IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 18 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: Flat-nosed bullets (obviously) tend to be shorter and fatter in profile. That means that in many firearms you'd have to load a 147 very, very short. Makes like CZ or Smith M&P come to mind, which have very short chambers. A Glock will certainly still take them out to 1.140 or 1.150" OAL and perhaps even longer, so I do not think it matters too much. Right, my recipe now is an x-treme 147 RN with 3.2 gr Titegroup behind it @ 1.160 and is the most accurate load I've shot so far :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Based on last nights debate I need to get some "things" on order... Acme or Missouri coated bullets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 On 10/13/2016 at 4:20 PM, MemphisMechanic said: No, nothing on YouTube. Only things to do different: Any time you change bullets, make sure they pass the "plunk and spin" test. Bell the case mouth a bit more so that no coating is scraped off. Crimp just until the case wall is no longer flared. Then pull a bullet and verify that the coating is not being cut, nor the bullet accidentally resized during crimp. You should barely be able to see and feel a line on the bullet where the case mouth was. "Crimp just until the case wall is no longer flared" Consequently if I measured the mouth of the case right after the sizing die this should be a good start as to enough crimp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 On 10/13/2016 at 0:40 PM, Sarge said: I'm leaning towards moving to BBI 125's for Open division. Why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) I would just crimp until the round will plunk your barrel. But yes the goal is to remove the flare not actually "crimp". Edited October 21, 2016 by CrashDodson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Here is what I have gleaned so far in regard to switching from plated to coated: * Open case mouth a little more to avoid scraping coating * Reduce charge by 10% to begin with * Do plunk & spin test as usual with any bullet change * Use taper crimp (which is what the Dillon 650 crimp die is) * Crimp just until the flare is taken out / crimp just until it plunks in my barrel then pull a few and check for scraping I don't want to wait much longer to order what I need as I think "things" are going to tighten up pretty soon if SHE whose name cannot be mentioned has anything to do with it Any other advice? Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 That looks good. I have never pulled a bullet. If loading a bullet with the high-tek coating you will see it shave off in the seating station if you dont have enough flare. I personally use the redding competition seating die. I find it seats more consistent and I like the fine tuning. Trying to adjust the dillon dies with the nut is a PITA. I use the dillon crimp die and a redding dual ring sizing/decap die. I forget who makes them but you can get a set of lock rings with a set screw so you can remove your dies without losing their positioning. This is important if your only running one tool head but multiple calibers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hornady+locking+ring&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=77836790091&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hornady+locking+ring&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=77836790091&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef15 Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 If you get 147s I'd stick with 3.2 of TG worked great in my G17 @1.14 with Blues and Lucky13.Bore remained virtually spotless in excess of a thousand rounds. Crown would have a little blue to it when shooting blues. Any residue just wiped off/out.I loaded them with Lee dies using plenty of flare, and minimal crimp, though at the time I was using a FCD, so probably more crimp than necessary.RN vs FP, whichever feeds and is most accurate, I like FPs for a slightly sharper hole in paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 4 hours ago, IGOTGLOCKED said: Why? They seem to shoot and feed fine and are as accurate as the MG's I use, and cost a lot less Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 3:23 PM, IGOTGLOCKED said: Thanks Intel6, I suspect the natural progression after transitioning to coated would be casting my own, and that is definitely something I'd be interested in! I'd guess one just puts them in an oven to "bake" the coating on? If so we just replaced our kitchen appliances and I could install the old oven in my reloading area - hmmm... Whoa, one step at a time! Cheers! You might want to do your casting and baking outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 Don't know if what I attempted to post sent or not... Received my Acme coated 145 gr RN & 147 FN. Below are picts. How does the crimp look? Too much or not enough? Also the side of the bullet where it meets the bottom is scraped a little as seen in the pict below. No scrapes on side though... Resized case is 1.373 & belled case is 1.390. It plunked tested fine. Thanks in advance fro IGG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1sickPuppy Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 I get those same marks at the bottom of the bullet. I'm wondering if it's something inside the case itself. Maybe the case has a shelf of something that marks up the bottom of the bullet seating it that deep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Check the inside of the cases, if they have a shoulder in them, sell for scrap. Many people had case separations at the shoulder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 1 hour ago, Steve RA said: Check the inside of the cases, if they have a shoulder in them, sell for scrap. Many people had case separations at the shoulder. I went and checked, no shelf/ledge. All were same head stamp for as much consistency as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 2 hours ago, 1sickPuppy said: I get those same marks at the bottom of the bullet. I'm wondering if it's something inside the case itself. Maybe the case has a shelf of something that marks up the bottom of the bullet seating it that deep. Nope, and I am belled 17/1000s over the resized case... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadpilot Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 2 hours ago, 1sickPuppy said: I get those same marks at the bottom of the bullet. I'm wondering if it's something inside the case itself. Maybe the case has a shelf of something that marks up the bottom of the bullet seating it that deep. Those marks are from the bullet bouncing back up and smacking the brass in the kinetic hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDA Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Too much. You shouldn't have that ring around the bullet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBQRibs Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 1 hour ago, Leadpilot said: Those marks are from the bullet bouncing back up and smacking the brass in the kinetic hammer. 1 hour ago, TDA said: Too much. You shouldn't have that ring around the bullet. ^ These. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDescribe Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 25 minutes ago, BBQRibs said: ^ These. YES ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ BOTH of those. Too much crimp. And that is a gouge from the rebound when you use a kinetic bullet puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I may disagree with the others - if there's nothing there that you can feel by touch, that might be okay. But that's absolutely the most crimp I'd want to use on any bullet type, including FMJs. We don't want any deformation or inadvertent resizing on the surfaces of the bullet that engage the rifling. As long as they case gauge or chamber check, you're crimping enough. But it's also likely that most reloaders are crimping too much. And you might be - try a bit less and see how it looks. (as the others said, your bullet drops into the hammerhead of the puller then bounces back up into the case mouth and your find that mark on it. Ignore those.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeinctown Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Not sure what press you are using, but I set my expander to the specs Dillon listed in their 650 manual and I get no shaving with coated lead. There is just enough bell to not allow the bullet to fall over when you set it on there. I can basically only feel the bell but it is really had to see the bell. Don't make it harder than it needs to be, and you will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrashDodson Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I bell about as much as yours in the picture. If you want to bell less but not shave the bullet the MR bullet feeder funnel/expander works well. I go down in crimp until they will consistently plunk. I have never pulled a bullet and mine are more accurate then me. put the press all the way in the down stroke and then thread the crimp die down until it touches the case. Raise the handle and lower the die a little more. Rinse and repeat with lowering the in small increments until the rounds plunk consistently. It may be a situation where in order to get the round to chamber in your gun you do need that much crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IGOTGLOCKED Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 13 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: I may disagree with the others - if there's nothing there that you can feel by touch, that might be okay. But that's absolutely the most crimp I'd want to use on any bullet type, including FMJs. We don't want any deformation or inadvertent resizing on the surfaces of the bullet that engage the rifling. As long as they case gauge or chamber check, you're crimping enough. But it's also likely that most reloaders are crimping too much. And you might be - try a bit less and see how it looks. (as the others said, your bullet drops into the hammerhead of the puller then bounces back up into the case mouth and your find that mark on it. Ignore those.) Thank you Memphis, makes sense. The light really came on when you said "We don't want any deformation or inadvertent resizing on the surfaces of the bullet that engage the rifling." Just never thought of it that way... Also regarding the plunk & spin test. Trying to achieve the longest coal, which indicates what? Won't plunk = crimp Won't spin = coal Or? Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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