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Alternative to offloading glocked brass


XxWoodsHunterxX

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I recently had to part ways with a gallon Baggie full of glocked brass since my Dillon dies won't clean them up enough to use in my guns. I've seen a bunch of YouTube videos showing the redding grx die or the lee bulge buster. But can't see spending $100 on a die to remove bulge. Anyone know someone who can process it. If not I guess I'll have to continue to sell when I sort my brass unfortunately.

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Make sure your sizing die is installed deep enough. It should do the job. I've run a bunch of Glock brass on my LNL and they all feed without issue - thus far.

The die should be about 1/32 from the shell plate when the ram is up. Also check that the sizing ring is located properly.

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Try a Lee sizing die. It has less taper on the bottom and will size the whole case. Use case lube. If you use a SDB take it and the die that came with it and have the shop make the Lee fit the toolhead.

DougC

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I've used the Lee bulge buster as needed and it does the job most of the time. My process is to load the ammo and then case gauge it. If it fails to case gauge then run it through the bulge buster and try again. If it fails to case gauge a second time then I'll try dropping it into the barrel. If that works it goes into the practice round box. If it doesn't then it gets throw into the "take apart on a rainy day" box.

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I have used a roll sizer, a grx, a EGW U-die, and a Lee Factory crimp die. They all work. My standard pistol die setup is to start with a u die and finish with a factory crimp die. That takes care of all my 40 problems without the extra step.

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The factory crimp die is for jackecketed bullets only.

You could run into problems if loading lead or coated lead because lead bullets have a wider diameter, and the factory crimp die could swage the bullet down in diameter leading to setback or a loose bullet.

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The factory crimp die is for jackecketed bullets only.

You could run into problems if loading lead or coated lead because lead bullets have a wider diameter, and the factory crimp die could swage the bullet down in diameter leading to setback or a loose bullet.

Tell that to the 25,000 rounds I have loaded and shot with that setup. If it is swaging the lead down, it will be sizing the brass with it. This is not a real concern.

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I use Lee dies and load for mulitple Glocks. Lee dies remove the Glock bulge.

That's the difference glocked brass will always work in a glock. But in another brand especially smith and wesson who's barrel support the cases better. I have not been able to use them

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The factory crimp die is for jackecketed bullets only.

You could run into problems if loading lead or coated lead because lead bullets have a wider diameter, and the factory crimp die could swage the bullet down in diameter leading to setback or a loose bullet.

Tell that to the 25,000 rounds I have loaded and shot with that setup. If it is swaging the lead down, it will be sizing the brass with it. This is not a real concern.

It works for some people, but not others. I have two friends who ran into trouble with 9mm coated lead bullets becoming loose. Other friends have not had the same experience, in 9mm and .45. I loaded a few thousand .38 special lead rounds with the FCD without any noticable problem.

And it is a concern if you swage the lead bullet down in diameter. It is a larger diameter than jacketed for a reason. If you shoot a lead bullet with the same diameter as a jacketed, it does not make the seal in the barrel very well and you can see excessive leading.

Before you jump to a quick statement, do some research on the topic. Supposedly the lead swages down, but the brass can spring back to the original size.

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I know lots of folks only use the LEE FACTORY CRIMP die on jacketed ammo BUT I've never had a problem unless I go over .002 in bullet dia.

i.e .358 for a 9mm, 402 in a 40/10, 454 in a 45 acp

My results have been great for years and thousands of rounds of ammo in tight chambered 1911's. Accuracy is the same as what I used prior (standard crimp dies)

My suggestion is to buy the LFC die, they aren't very expensive, and try loading with it then accuracy test it with the correct amount of crimp. Most tell us that is .002 to .003

Just a thought and please understand I'n not trying to start a fight

good shooting

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you can purchase the cheap Lee single stage press and the Lee bulge buster for $65.00 and do them for yourself. Works just like the carbide GRX but you get both the press and the push through die for roughly half the price.

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you can purchase the cheap Lee single stage press and the Lee bulge buster for $65.00 and do them for yourself. Works just like the carbide GRX but you get both the press and the push through die for roughly half the price.

might have to look into it. What's one more press.
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That's what I did, but I didn't think the bare bones model would be sturdy enough so I found a reconditioned classic press and ordered it.

90487 BULGE BUSTER KIT $19.98 1 $19.98 0.45 lbs

99991 Reconditioned Classic Cast Press $81.00 1 $81.00 13.25 lbs

Subtotal: $100.98

Shipping cost: $15.78

Works great. I rigged up some clear plastic tubing so I don't have to mess with emptying that little plastic cup over and over again... brass just flows into the box on the floor.... just don't get going to fast and get your finger in the way of the die on the upstroke. Ask me how I know that.... :surprise:

Edited by jester121
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This company has best Lee prices I've seen and quick service:

https://fsreloading.com/manufacturer/lee-precision/lee-presses/

I GRX'd a raft of .40 S&W for a friend on the little C press, plus depriming about 40,000 cases on it before the aluminum body developed enough "slop" in the bore to make it difficult to use.

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I use a system which either duplicates or greatly resembles Cha Lee's. I run all brass thru a cut off Lee F/L die using the pusher device that comes in a Lee Bulge Buster. The BB doesn't take the base of the case down enough, in my experience. The results have been fantastic with zero problems for approx 3000 rounds. Although it wasn't strictly necessary to ensure chambering, it did allow loading to a soft 21 in my Tanfoglio Ltd. Previously, 20 was it.

Oh, I also use a U die at station one in the progressive press.

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The factory crimp die is for jackecketed bullets only.

You could run into problems if loading lead or coated lead because lead bullets have a wider diameter, and the factory crimp die could swage the bullet down in diameter leading to setback or a loose bullet.

I've never had a problem. Lead bullets are usually only .001" larger than jacketed bullets. The purpose of the Lee FCD is mainly to resize the bottom of the case which may develop a bulbe during reloading. In fact, all my lead bullet reloads at the top near the bullet, never even touch the carbide ring when crimping. But my loads using MG bullets certainly do. I believe when seating lead bullets, the lead is slightly compressed by the brass anyway. But jacketed bullets being much harder, don't have that give when seating them. So the case at the top is slightly wider with jacketed bullets, than with lead bullets.

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Dirt cheap and works great. A friend of mine has his mounted upside down under the edge of his bench with a plastic bucket underneath it. I tried his and it works much better than the conventional way of using one of the these. I will be changing mine to the USD mounting in the near future. Just place the brass in the hole and pull the handle, it is much quicker than lining the shell up in the conventional mounting. I found on the first one of the cheap presses that you have to keep the ram and the linkage lubed to make them last, if not the steel ram will wear the barrel out in the aluminum press rather quickly. I use Slide-Glide on this one and so far through thousands of cases it is still nice and tight.

IMG_2062.jpg

Edited by bowenbuilt
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Dirt cheap and works great. A friend of mine has his mounted upside down under the edge of his bench with a plastic bucket underneath it. I tried his and it works much better than the conventional way of using one of the these. I will be changing mine to the USD mounting in the near future. Just place the brass in the hole and pull the handle, it is much quicker than lining the shell up in the conventional mounting. I found on the first one of the cheap presses that you have to keep the ram and the linkage lubed to make them last, if not the steel ram will wear the barrel out in the aluminum press rather quickly. I use Slide-Glide on this one and so far through thousands of cases it is still nice and tight.

IMG_2062.jpg

I like that idea

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I forgot to mention one thing, be sure to give the cases a little squirt of Hornady One Shot case lube before you run them through. I use a large freezer bag, dump the cases in, 2 squirts and shake them up and let the dry. They run through the Lee die like greased crap though a goose with diarrhea.

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