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Shadow in CO with zeroing issue (help)


Dutchman195

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Just got this thing set up last night and ran it in a practice session. No matter what I was doing I could not get it to be zero'd. Seems I maxed out the elevation knob all the way to the top and the dot was still about 2.5 inches above the bullet impact. Any thoughts? 


Is there a way to put a spacer under the back of the optic to get the back end to sit higher so the dot could be zero'd?

Shadow with Dot.PNG

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when the slide was cut, did they cut parallel to the barrel or to the top of slide?

needs to be cut parallel to barrel which is about 1 degree cut from slide rails.

Edited by eerw
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I was turning them in accordance to the arrow on the optic. I believe it was UP (CCW, guessing...dont have the gun in front of me). 

When I first shot it I was getting hits on the lower right C/D border of a USPSA Target. After chasing it around I got it to holding the dot on the A in the A zone but the gun was still shooting low.

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Just now, Dutchman195 said:

I was turning them in accordance to the arrow on the optic. I believe it was UP (CCW, guessing...dont have the gun in front of me). 

When I first shot it I was getting hits on the lower right C/D border of a USPSA Target. After chasing it around I got it to holding the dot on the A in the A zone but the gun was still shooting low.

What distance is the target?

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Do you have another gun with a top rail? Ie ar-15?

I'd try mounting it with the included picatinny rail mount and try zeroing it. If it zeros easy then you know you have a installation issue, if it doesn't then you know that you have a defective sight.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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56 minutes ago, bsand said:

Do you have another gun with a top rail? Ie ar-15?

I'd try mounting it with the included picatinny rail mount and try zeroing it. If it zeros easy then you know you have a installation issue, if it doesn't then you know that you have a defective sight.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

I will try this tonight. I pumped about 150 through the gun last night and it consistently stayed @ a few inches below the actual dot. Like all great stories, Optics nationals is in 2 weeks so if it doesnt get fixed this week I am just going to run with it and learn to aim a little higher (yikes)

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Not sure if this will help but if it was me I'd......

  • take the sight off the gun. make sure the mounting surfaces are clean. remount sight.
  • make sure barrel is clean.
  • use ammo I've used before and trust.
  • turn adjustment knobs all the way one way, then all the way the other. then return them to a middle point between the two.
  • tap the sight slightly.
  • place a target with an easy to discern aiming point at 10 yards.
  • rest the gun. shoot with the very best trigger pull possible.
  • shoot ten rounds. look at pattern and discern where you want to go next. if shots are all over the place, then you probably need someone else to shoot it. (or you didn't mount it solidly)
  • most of the sights we use in CO the adjustment that says "down" moves the bullet impact down. you're moving the bullets around, not the dot. double check your manual or figure it out from trial and error.
  • make an appropriate adjustment from your ten shot group. have the target repaired or replaced such that you still have an uncluttered aiming point. tap the sight lightly.
  • shoot ten more rounds.
  • repeat this until you have the gun shooting where you want at ten yards.
  • repeat the process at 20 yards from the step "place a target with an easy to discern aiming point at ___ yards"

Double check, reduce variables, be precise. Yes, there will be a small amount of mechanical offset at close distances. Depending on your bullet, recoil spring and distance shooting you might even get a zero at two distances and impacts high/low on either side, similar to a 50/200 yard 5.56 zero on an AR. (though this should be slight and not dramatic)

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4 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

Not sure if this will help but if it was me I'd......

  • take the sight off the gun. make sure the mounting surfaces are clean. remount sight.
  • make sure barrel is clean.
  • use ammo I've used before and trust.
  • turn adjustment knobs all the way one way, then all the way the other. then return them to a middle point between the two.
  • tap the sight slightly.
  • place a target with an easy to discern aiming point at 10 yards.
  • rest the gun. shoot with the very best trigger pull possible.
  • shoot ten rounds. look at pattern and discern where you want to go next. if shots are all over the place, then you probably need someone else to shoot it. (or you didn't mount it solidly)
  • most of the sights we use in CO the adjustment that says "down" moves the bullet impact down. you're moving the bullets around, not the dot. double check your manual or figure it out from trial and error.
  • make an appropriate adjustment from your ten shot group. have the target repaired or replaced such that you still have an uncluttered aiming point. tap the sight lightly.
  • shoot ten more rounds.
  • repeat this until you have the gun shooting where you want at ten yards.
  • repeat the process at 20 yards from the step "place a target with an easy to discern aiming point at ___ yards"

Double check, reduce variables, be precise. Yes, there will be a small amount of mechanical offset at close distances. Depending on your bullet, recoil spring and distance shooting you might even get a zero at two distances and impacts high/low on either side, similar to a 50/200 yard 5.56 zero on an AR. (though this should be slight and not dramatic)

this is excellent

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I mounted a Venom to a Shadow Target 2 using the CZC Slide Racker, aluminum dove tail mount,  and it zeroed without issue.  I know it's not apples to apples, but that at least tells you that the sight should go low enough if your cut isn't angled since the dovetail mount rides about 1-1.5mm above the slide - almost like a floating platform with the only contact being in the dovetail.

 

 

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I'd recommend getting a laser bore sight to help with zeroing the dot.  This will allow you to mechanically zero the dot in your house, and then make minor corrections at the range.  The dots will likely be offset when you reconfirm with the bore sight back at the house, but as long as you know the offset by a known distance you can confirm your zero at the house.

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10 hours ago, JWard79 said:

I'd recommend getting a laser bore sight to help with zeroing the dot.  This will allow you to mechanically zero the dot in your house, and then make minor corrections at the range.  The dots will likely be offset when you reconfirm with the bore sight back at the house, but as long as you know the offset by a known distance you can confirm your zero at the house.

This is great advice.  I have a Lasermax (I think) and they are invaluable, especially if you're sighting in expensive rifle rounds.  They aren't that much.  I pretty much had my FF3 sighted in on my .22 on the first shot.

Edited by LeviSS
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Go to autoparts store and buy a pack of GM starter shims, use the thinnest one, probably 1/32", cut down to width of slide and unscrew the optic, slide the shim under the back of the optic and then retighten screws. That should give you enough angle to zero the sight.

An optic cut needs at least 1 degree of rake so that you don't run out of adjustment, the shop that did yours probably cut it flat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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one other off the wall thing that happened to me:

I tried mounting my original deltapoint to the machined slide on my shadow with the screws supplied by the machine shop but the screw heads were too wide to make even contact all the way around the screw head.   Only the rearmost part of the screw head was contacting the slightly raised part of the sight behind the screw holes.    This warped the sight slightly and made it difficult to sight in.   Once I turned the screw heads to a narrower diameter (by chucking in drill and turning against a file) the screws now seat evenly and the sight lines up well for easy sight in.

Eric

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5 minutes ago, MrPostman said:

Go to autoparts store and buy a pack of GM starter shims, use the thinnest one, probably 1/32", cut down to width of slide and unscrew the optic, slide the shim under the back of the optic and then retighten screws. That should give you enough angle to zero the sight.

An optic cut needs at least 1 degree of rake so that you don't run out of adjustment, the shop that did yours probably cut it flat.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Just did this last night actually. Would go zero today but broke the slide stop last night at the range on the first shot. Will try to zero tomorrow with this. A friend tried this with some trigonometry and figured out how thick the shims need to be.  

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