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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About MeatPuppet

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    Alcohol inventory reduction specialist
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    Steve O

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  1. Cha-Lee made mention of them about the time I became dissatisfied with the Acme 9mm quality control that I had been shooting. Nothing but good times with the Eggleston 124gr so far. As a bonus, you can get them in 356/357/358 dia. The coating has always been perfect and they feed 100% in my Mr. Bulletfeeder.
  2. Everglades Ammo special pricing going on right now: CCI #500 Small Pistol Primers: $26/1000 CCI #400 Small Rifle Primers: $26/1000
  3. Yep... Gets hot after the first few thousand rounds. I suppose thats why they recommend putting a fan on it. It has worked out fine for me.
  4. Make sure the Dillon swage station is set up right. I had to use a Dremel cut-off wheel and slice a case in half to see that the Dillon Swage Hold Down Die was not supporting the case web as the swage rod pushed up. This allowed the web to flex upwards when the swage rod pushed up. If there was a smushed primer, the flex was enough to allow the plate to index without sensing the smushed primer. Once adjusted, it works pretty good.
  5. Dont worry about it. It is normal. I went from a Dillon Square Deal directly into a 1050 / Ammobot setup. I had the same reaction as you and did all the things you are describing. I went so far as to replace the three roller bearings in the Dillon lower unit. It smoothed things up, but I still had a "hitch" that felt like something as binding up when manually cycling. Now I am used to it and it does not bother me any more. I ment to email Ammobot customer service and ask it it is a side effect of the electric motor not being powered up when manally cycling. Some kind of sciency-thing with the induction motor thingie. Fire that pony up, sit back and enjoy the ride!
  6. Well, yes. I have an audible alarm system. Essentially it is a loud "Bang" at the primer seating station. Twice followed by a chain reaction of the remaining Federal primers in the tube. The swage station usually locks up the shellplate on a ringer and the Ammobot stops after sensing the resistance. Ususally. To be fair, I have only had a few ringers in over 70K loaded last year (amazing how many friends you suddenly have when you get an autodrive). I only learned about cleaning out "primer dust" after my first detonation, got lazy and re-learned it after the second one. Spectacular! But not really something I worry about. The Super 1050 is a great machine, but when you add an autodrive you start expieriencing problems that the machine was never designed to handle. Aftermarket parts definately resolve a lot of them (F&FB, Level 10, etc...)
  7. I have a 1050 toolhead I use for just processing 9MM brass. (1) Lee Universal Decapper (in place of Dillon) with Squirrel Daddy decapping pin. (2) Dillon primer pocket swage station (3) Empty (typically primer station) (4) Empty (typically powder drop) (5) Dillon Size die with decapping pin removed (6) Empty (7) Lee U-Die with decapping pin removed I use the F&FB heavy duty shellplate, Level 10 shellplate bearing upgrade and the Ammobot autodrive. I can process brass at around 2000 pieces an hour with this setup. Pre-processing my brass definately helps when doing long runs of loading.
  8. This: http://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/handgun-bullets.html?bullet_style=265&caliber=6 They are currently out of the 147 JHP, but they come back in stock pretty fast. The other JHP options are pretty good too. After loading almost exclusively coated projectiles for a while, I'm dabbling in jacketed.
  9. Graf & Son's has Prima V & Prima SV on sale for $16.99 for 1.1lbs as of 01/05/17.
  10. Graf & Son's has Prima V & Prima SV on sale for $16.99 for 1.1lbs as of 01/05/17.
  11. I got frustrated with the same issue. I went to a Lee Universal Decapper and a Squirrel Daddy hardened decapping pin. Problem solved. Then again, I process brass as a separate operation.
  12. Used pizza oven from a closed pizza joint. It has an adjustable temp control and conveyor belt feed. Wet goes in... dry comes out.
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