93notch Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Hey everyone i just replaced my recoil spring and rod with a stainless steel rod with a 13 pound spring, But since then i have been have a lot of light primer strikes, I was just wondering if anyone else has had the same issues or is it something that i am over looking? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Which Glock? In a 34 or 17 a 13 lb recoil spring should not make a difference in function. With lighter springs you need to keep the gun cleaner than normal for a Glock. If you didn't mess with the striker spring AT ALL I would verify you are not having an ammo issue. Your ammo could be just a touch too long and the stronger recoil spring was ramming it home against the rifling where the 13 pounder won't. Do the drop check and make sure all of your rounds drop in and out of the barrel chamber with a nice little kerplop and that they spin freely. If it fails either of these simple checks it is too long by just a thou or so. Other than that make sure you are not getting any high primers in the mix as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 nothing has changed other than the spring. Running 115 grain bullets at 1.15 oal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 nothing has changed other than the spring. Running 115 grain bullets at 1.15 oalMake sure it is fully going into battery. Too light on the recoil spring and it may stop short, then the firing pin safety can drag on the FP and give you light strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 drop a round in the chamber and close the slide or just drop the round in the chamber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Like I said, drop a round in the chamber with the barrel out of the gun of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 it falls in has a nice kerplop and spins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atbarr Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 (edited) Be sure your shell plate is a tight as you can get it and still be able to rotate. I started having light strikes and it was because of high primers. After I tightened the shell plate, I haven't had a light strike. KNOCK ON WOOD. Edited July 6, 2014 by atbarr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 With the only change being "changing the recoil spring to a 13#", I would look at the rounds that light-striked. Are the indentions slightly off-center? If so, then that's a sign that your OEM Firing Pin Spring may be over-powering the light recoil spring's ability to keep the slide fully forward during a trigger press. That would be the root cause of the chain-of-events that BountyHunter alluded to above. You'll usually see this phenomenon in guns with an 11# recoil spring and an OEM FP Spring, but I could see it happening in a 13 if the stars lined up correctly. This COULD be one of those situations where the cure is actually a LIGHTER Firing Pin Spring that won't over-power the recoil spring.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 With the only change being "changing the recoil spring to a 13#", I would look at the rounds that light-striked. Are the indentions slightly off-center? If so, then that's a sign that your OEM Firing Pin Spring may be over-powering the light recoil spring's ability to keep the slide fully forward during a trigger press. That would be the root cause of the chain-of-events that BountyHunter alluded to above.Correct. It lets the slide pull slightly out of battery. I bought one of the "dual rate" captive recoil spring systems for my G35 and noticed the slide moved slightly OB when I pulled the trigger. The light recoil spring rate at lockup position was not quite strong enough to keep it locked up. Mine still fired, but I chucked that recoil spring when I noticed it moving OB. Does not do it with the stock recoil spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 all of them that i looked at seemed right in the middle like the ones that went off. I am running cci primers. i don't know if that makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cohland Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) I would detail-strip the slide, clean the slide and all parts thoroughly with gun cleaner solvent (not CLP), and then reassemble, following the lubrication instructions in the manual. Grease or oil in the Striker will attract and hold grit, and that can induce enough friction to slow down the striker and cause light strikes. Cleaning things out will also ensure the free and complete movement of the Firing Pin Safety, so that it's not dragging on the Striker. Glock makes a set of scrapers designed to clean out cavities in the slide (and other places), which indicates to me that they know that carbon build-up will cause problems: SP 02987 GLOCK Armorer’s Manual Channel Maintenance Kit (Replaces Slide Maintenance Drill Set ) $ 30.00 (Armorer's Price) Clean the slide recess where the Firing Pin Safety fits, making sure that no carbon is built up in the top. Chris Edited July 7, 2014 by cohland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Yeah, CCI primers are pretty hard. Conventional wisdom is that Federals are thinnest (will light on a fairly soft strike), with Winchesters and Remingtons in the mid-range, and CCIs & Tulas being the hardest to light. But all this doesn't explain why everything went into the toilet with only a Recoil Spring change. Still pondering here..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted July 8, 2014 Author Share Posted July 8, 2014 Yeah that's why I am at a loss as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theblacknight Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 LOL I shoot CCI and Fed primers in a Gen 4 G17 with a 13# recoil spring that has 4k on it. I lube my blocks with generous amounts of M1 red grease. OP, who's recoil spring did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kraj Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 I bet it is pulling out of battery when you shoot. Either put the stock recoiled spring in or a lighter striker spring. With the striker spring your going to need a extended striker to insure reliably Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted July 18, 2014 Author Share Posted July 18, 2014 sorry for the slow response. i used a zev spring and rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevInk Posted July 18, 2014 Share Posted July 18, 2014 My G35 was having issues a couple months ago. Has ZEV Ultimate trigger with 2# firing pin spring, Tungsten recoil rod with ZEV 12# (blue) spring and never had any problems with CCI primers. Loaded 124gr Xtreme, 4.1 Bullseye, mixed brass, and CCI 500. A few months ago I switched and was shooting .40 instead. I switched to my .40 KKM barrel, 14# ZEV recoil spring (red) and had quite a few light primer strikes, but it was with the primers I was running. Found my Glock did NOT like Tula or PMC primers. Got another ZEV firing pin (one came with the trigger), switched to IMSI 13# spring, went back to CCI 500 primers, and no problems since. Now I just leave the 13# spring in with 40 and 9, and I did switch to the 3# spring at the advice of a local guy that shoots a similar setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerseyglock Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Maybe primers isn't seated all the way in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breacher217 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 drop a round in the chamber and close the slide or just drop the round in the chamber Extractor damage can occur from dropping the slide on a chambered round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moltke Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Maybe primers isn't seated all the way in. Exactly. Check to see if the same thing happens with factory ammo from Walmart or some place (no Wolf / Tula) Then if it doesn't light strike anymore, you need to seat your primers deeper in your reloads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93notch Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 i went back to the range a couple of times since i was having this issue, but before i did, I cleaned out the striker channel and havent had any issues since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilBunniFuFu Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Keep that striker channel clean and dry, any lube in there will gum up the channel and cause this problem over and over again. Ask me how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstone Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 In my 35 I can't run a lighter Striker spring unless I load federal primers. It run's about 10% light strikes. I have just come to the fact unless I install a longer striker pin I can't use other primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunther Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Are these pistol primers or rifle primers you guys re referring too? I've been having this issue but I thought it was the Ti firing pin + heavier trigger bar spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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