MemphisMechanic Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 Huh. That's an interesting idea... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superluckycat Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 I just recently started duct taping the hammer to the beaver tail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Yeah gave me an idea was thinking Velcro tie wrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hav3n Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 On 2/4/2017 at 5:40 PM, First said: When I wanna practice everything but draws I just tie down my hammer to the beaver tail with a straightened out paper clip. Seems to work well for me and, I'm not for sure but, I don't think it'll hurt the gun. I think it feels almost the same as SA. Awesome idea. I'll give this a shot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taxil343 Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 On 2/4/2017 at 4:40 PM, First said: When I wanna practice everything but draws I just tie down my hammer to the beaver tail with a straightened out paper clip. Seems to work well for me and, I'm not for sure but, I don't think it'll hurt the gun. I think it feels almost the same as SA. Tried this over the weekend... I like it. Thanks for the idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Just a quick follow-up. After polishing the fpb and fpb hole and firing pin hole and repolishing the sides of the hammer and the frame where the hammer touches, it ate 300 rounds of my Dillon 550 reloads without any issues (wsp primers). No double-strikes or anything. Of course putting in the factory 16lb hammer spring probably didn't hurt either. I hate the factory spring and can't wait for the PD 15.5 one if/when it comes out. And perhaps with a more thorough polishing job I can go back to having the PD 14# or 13# reliably ignite my ammo. One question though. Did you guys polish the inside and outside of the PD optimized firing pin spring? I didn't but thought that might also help things out when I go back in for another round of smoothing things out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) EDIT: Polish the inside and outside of the HANNMER spring. And it's frame hole. And the hammer strut. The Patriot 15.5 is on their website now. Mine shipped this morning. The crucial things to polish for reliability are the hammer and strut, it's hole and the pins that go through them, and the hammer spring and hole. In the slide, polish the firing pin and hole, then the block and it's hole. I don't polish the firing pin return spring. Everything that moves when your sear lets the hammer forward to fire the gun. Edited February 8, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 2 hours ago, V2plus25 said: One question though. Did you guys polish the inside and outside of the PD optimized firing pin spring? I didn't but thought that might also help things out when I go back in for another round of smoothing things out. I don't touch the firing pin return spring. But.... i DO "correct" the extractor. The part that the pin goes thru can protrude into the firing pin channel enough to cause problems. I file the curve flatter and mirror polish that part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 (edited) This... works amazingly well. Peel the electrical tape off when you're done. Where you position the hammer affects how far the trigger wiggles when you "dryfire" single action shooting. Edited February 8, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Video time! Cock the hammer. Use electrical tape tensioned so that the hammer drops a millimeter or so toward the half-cock notch when you dryfire the gun. Enjoy a longer (but still short) SA trigger pull. I like the fact that it's longer; I would rather come off the face of the trigger in live fire than fail to reset it. That's my current problem. I'm a triggerfreezing monster at high speed when tension creeps in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjmagee67 Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I cock the hammer and put on the safety. Closest thing you are going to get to SA trigger in dry fire. Did it on my CZ and do it on my Tanfos. It hasn't hurt the gun yet. Personally unless you are mashing the trigger with every ounce of strength you have I don't see how it would hurt you gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 2 hours ago, mjmagee67 said: I cock the hammer and put on the safety. Closest thing you are going to get to SA trigger in dry fire. Did it on my CZ and do it on my Tanfos. It hasn't hurt the gun yet. Personally unless you are mashing the trigger with every ounce of strength you have I don't see how it would hurt you gun. I don't want to make a habit of handling the gun without strong downward pressure, riding the safeties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 ^ this. I even put the safety on when dry firing DA first shot. If I get lazy I'll know right away.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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