vfasso Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I shot around 200 rounds this weekend with a newly installed reduced power striker spring, apex competition spring kit and apex poly trigger (9mm Pro). In the first 100 rounds or so, I had 4-5 light strikes and then maybe 1-2 the second 100 rounds. I had a mixture of CCI and S&B primers in my reloads. It seems like the CCI had more trouble then the S&B, but I know for sure that 2 of them were S&B. I tried reshooting a few of them and most of them went bang on the second try. My main goal in trying the spring was to lower the trigger pull and after reinstalling the factory I found the difference between the two springs was only around 4 ounces..... My average 5 pull weight with the new parts is 4.1 oz (6.5 oz before the work was done) and 4.5 oz with the original striker spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Two things, actually three things. 1. Primers going off on the second hit almost always means high primers. Check that first. 2. If you change the striker springs you typically must change the recoil spring as well. The two springs work against each other sort of. Changing one without the other results in light strikes. You need a lighter recoil spring with those light internal springs you tried. 3. Get a Glock 34. I had an M&P Pro for about a year and it was just too finicky about springs etc. a GLOCK doesn't seem to mind much what you do to it within reason. They just work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Lord Gomer Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Two things, ok...three things: 1. Thanks for posting the differences in trigger pull. that is good info. 2. Do you have the Apex sear? When using the apex sear I run extra power striker springs. With the Apex sear I don't notice the extra power spring and I never get light strikes. 3. Don't listen to Sarge. The M&P was too pretty for him. He had to return to something more his (lack of) style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StealthyBlagga Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 (edited) Two things, actually three things.1. Primers going off on the second hit almost always means high primers. Check that first.2. If you change the striker springs you typically must change the recoil spring as well. The two springs work against each other sort of. Changing one without the other results in light strikes. You need a lighter recoil spring with those light internal springs you tried.3. Get a Glock 34. I had an M&P Pro for about a year and it was just too finicky about springs etc. a GLOCK doesn't seem to mind much what you do to it within reason. They just work No disrespect to the Sarge, but I think he has it backwards on point 2 above. Folks who change to a lighter RECOIL spring while keeping the stock STRIKER spring can have light strikes because the slide gets pulled slightly out of battery, but the reverse should not be true. A lighter STRIKER spring will be less able to pull the slide out of battery. A friend of mine also had problems with light strikes using his reloads with S&B primers. We initially thought it was his Apex light competition striker spring, but the ammo did the same in my M&P (standard striker spring). Had no problems in hammer fired guns. I have no problems with my reloads using S&B primers, so at this point my assumption is that he had a dodgy batch of primers or a few high primers... you may indeed have the same problem. Sarge may be right on point 1 above (blind squirrel finds a nut ) I have 7 M&Ps, including four 5" guns in various calibers and configurations. They all run 100% with any ammo I feed them - certainly they are as reliable as any of the many Glocks I have owned over the years. You can run either with confidence. With that said, the stock Glock is typically a little more forgiving of hard primers because it is designed to ignite European NATO ammo, some of which has notoriously hard primers... I believe this is why the Glock striker has a chisel-shape tip instead of a more conventional rounded pin tip. Edited February 13, 2015 by StealthyBlagga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Everybody Beatin' me up today. You are right on point 2. But I still stand by point 3. I'm on my phone so I don't know how to do all the silly little sword fight, laughing etc. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Replacing the striker spring in the M&P really doesn't get you much improvement in the trigger pull. My Prod gun sits at 3# on the trigger with a lightened return spring and a lightened sear spring, and ignites everything I can put in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfasso Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Thermo... Yea, I didn't see much difference between the springs as far as pull weight goes. High lord... No apex sear. I'm basically a cheapskate, so I just bought the parts mentioned and smoothed out the rest of the stuff. Sarge.. It's possible I may have had a high primer or two but I don't think I had that many. I've never had a problem with this gun before. About 1200 rounds prior to last weekend. I'll pass on the Glock.. They are kinda' fugly to me. lol Steathly.. I just happen to have some lighter recoil springs on the way here. I was messing with light loads a couple of weeks ago and I got to the point where they wouldn't cycle, hence ordering some springs. When I get them, I'll try it with both of the lighter springs and see what happens. There is a gun show this weekend close to me and I;m gonna see about tradin' my XDM 40 for an M&P 40..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 It's entirely possible to have a bad run of ammo come off a press. I would rub all those primers and see if they are at least flush or preferably below just to rule it out with 100% certainty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfaxis Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 One other thing. Not sure about the trigger kit you installed, but the timing of the striker block can cause issues. All it takes is the striker lug glancing the block to slow it down enough for a light strike. I know I'll get abuse now, but after suffering issues with the FSS and now the Flat Faced trigger, I dremel off some lug material to make sure that only the slightest movement of the block gets it out of the way. Never use this method on a non-competition gun. I have a home made armorour's end cap that lets me see the timing, and press on the striker to make sure it clears easily. It actually functions properly when the trigger is at rest, so it's not that dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thermobollocks Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've been troubleshooting the engagement on my FSS with a rounded striker block. I'm pretty sure I'll just put back the normal striker block, since there's so little takeup on the FSS that the feel of the trigger bar engagement on the striker block doesn't really make a difference to me. I've been having trouble with my FSS -- do those of you with the aluminum FSS trigger notice the trigger bar now has severe rotational play? The factory trigger doesn't do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SF1911 Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I actually went to a stock Glock striker spring (heavier) with my Apex stuff. It really made no difference in the trigger pull and gave me a little more confidence. I don't shoot much factory ammo but I never had an issue with factory ammo and the stock spring. I did have 1 or 2 light strikes/250 rds with my reloads using WW primers. The Glock spring helped that situation, but to further my reliablity I only use Fed primers now. With Fed primers and a Glock spring I can't remember the last time I had a light strike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Am ordering a triple set of extra power (6lbs) glock striker springs from brownells, as the factory 5lb doesnt launch a pencil with nearly as much force as my glocks. Checked wire diameter of springs- oem s&w is 30 thou glock is 28 thou with extra coil or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash74 Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Awfaxis, what are you talking about? The parts you mention should never be in contact with each other. What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfasso Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Between the snow, ice, sub-zero weather ( puttin' my plow truck in the ditch lol ) lately, I haven't had a chance to shoot much. Our monthly steel challenge for tomorrow has already been cancelled.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwhpfan Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 (edited) FWIW....I have a Apex competition striker spring and a stock recoil spring and everything runs great. I've had the Apex sear for some time but when I put the reduced striker spring tha really made the difference IMO. But, my pistol is a 45 so..... Edited February 21, 2015 by nwhpfan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWprotected Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I have 2 M&P pro 9mm pistols the first one has an Apex sear and competition spring kit minus the reduced power striker spring. This pistol has been perfect for thousands of rounds no matter what type of ammo. My newer gun I installed the full Apex competition kit, I have had issues with light strikes, last time I shot it I had 4 out of 100 rounds. The ammo loaded at different times and my Shield was shooting it with no problem. When I got home I removed the reduced power striker spring and installed the factory spring. I noticed the reduced power spring looked to be smaller gauge wire as well as being a shorter spring. I have not had the opportunity to shoot it again but I am almost positive that is the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfaxis Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Awfaxis, what are you talking about? The parts you mention should never be in contact with each other. What am I missing? Sorry for the delay. Been cruising the Caribbean on the Princess Bacon Boat. The contact point I'm talking about occurs inside the channel where the striker is installed. This is where the safety mechanism does its work. When the trigger bar moves the block up into the slide, the little lug on the striker itself can pass all the way through to hit the primer. This is what I'm talking about. If it glances it because the shorten trigger motion does push the blocker up far enough, the striker gets slowed down, or doesn't even make contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfasso Posted March 10, 2015 Author Share Posted March 10, 2015 Well, I finally got to shot a match this weekend. Still had a few inches of snow on the ground, but it was sunny and warm. Yahoo!! I put the stock spring back in and no problems. I didn't notice any difference in trigger pull..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hallz Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Reduced power striker springs were problimatic with CCI and even a few winchesters. The Federal GM had no FTF. I had to go to a 4.lbs+ striker spring to resolve the FTF's. I now carry striker and recoil springs and use an uncaptured guiderod just in case I need to make a swap at the match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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