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new glock 35 for limited......which trigger?


3djedi

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High primer? I'm a fairly new reloader. I figured primers either seated or they didn't. ..you can seat them too far?

Another thing I noticed with the g34 in dry fire that bugs me is that when I start putting pressure on the trigger the back of the slides lifts up a bit. Must be a lot of slop between the slide and frame rails! The new g35 doesn't seem to do that.......not that this has anything to do with the topic...

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Edited by 3djedi
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High primer? I'm a fairly new reloader. I figured primers either seated or they didn't. ..you can seat them too far?

Another thing I noticed with the g34 in dry fire is that when I start putting pressure on the trigger the back of the slides lifts up a bit. Must be a lot of slop between the slide and frame rails! The new g35 doesn't seem to do that..

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Yes high primers. If you don't push until the handle will not push anymore and are certain the primer is fully bottomed out in the pocket then the anvil is not seated which in turn causes your light strike. First strike of striker seats the primer, the second ignites it. You mush push and push some more until it just physically can not go any further to ensure your primers are FULLY SEATED. If you use military crimped brass then the issue of high primers can manifest even more. You CANNOT seat a primer to far. This is critical in reloading.

As to the slide to frame fit...these are not high end custom fit 1911s the GLOCK is basically the AK of pistols as the loose tolerance from pistol to pistol is what helps with the rugged reliability. A few of mine do this.

Edited by dskinsler83
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Side question here....can you put a 35 slide on a 34 lower and it will function correctly? I tried in dry fire and it worked fine but not sure there are other concerns like ejector/extractor...

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Side question here....can you put a 35 slide on a 34 lower and it will function correctly? I tried in dry fire and it worked fine but not sure there are other concerns like ejector/extractor...

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The ejector isn't the same I know for certain.

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Side question here....can you put a 35 slide on a 34 lower and it will function correctly? I tried in dry fire and it worked fine but not sure there are other concerns like ejector/extractor...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Well, the extractor would still be for a .40 since its in the slide, the 9mm ejector is bent inwards typically. I personally wouldn't use a 9mm ejector in a .40, but I use a .40 ejector in a 9mm.

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I have Vanek Classic Kits in all my Glocks along with the Jager Strikers. Some strikers out there aren't really extended.

I always make sure the tip is at least 0.120 and the leg is at least 0.440 What is the difference win Feel & Break between the

DK & the Vanek Classic. I'm thinking about trying a DK.

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I have had the same issues as you 3Djedi in my 1911's using a cylinder and slide trigger kit. I had not seated the primers all the way, so when the firing pin in that case, hit the primer, it basically seated it where it should have actually been when I reloaded it originally. The second time, it will go boom because now the primer is seated fully. When this happens, it will mimic a light strike because it will appear that the firing pin or in your case, a striker will barely appear to dent the primer. So chances are, it is not your trigger, striker, it's your not fully seated primers.

What I do for all of my ammo I am taking to a match is run my finger across the top of the cartridge, if it feels or might feel high, chances are, it probably is. It doesn't take long as you get experience to know what a high primer feels like. There is nothing more frustrating having ammo issues at a match. I also drop all of my ammo whether I am shooting a Glock or a 1911, in my barrel. It seems on the .40 cal and 9mm's, they are more apt to have a bulge in them and if they don't fall all the way in when I drop them, they get chucked into the practice ammo bin. I have found for my Glocks, the top of the cartridge should be even or just slightly below the top of the hood on your barrel.

Give Daniel at DK Custom Triggers a shout, and he will help you out with any issues or questions you may have. I am using his triggers and could not be any happier with the performance. Like I had mentioned in an earlier post, I have had 100% ignition with my primers since using these triggers. That includes CCI as well in which I just used at a match this weekend. Be safe out there and happy shooting!

EW

PS,

3djedi, I am running my G4 35 for limited as well and absolutely love it! It's always a blast to load 20 rounds in the first mag and do work. I love Limited. That's where it is at in my opinion. It's the "poor man's" Open Class.

Edited by Ewilson224
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Daniel, will the striker in your deluxe kit reliably set off small rifle primers? I have a ton of them, but only a couple thou of Fed. SP primers.

Have never tried them in any Glock for the fear of light strikers in competition. I will only say CCI, Win, and Fed SPP is recommended. I think any striker may have some trouble with Small Rifle in any GLOCK with light striker springs.

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In my G24 I run a DK trigger bar, Ghost connector, and with Zev everything else (plunger, all springs, striker). I am planning on sending in my stock parts to DK so he can mod them. Then I will be running a full DK Custom trigger.

I should add that I was getting light primer strikes when using the lighter striker spring when using Winchester SPPs. Now that I am running the extended striker by Zev, I have not had any problems. I still like to run Federal SPP anytime I get a chance to buy them.

Edited by SpaceFlunky
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Another vote for the Zev Fulcrum Trigger here! I love the whole system - trigger, lightened striker, reduced springs, etc. Makes for a very nice trigger pull when properly adjusted.

Edited by bulldog009
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I was having light primer strikes with my DK trigger. I took apart my trigger and slide making sure everything was clean and assembled correctly. It appeared my safety plunger was prematurely worn (Don't know why). Put everything back together, shot another 50 rounds, and had 3 light primer strikes. Had to install the heavier striker spring and everything seemed to work.

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I was having light primer strikes with my DK trigger. I took apart my trigger and slide making sure everything was clean and assembled correctly. It appeared my safety plunger was prematurely worn (Don't know why). Put everything back together, shot another 50 rounds, and had 3 light primer strikes. Had to install the heavier striker spring and everything seemed to work.

But do please note this is not my tuned striker or any other extended tip or lightened striker. This is a factory striker.

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Yes this is the factory striker which you said does not like the lighter springs. DK has been in touch with me and has been great with the customer service. I like the trigger it has little pre travel and over travel. The trigger is light and smooth. Now that I have the heavier striker spring I expect it to work fine.

Edited by sheepdog566
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I dremeled a channel in the side of my striker as well as a vertical channel on the rear to lighten the weight and increase the velocity of the stock striker. So far so good.

If you want to try the lighter striker spring again, that is an option to consider if you don't want to spend money right away for an enhanced striker.

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Does anyone have direct comparison of the DK vs Zev fulcrum trigger? I'm picking up a 35 that has a zev fulcrum trigger in it. I'm thinking I may want to try to DK and see, maybe put one in my 34, put the other in the 35.

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