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Multiple Slides for a 2011


ThePeanutGallery

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How difficult is it to build a second upper assembly for an already functional 2011?  

As I understand it, most slide to frame fitting is done by removing material from the frame, not the rails on the slide, so fitting a second upper would change the fit for the original. IE building a 9mm slide for my .40 limited would change the way my .40 slide fits and functions - is that a correct assumption?

I also ask because I have a line on a cheap open gun, but it's presently set up for minor and the owner doesn't think the slide will hold up to major loads. I'd likely need to replace the slide at some point.

Any thoughts?  Would I just be better off avoiding that purchase? 

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Fitting a second slide really depends on the tolerances and how the new slide comes from the factory and how the original slide was fit.  If the gunsmith has a dozen slides sitting around to try, the chances are that one of them will be a pretty good fit.  If he has to order one, the odds are higher that some sacrifice will need to be made to make them both work.  This could result in either or both slides becoming a little looser than what they would consider ideal though if the barrel is fit correctly, this won't result in much if any accuracy loss for the games we play.

The open gun would need to be super lightened to not be able to handle major loads.  I would say it's more common than not that anyone shooting open for a longer period of time will have a slide crack on them at some point.  Replacement is usually pretty straight forward and slides can be peened.  Worst case is the frame can be railed or welded.

A picture of the open gun would help to know how aggressively it was lightened

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I would get a brand new slide and have it fit, the new slide should need about .005 - .009 off of the bottom to start on the rails. The rails should already be in spec so it should not change anything as far as the original slide in how it fits and functions. So you will be able to swap them out with no issues. 

Now at the back of the slide it will need to be blended to the frame which is harder to do since the frame is already fit to the original slide but it can be done. 

Good luck!

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I tried the one frame, two center fire slide approach three times and wasn't satisfied.  The first was with a Colt Gold Cup National Match pistol.  That was not successful because I could not find a new slide that was tight enough to fit.  You could throw most of them on from across the room.  

My second attempt was with my current Sig Tacops 1911.  It was made in their custom shop, along with a separate top end I intended to use for bullseye.   The second slide was loosy goosey, so I eventually sold it.

My third was with my CZ TS.  I decided I wanted to try Open, so I bought a complete top end for it and ended up spending $1200 by the time I was done.  I could Have bought a brand new TS for that.  I also decided I didn't like the compromise, so I bought a custom 2011 for Open.

I've learned it is better not to compromise.  I now build or buy a pistol specifically for an intended use.  The only exception I now make is for 22 conversion units.  I use a Marvel Unit One on my 1911 bullseye pistol, and a custom CWA on my 1911 action pistol.  They work because the barrel is locked in and can't move.

Edited by zzt
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Here is a gallery of a few images to show the extent of the slide cuts.  The sides of the slide, apart from the glaring holes in the front, have been milled in quite a bit, you can see the shelf in the side on picture. The gun is VERY light. I don't have an exact weight, but its easily as light as or lighter than my 4.5 XDM.  

I'm thinking the statement it wont handle major is probably an accurate one.

The price as is, with three STI mags and about a thousand rounds is around 1400.  Any additional thoughts from the people who have been there and done that?

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The setup may not be ideal, but the price is quite right! Figure the mags are at least $50 each depending on components. The ammo is easily worth $200 at a minimum. So, you're basically getting an open gun for $1000. If it runs, that's not bad at all. Great deal to try it out and see if its worth it to you to spend more money.

Guess this could be good for falling steel/ProAm-style matches if that's your thing too.

Edited by wgj3
Grammar...
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As far as I'm aware, it was built for steel challenge - I'd probably use the minor ammo for practice.  I've received a ballpark figure from a local gun smith on fitting a new slide ~ around 600 in labor + additional for parts.  All in with a new top end would be 2000-2200ish. 

Does anybody know the make of the red dot?  It didn't have any markings on it, and I'm fairly certain it isn't a C-More.

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TPG, you are low-balling your eventual expenditures.  If you like the gun and it is tight, functional and runs, then buy it.  Shoot it that way for USPSA Open Minor for a while.  You may decide never to go to Major.  I know several shooters shooting Open Minor with full race 2011s, Czechmates, or plastic guns and they do very well indeed.

If you later decide to get a new upper, go to Gans Guns and look at his price list for a realistic idea of what that will actually cost.  You'll need a new slide, milling to lighten, a new barrel, fitting, a new comp plus fitting and align reaming, FPS fit and some misc. parts.  There is no way you will get all that for $600 to $800.

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I'm going to give this a try over the winter with one of my 2011's. I've already got a new slide and it fits on the frame but is just a tiny bit tight. After my last major coming up in a few weeks I'll really dig into it but it looks like it shouldn't take much work to get the slide working.

I picked up the slide new tri-topped with sight cuts for $325. Add a barrel for around $225, aftec  $80, And maybe $40 in the FP/stop/spring. $100 in sights. Then it'll just need a finish and I'll be running for like $800 bucks.

Depending how it shoots it will either be my primary or back up limited gun next year.

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The 600-800 quote I received assumed using the existing parts, except for the slide. Is it unrealistic to fit a barrel/comp to a new slide?

Switching calibers or barrels would definitely be more than that 600 figure in parts alone.  Good call with the Gans Guns pricelist - I hadn't thought of that. 

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While you could conceivably use the same parts with a new slide, it will lead to compromises.  Having to strip, clean and swap parts out between slides strikes me as a PITA every time you want to switch between Minor and Major.

Assuming the top lugs on the new slide are in the same location as the old, and the hood fits, you could probably get away with it.  You'll have to trim the slide front so it doesn't interfere with the comp.  The previous owner or builder went a little nuts with poppels and comp ports.  It looks like it would be overkill for Major, so maybe it would work fine.  I have no idea what Minor load he used that worked all those holes and ports.

IMO, you could change to a heavier recoil spring and maybe add a shock buff, then try some Major or near Major loads to see how they feel and work the holes and comp.  If you can find or quickly work up a load that works the holes/comp and shoots the way you want it too, then I would consider the new slide route.  Else, you'll need a new barrel and comp for the new slide, so you can optimize it for Major.

 

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