes ago, 9x45 said: Well, actually I did upgrade the old 550 with a roller handle.... I ended up adding a 650 and keeping the 550b. I set up my 650 last weekend. I took the roller handle off the 550 and put it on the 650 and put the stock handle on the 550. Still trying to work out the kinks with the 650 Edited July 28, 2017 by GregInAtl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) Biggest hint for new 650 users: two small boxes next to the press. One with sized and deprimed brass, the other with tumbled casa you scoop out of the casefeeder. If a jam occurs at the powder station, slip a case out of box #1 into that spot once you clear it, and the press won't spit a primer down the ramp since you've given it something to prime. Ditto for a jam at the casefeeder causing an empty station #1, and a case out of box number two. When clearing jams, the trick is to keep the shellpate from indexing, and also not advancing the primer feed. Basically you get really good at clearing the jams your 550 had... one-handed. So the shellplate doesn't come crashing down. Edited July 28, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregInAtl Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 5 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said: Biggest hint for new 650 users: two small boxes next to the press. One with sized and deprimed brass, the other with tumbled casa you scoop out of the casefeeder. If a jam occurs at the powder station, slip a case out of box #1 into that spot once you clear it, and the press won't spit a primer down the ramp since you've given it something to prime. Ditto for a jam at the casefeeder causing an empty station #1, and a case out of box number two. When clearing jams, the trick is to keep the shellpate from indexing, and also not advancing the primer feed. Basically you get really good at clearing the jams your 550 had... one-handed. So the shellplate doesn't come crashing down. Thanks for the tip. I am having a little trouble getting used to so many functions being controlled by the machine. I'm getting tired of cleaning primers and gun powder out of the ramp and gun powder out from underneath the shell plate where the 650 dumped powder into brass with no primer. I should be OK after a few more days of loading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) @GregInAtl You'll learn to feel for lack of primer every time you cycle it soon, which usually happens during/after some kind of jam. Anytime you feel zero priming effort, pull the case and look at it. Either it was a loose pocket the primer slid right in, and you put it back and keep rocking... or you pitch that case and replace it with a sized & primed one or leave the station empty. You'll stop spilling power after some practice with the new machine - once you figure out how to FEEL a missing primer before you fill that case with powder. You're exactly right: all those automated widgets can get out of synch when you clear a jam if you're not very careful. I recommend next time: 1. Before loading primers, run 25 or so pieces of brass through station 1 then pull it out of the machine. Set this deprimed brass aside to replace cases that get pitched during a jam to keep the machine full. 2. The next 25, size them and press a new primer into place. Set those aside too. Use them to replace a case in station 2 when you crush a primer or the like. 3. Also provide 25 or so cases that you'd have dumped into the casefeeder to load. These replace a 380 that snuck into place of a 9mm at station 1, or when a case gets crushed by the sizing die if you don't have it lined up perfectly. Etc. I keep all three types lying around in separate small bins when loading. Edited July 28, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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