leemoe83

WWB 115 grain is loaded very long, last time I measured it (because of the same issue in a CZ) it is right near max cartridge max of 1.169". They measured between 1.161 and 1.163".

I have not shot the G34 heavily since 2014. Mostly shoot a Stock 2. I pulled my G34 out and have playing around with it and added a tungsten guide rod, thug plug, and brass base pads. The extra weight helps the gun settle a little faster on the draw, transitions, and recoil. It also allows a little more aggression on the trigger. If I were real serious about the 34 I would get as much weight on the frame and non-reciprocating parts as possible. Trigger upgrades other than the connector don't work well for my style of shooting so I prefer a stock striker spring for a firmer reset (I use more strong hand tension than most shooters). I usually end up with a 4 pound trigger so the weight helps.

My Gen 5 19 regulated correctly at 25 yards with previous Gen 3/4 sights. My Gen 5 17 needed the Dawson specific Gen 5 sights.

I tried 8lb spring and the gun was sluggish on return. Liked the 9lb but they would crap out pretty quick. 10 lb is where I ended up for a compromise of feel, reliabiliy, and replacement interval. To get the light weight springs to run well I think you need to really polish the rails, breechface, etc. I'd rather just shoot.

I was shooting a friends 10 mm Witness with the stock recoil spring. We were shooting 200 grain bullets at 1200 fps (according to the box). The recoil spring felt to light for the load and the gun would fail to feed intermittently. It was a lot of fun until the slide cracked just above the ejection port. I suspect the gun is undersprung for real 10 mm loads.

The guy running the KKM booth at Nationals said they would begin making Tanfo barrels in January or February but he was waiting on prints for the barrels. He said price would be around $185.

Okay, thanks, are the Wolff variable springs the the springs to try?

I can do consistent high teens and get fist sized groups with my Stocks 2 and Glocks. I can shoot some .40 and .45 faster than the P226 up close.

.25 at 7 yards. Can split it faster but hits get sloppy.

Factory, orange braided.

The P226 splits slow for me. It takes a longer time for the gun to recover between shots than other guns. Any spring changes that will improve this?

Trigger bar must not be coming up far enough after the slide pushes it down. Can you rack the slide and insert something in the magwell to see if trigger bar can be pushed upwards?

Overtravel need adjustment?

It looks dumb. It may reduce perceived recoil but it is compressing 1 spring and then another spring similar to the HK USP. It will most likely result in more muzzle flip and a pogo stick feel during cycling that will lead to inconsistent return.

I gave you the answer. Google Tillander grips. Click the ebay link on their site. Their grips are not listed in a sorted order. You need to scroll through and find them.

Tillander grips sold through ebay.

Had this happen when the rear of slide rib chewed a channel in the hammer. Rounded everything off and back to normal.

Keep buying Tanfos until you get one that works. That's what I did.

In the CZ guns the safety was never designed to be functional with the hammer down and I assume at the safety notch on the hammer. In USPSA your safety only needs to function correctly with the hammer fully cocked on the CZ and it may be the same with a Tanfo in IPSC.

Looking for exact copies of original wood size and profile. I've felt the PD grips, not my cup of tea. I'll look into those ebay plastics.

Has anyone copied the stock wood grip yet in plastic or aluminum with some decent checkering or stippling? Getting tired of dremeling wood grips for traction.

It doesn't matter.

Dude has a 15.5 lb spring, it should light Winchester, CCI, anything American. His gun is messed up, plan and simple. You will never deform a primer to that depth with a 650 but pushing real hard does insure it is seated all the way and makes a difference. Your suggestion is a $1700 dollar fix that doesn't fix the actual problem.

You need a Titan hammer or you need to check for firing pin channel burr, firing pin hole burr, hammer contacting slide, and I did receive a bent Extreme firing pin. Check DA hammer stroke length and the harder you push on the 650 the harder it pushes on the primer. Don't know why someone would say it doesn't matter. The primer push rod will fully travel well past the shell plate.

Some of firing pin retainer plates are loose and can be pushed upward exposing the slide edge. You have to bevel the edge flush with plate pushed up. I had 1 gun that started to malfunction (failure to eject) due to the slide hanging up on the hammer because the slide chewed a groove into it. I just sanded the groove out the hammer and beveled the slide. It has shown no more wear.