rootacres Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 I have the Henning upgrade kit on its way for my stock 2. My question is, what do I need to do to shorten the stock II's reset. Is there a particular sear that everyone prefers. Would a 1 piece sear be a good route to go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haiedras Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Titan hammer, and if you really want to get froggy, get a cgw type 3 disconnector. There's a thread about the process somewhere on this subforum. Honestly though, I felt the juice wasn't worth the squeeze, the Titan hammer shortened the reset considerably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 I thought the titan didn't change reset... at least I didn't notice it being different. Yes? No? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuspectXX Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 (edited) Titan hammer, and cgw t3 disco. The disco is where the advantage is at. Click here to watch video. Stock 2 trigger Edited September 11, 2015 by SuspectXX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer377 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 The hammer doesn't change the reset. The 1-piece sear is the biggest difference maker. If you know some one who knows how to tune them, it can be made 1911 short. The disco doesn't shorten the reset, only the pre travel after the reset point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuspectXX Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Im running a stock 1 peice sear. Mine changed big-time after fitting a disco! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 The hammer doesn't change the reset. The 1-piece sear is the biggest difference maker. If you know some one who knows how to tune them, it can be made 1911 short. The disco doesn't shorten the reset, only the pre travel after the reset point. The hammer absolutely reduces reset distance. Shorter hammer hooks = shorter reset (given properly adjusted pre and post travel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 ^^^^ THIS.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer377 Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 The hammer doesn't change the reset. The 1-piece sear is the biggest difference maker. If you know some one who knows how to tune them, it can be made 1911 short. The disco doesn't shorten the reset, only the pre travel after the reset point. The hammer absolutely reduces reset distance. Shorter hammer hooks = shorter reset (given properly adjusted pre and post travel) True, but the hook depth on the OEM heart hammer and the Titan hammer is negligible. Ergo, no appreciable difference. At least not in the handful I've worked on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 That has not been my experience. I noticed a substantial decrease in reset distance when I installed my Titan hammer from the stock heart one. I could measure the hook height on the stock one tonight, but it's hard to measure it on my Titan because it's in the gun, and I don't really feel like pulling it.... Anyone have the two out of guns they could measure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer377 Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) ... Edited September 12, 2015 by Racer377 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leemoe83 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Replacing the stock hammer with a Titan and replacing 2 piece with 1 piece sear shortened the reset a lot. I honestly don't see any need for it to be shorter and I use to run a shadow with a pre-b disco which was so short I just completely removed the trigger overtravel screw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Has anyone sent their modified Disco to CGW so that he could measure it yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 I sent him an entire dimensioned cad drawing a while ago when I installed mine. The reality is all he needs to do is open up the hole in his T3 then we can all fit it ourselves. He doesn't seem all that interested though, nothing ever came of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Interesting. How hard could it be to enlargen the hole, even if there was an additional charge. If we eff it up, we will just have to buy a new one, LOL. I wonder if it is worth it to add a Titan Hammer to my Elite Match. Edited September 15, 2015 by himurax13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eboadway Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 You can enlarge the hole to the required dimension in about 2 minutes with a Dremel. I've done 3 now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 It took me like an hour and two broken drill bits to get mine opened up. I had metal drill bits but those cgw discos mush me made out of diamond or something. Eboardway, what are you using with the dremel to open yours up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I posted to another thread, that when I drilled mine out, I bought the right drill bit, a carbide bit with TiAlN coating (0.1040") it opened the hole up effortlessly in no more than 4 seconds. You can read more about it here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194198&page=7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vixty Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-mishka Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Few questions for you guys 1. Will one piece sear from Limited work for stock 2? 2. With Titan hammer and one piece sear, do i need extended fp block? 3. Which fp works best with this set up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beastly Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I found this on Amazon: $10.30 + $6.51 shipping Screw Mach Drill, Parabolic, TiAlN, #37http://www.amazon.com/Screw-Mach-Drill-Parabolic-TiAlN/dp/B00868Z404/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442423140&sr=8-1&keywords=TiAlN+%2337 Product DescriptionScrew Machine Drill, Parabolic, List Number 2175TA, Number of Pieces 1, High Performance Grade, Cobalt Steel, TiAlN Finish, Notched Point, Drill Point (Deg.) 135, Wire Size #37, Decimal Equivalent 0.1040, Flute Length (In.) 13/16, Overall Length (In.) 1-13/16, Shank Dia. (In.) 0.1040, For Chilled Cast Iron, High Speed Steels, High-Strength Alloy Steel, Stainless Steel And Tool Steel Restrictions California Proposition 65 Warning: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer. High-Performance Parabolic Screw Machine Length Cobalt Drills, 135 For deep-hole drilling in a wide range of materials. Provide superior rigidity to minimize deflection. Parabolic flute form and point combination produces closer hole tolerances, heightened chip breaking, and improved coolant flow. Self-centering modified notch point prevents walking.Notched point Q-Cobalt Letter and metric sizes available at DrillSpot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I found this on Amazon: $10.30 + $6.51 shipping Screw Mach Drill, Parabolic, TiAlN, #37http://www.amazon.com/Screw-Mach-Drill-Parabolic-TiAlN/dp/B00868Z404/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442423140&sr=8-1&keywords=TiAlN+%2337 Product DescriptionScrew Machine Drill, Parabolic, List Number 2175TA, Number of Pieces 1, High Performance Grade, Cobalt Steel, TiAlN Finish, Notched Point, Drill Point (Deg.) 135, Wire Size #37, Decimal Equivalent 0.1040, Flute Length (In.) 13/16, Overall Length (In.) 1-13/16, Shank Dia. (In.) 0.1040, For Chilled Cast Iron, High Speed Steels, High-Strength Alloy Steel, Stainless Steel And Tool Steel Restrictions California Proposition 65 Warning: This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer. High-Performance Parabolic Screw Machine Length Cobalt Drills, 135 For deep-hole drilling in a wide range of materials. Provide superior rigidity to minimize deflection. Parabolic flute form and point combination produces closer hole tolerances, heightened chip breaking, and improved coolant flow. Self-centering modified notch point prevents walking.Notched point Q-Cobalt Letter and metric sizes available at DrillSpot.com I used this one: http://www.grainger.com/product/MONSTER-Jobber-Drill-Bit-36XH96?nls=1&searchQuery=36XH96&cm_mmc=PJX-_-GraingerBrand-_-43737-_-Generic Mine was carbide, the one you are looking is cobalt. I'm pretty sure the carbide ones are tougher. Price is similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Few questions for you guys 1. Will one piece sear from Limited work for stock 2? 2. With Titan hammer and one piece sear, do i need extended fp block? 3. Which fp works best with this set up? 1. Yes the 1 piece sear from the limited will work, as long as it has the firing pin block lifter arm. (EGW hard sear does not) 2. When using the Titan hammer with the 1 piece sear, yes you will need to use an extened firing pin block. (has been the majority of shooters experience, which a few that claim everything worked fine without it, i'm still skeptical) 3. The Henning gen 4 pin with this hammer/sear combo, will not reliably be blocked even by the extended FPB. I would suggest the Henning G3 or the EG Extreme one. Or the factory one polished if you still get reliable ignition based on your load and spring situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-mishka Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Few questions for you guys 1. Will one piece sear from Limited work for stock 2? 2. With Titan hammer and one piece sear, do i need extended fp block? 3. Which fp works best with this set up? 1. Yes the 1 piece sear from the limited will work, as long as it has the firing pin block lifter arm. (EGW hard sear does not) 2. When using the Titan hammer with the 1 piece sear, yes you will need to use an extened firing pin block. (has been the majority of shooters experience, which a few that claim everything worked fine without it, i'm still skeptical) 3. The Henning gen 4 pin with this hammer/sear combo, will not reliably be blocked even by the extended FPB. I would suggest the Henning G3 or the EG Extreme one. Or the factory one polished if you still get reliable ignition based on your load and spring situation. i'll order titan hammer and ext fp block soon. i already have henning gen 3 fp. i'll need your help with cgw disco Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EngineerEli Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 i'll order titan hammer and ext fp block soon. i already have henning gen 3 fp. i'll need your help with cgw disco Hopefully we find a chance before the baby is here! You don't have any spare gen 3 PF's do you? I need to exchange my gen 4 with someone that doesn't need the FPB. I was hoping to wait until Henning got the gen 4 straightened out so that it would function properly, at least with the extended FPB, but it doesn't seem like that is happening any time soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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