S 1050 Decapping Issue"

[RickT]

New 1050 per my other thread.  The only press issue I'm encountering is a number of once-fired cases (lubed) that are not being decapped.  I know the common fix is to round off the end of the pin; I've tried putting a slight chamfer on the end of the pin without success.

What I don't understand is how a primer sticking to the end of the pin and being pull back up toward the case can get stuck in the case and permit the shell plate to rotate.  I sometimes have a primer stick on my LNL, but the first indication is that I cannot advance the shell plate; usually a simple shake of the case dislodges the pin.  What's happening with the 1050 is the case gets to the swager and is slammed up into the case.  I've googled quite a bit, but no explanation is forthcoming from the interweb.  Can someone explain what is happening and what the fix might be?  lllll

Every other station in the press is working just fine and for the RF100 that's another story that will require a call to Dillon with primers flipping over at the very entry to the tube.

[haiedras]

What decapping die are you using? And how are you prepping your cases prior to reloading? And how often are you running into the decapping issue? 

I ran into the decapping issue with the standard dillon die every so often where the die wasn't decapping the primer for some reason. I haven't had that issue with the Lee standard and U-dies.

If you're wet tumbling your brass, I've read that that could cause primer sucking issues on the decap station. 

There are a few of us in the SF Bay Area with 1050s if you need someone to take a look at it in person. 

[Kraj]

I use the U die, so lee decaping pins. I filed mine off not quite to a point but at an angle. 

https://goo.gl/photos/MiBwYiqazjkYm9fD8

 

I'll upload a better picture when I get home, but that fixed the same issue for me

[RickT]

I should have been clearer in in original post.  I'm using the "stock" new style Dillon decapper.  I've seen the issue with both polished once-fired brass and my regular tumbled brass.  I'll try my Lee decapper/sizer which has been almost flawless on my LNL.  As I indicated I can't understand how the pierced primer is pulled so far into the primer pocket as not to stop the press.

A picture of a filed pin would we valuable.  I'm 50 miles south of San Jose so in-person assistance might be a bit impractical, but I appreciate the suggestion in that regard.  I should be able to get this one thing going after >90K rounds on my other press.

 

[MeatPuppet]

I got frustrated with the same issue.  I went to a Lee Universal Decapper and a Squirrel Daddy hardened decapping pin.  Problem solved.

Then again, I process brass as a separate operation.

[TennJeep1618]

I've had more trouble on my 1050 when using Lee sizing/decapping dies than with Dillon dies. It seemed like the Lee decapping pins weren't long enough to push the primers all the way out, but the spring loaded feature of the Dillon dies works well for me.

[RickT]

I agree about the Lee die.  Tried it and it's not long enough.  I did round out the pin on the Dillon die and it's better.  Plus, I'm catching issues which doesn't slow things down too much.  The powder die with Unitek measure is unbelievably consistent.  I'm using my Redding micrometer seater and Lee FCD which have proven (to me) to be very solid.

[gregdavidl]

I use the Dillon die.  Be sure the de-capping pin is adjusted all the way down.  I bottom it out (in a case) and then back off a 1/2 turn or so.

[RePete]

12 hours ago, RickT said:

New 1050 per my other thread.  The only press issue I'm encountering is a number of once-fired cases (lubed) that are not being decapped.  I know the common fix is to round off the end of the pin; I've tried putting a slight chamfer on the end of the pin without success.

What I don't understand is how a primer sticking to the end of the pin and being pull back up toward the case can get stuck in the case and permit the shell plate to rotate.  I sometimes have a primer stick on my LNL, but the first indication is that I cannot advance the shell plate; usually a simple shake of the case dislodges the pin.  What's happening with the 1050 is the case gets to the swager and is slammed up into the case.  I've googled quite a bit, but no explanation is forthcoming from the interweb.  Can someone explain what is happening and what the fix might be?  lllll

Every other station in the press is working just fine and for the RF100 that's another story that will require a call to Dillon with primers flipping over at the very entry to the tube.

Read my post here.

 

 

[Kraj]

9 hours ago, RickT said:

I should have been clearer in in original post.  I'm using the "stock" new style Dillon decapper.  I've seen the issue with both polished once-fired brass and my regular tumbled brass.  I'll try my Lee decapper/sizer which has been almost flawless on my LNL.  As I indicated I can't understand how the pierced primer is pulled so far into the primer pocket as not to stop the press.

A picture of a filed pin would we valuable.  I'm 50 miles south of San Jose so in-person assistance might be a bit impractical, but I appreciate the suggestion in that regard.  I should be able to get this one thing going after >90K rounds on my other press.

 

I have a similar story, on my lnl i had no problems and then when i switched the udie to the 1050 i had issues with primers getting sucked back up into the pocket. Thats the best picture i could get. Half is filed off almost to a point, but the  point that hits the primer is still flat. Is probably half the size it was before i filled at the point. I went to having anywhere from 5-12 sticking per 100 to 1000s of rounds loaded without one.

Edited December 12, 2016 by Kraj

[benos]

6 hours ago, gregdavidl said:

I use the Dillon die.  Be sure the de-capping pin is adjusted all the way down.  I bottom it out (in a case) and then back off a 1/2 turn or so.

Definitely check that.

[ebg3]

If you are not using the swage station, put a universal decapping die there.  I'm using a Lee 45 acp sizing die in my second station (loading 9mm, 38sc, and 40).  I have not had a primer get by while using two deprimers.

[Expflier]

I've had more trouble on my 1050 when using Lee sizing/decapping dies than with Dillon dies. It seemed like the Lee decapping pins weren't long enough to push the primers all the way out, but the spring loaded feature of the Dillon dies works well for me.

I got tired of replacing the pins on my Dillion die and swapped to the universal lee with the hardened pin. Had the same issue as Tennjeep until I ground an 1/8 inch +- off the bottom of the die which effectively makes the pin a little longer. I process brass at 2400 rph and haven't broken a pin yet. 

[Quirk]

Never had this problem on my 1050 when using the Dillon decap/resize die. 

What caliber are you reloading (I have no idea if that is relevant, tho)?

My tangent question is why 'sharpening' the end of the decap pin would help? Wouldn't that make it more likely to pierce the primer and thereby stick to the pin?

Q

[Kraj]

I never used the dillion die. I use the U die that uses Lee's decaping pins because it sizes the brass a little smaller. On my Hornady press I had no problems with primers but on the 1050 they wouldn't fall all the way out, get pushed in by the swage and then jam up the priming step. Filing the pin solved my problem for the last 2k rounds. All these experience is 9mm

2 hours ago, Quirk said:

Never had this problem on my 1050 when using the Dillon decap/resize die. 

What caliber are you reloading (I have no idea if that is relevant, tho)?

My tangent question is why 'sharpening' the end of the decap pin would help? Wouldn't that make it more likely to pierce the primer and thereby stick to the pin?

Q

 

[RickT]

The partial chisel point seems to have done the job - 100 flawless rounds from the same batch of once-fired.  I encountered one berdan primer, but you can feel those.  Now for the fine tuning of the RF100.  Frankly, I've got one of the Hornady red gun vibrating thingamajigs and it's very fast to load 100 primers.  The only advantage to the RF100 is that I might save 30 seconds per 100 rounds and that assumes that the RF100 is flawless which appears to be a long shot.  The press OTOH is a joy.

[Kraj]

11 hours ago, RickT said:

The partial chisel point seems to have done the job - 100 flawless rounds from the same batch of once-fired.  I encountered one berdan primer, but you can feel those.  Now for the fine tuning of the RF100.  Frankly, I've got one of the Hornady red gun vibrating thingamajigs and it's very fast to load 100 primers.  The only advantage to the RF100 is that I might save 30 seconds per 100 rounds and that assumes that the RF100 is flawless which appears to be a long shot.  The press OTOH is a joy.

I went from a Hornady with the case and bullet feeder to a 1050 w/ a Mr bullet feeder. While it was much more expensive they are a world apart. I like the Hornady without the feeders but it's a pain to get them to run with them

[mcracco]

What you are trying to do is make the tip of the decapping pin a shape other than a mirror image of the anvil in the primer. If the pin doesn't 'plug into' the anvil it won't stick.

In my experience: For 5.56 brass the Lee universal die with a SquirrelDaddy ball end pin runs brass by the 5 gal pail without issues. For 9mm I run the stock Dillon kinetic decapper which never fails to knock the primer loose.

[Expflier]

I'll did that to mine seemed to have fixed the problem

[GregJ]

Not sure if you are running into this same problem.  I thought it was primers getting drawn back into the case, but it was the primer pin being too thick to fit into the flash hole.  I had beveled and polished the pin, but that didnt help.

Edited January 11, 2017 by GregJ