bayougump Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I have looked online for some info regarding cleaning and where to oil on one's Stock II but have not had much luck. Does anyone have any videos or information they could share regarding this topic. Thanks in advance. Gump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Post #2 has the exploded schematic with lube points. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=178575&hl=%2Bschematic#entry1974365 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Don't use oil unless you like to clean your gun and re-oil it all the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praetorian97 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Dont listen to the Tanfoglio Whisper. He cleans his gun every 6000 rounds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 This is what I do every 1500-2000 rounds: Clean the rails really good with a q-tip, apply grease. Clean the "bean" (oblong hole in the barrel lug) really good, apply grease. Wipe off barrel, apply tiny amount of grease to lugs on top. Every 6000-8000 rounds: Tear gun down, scrub with Simple Green Drip 1 drop of oil in the sear cage Grease the plunger Do 1500-2000 round maintenance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 I use slide glide on: rails (frame and slide) barrel hood/lugs plunger a little on a qtip and the wipe in the front bushing area and the reverse plug and a little in a qtip in the kidney bean lug of the barrel (on the inside of that bean lug) I put some oil on a cotton patch (mpro7, or kleenbore formula 3) and rub that on the slide stop pin (which goes through that barrel lug), rub that patch over the barrel for a light coating and a light coating on the guide rod which on the cone/bull barrel models is part of the lock-up system. 1 drop in the sear area, 1 drop down the back of the hammer and every now and then a drop on each side of the trigger bar where it touches the inside of the frame. you don;t need to go nuts, but I do like my guns with a bit lube in them. for cleaning, just a basic wipe down and re-grease every now and then, and for a bigger clean I spray it out with brake cleaner and relube everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 A buddy of mine used my Match and returned it as smooth as glass, so I asked his secret?!? Automatic transmission fluid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahai808 Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 That's different. Always went with 10W-30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 The "bean"? What about a very very light coat of Hoppes on the firing pin and springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 the bean is the kidney bean shaped barrel link/lug. where a 1911 has a 'link' we have a lug/bean/kidney bean. it's where the slide stop pokes through. oil on a ear cleaner and swab some around inside it. I tend to leave the FP and FP spring alone, but sure around the shank where it touches the channel is not a 'bad' idea. especially if you've polished it up nicely. then it makes sense to make the most of that and put a bit of oil on it. but do the 'oil on patch, rub patch on part' process, don't just put drops down there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intercooler2 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) I think my method is more of a "traveler" type of oiling for some of those areas. I put a smear on the hammer face and I'm sure a small portion makes it onto the firing pin. Same goes for when I apply Ballistol to the outside a small portion hits on the extractor. Lately I have been using a Teflon grease on the bean and lugs on a Q-Tip. The rails, etc... get a drop or two of oil and nothing on the plunger or sear other than something that might migrate. This has worked so far without any issues or signs of abnormal wear. Edited February 13, 2014 by Intercooler2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Thanks guys, cleaned up the Tanfo last night and she is shining and running smooth as butter. Now again I must ask for help again, lol. I have a Dawson FO front sight and I noticed last week it has some movement front to back. There are no screws to take it off as far as I can see. Would I just need to force it out and put some Loctite and reinstall? Also has anyone had problems with the set screw on trigger twisting it's way back forward after use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck s Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Mine is loose also, smallest hex I have ever seen. I actually took it to my office so I could look with a microscope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Really? Where is screw at? I honestly didn't see one, thought I was going blind or something, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intercooler2 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 It's under the fiber pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 A few here more knowledgeable have said using brake cleaner is an option when cleaning their Stock II. Is their a particular type or brand y'all recommend? How do y'all use it? After taking the slide off you simply spray inside? Any particular amount? I wish their was a YouTube video on proper cleaning and lubing maintenance for Tanfos, lol Sent from my flux capacitor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZinSC Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Just down the frame with the brake cleaner, use the little straw that usually comes with the can to be more directional. Do it outside and onto a surface that won't be damaged ( ie: grass ). Be careful with brake cleaner. There are two types, red can and green can. The green can is CFC free. Use that one. Either way, if you use it, it will STRIP everything it touches, so make sure you oil/grease everything you sprayed it on. I used it on my CZ, but only when I was tearing the whole gun down. Otherwise there are spots under the sear cage that can get pretty dry if you don't oil them really well after the brake cleaner. I am a big proponent of Froglube. Yep, i bought the snake oil hook line and sinker. But when i used it on my CZ, it kept things super clean and when I did have to clean it, everything just wiped right off. I haven't done the Stock 2 yet. Realized i didn't have a punch small enough to get the pin out of the safety. Finally got one yesterday, so I'll be doing the Froglube routine some time soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Thanks CZ, I like keeping my pistols clean but also am hesitant in breaking my unicorn down except when absolutely needed in fear of messing up the timing or something, that's just my luck, LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
475480 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Yes indeed , I use Royal Purple on my Limited Elite 10MM and on the 38 Super conversion upper. Sean A buddy of mine used my Match and returned it as smooth as glass, so I asked his secret?!? Automatic transmission fluid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck s Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 One thing I noticed on my s2 and limited pro is that the slide rails are rough, probably where the chrome was blasted to give it a satin look. I took a Dremel and a very fine rubber abrasive disk and smoothed up the rails( 800 grit sandpaper would probably do as well) this smoothed up the action. Also, the sides of the bean, where it contacts the frame was also pretty rough so I did the same there. Not really removing metel of course. One other place that is very rough on these guns is the inside rear of the mag channel. Feel tha area with your finger. I polished it up and mags seat easier now as they engage that area and slide up. I think if you had the tools and time, you could make these guns as smooth as a really nice 2011, none of which may be absolutely needed, but smoother is better than rougher as far as I am concerned, and it cost next to nothing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZinSC Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 One other place that is very rough on these guns is the inside rear of the mag channel. Feel tha area with your finger. I polished it up and mags seat easier now as they engage that area and slide up. Funny you should say that...i did that exact thing last night. I hit all four sides with 600 grit, then 1100 grit sandpaper then the jewelers rouge on the dremel to finish them off. I didn't spend a lot of time on it, so they aren't like glass or anything, but definitely smoother than they were. Will have to take a look at the other spots you mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 That sounds pretty cool but I am NOT EVEN CLOSE to being that brave, lol. Until I find a backup Stock II mine will simply go to the gunsmith if needed. It ran flawlessly at Alabama last weekend and I want to keep that streak going with the Oilfield coming up in 3 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck s Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 One other place that is very rough on these guns is the inside rear of the mag channel. Feel tha area with your finger. I polished it up and mags seat easier now as they engage that area and slide up. Funny you should say that...i did that exact thing last night. I hit all four sides with 600 grit, then 1100 grit sandpaper then the jewelers rouge on the dremel to finish them off. I didn't spend a lot of time on it, so they aren't like glass or anything, but definitely smoother than they were. Will have to take a look at the other spots you mentioned. Glenn, that area is probably fine with just a nice smooth finish like you did. I just found that the mags did not bind as much after doing that when I slightly miss a reload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanniek71 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 One other place that is very rough on these guns is the inside rear of the mag channel. Feel tha area with your finger. I polished it up and mags seat easier now as they engage that area and slide up. Funny you should say that...i did that exact thing last night. I hit all four sides with 600 grit, then 1100 grit sandpaper then the jewelers rouge on the dremel to finish them off. I didn't spend a lot of time on it, so they aren't like glass or anything, but definitely smoother than they were. Will have to take a look at the other spots you mentioned. Glenn, that area is probably fine with just a nice smooth finish like you did. I just found that the mags did not bind as much after doing that when I slightly miss a reload. I smoothed mine and polished it as well. Area definitely is not finished from the factory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunslingerDK Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 A few here more knowledgeable have said using brake cleaner is an option when cleaning their Stock II. Is their a particular type or brand y'all recommend? How do y'all use it? After taking the slide off you simply spray inside? Any particular amount? I wish their was a YouTube video on proper cleaning and lubing maintenance for Tanfos, lol Sent from my flux capacitor I use break cleaner to clean my Stock IIs. I shoot lead bullets exclusively for practice and they really gunk the gun op. I buy the stuff that is pressurized so I almost blasts the gunk out of the gun. I removed the slide and spray it down into the frame. I work the inside of the gun over with a tooth brush and then blast everything out with the break cleaner. I do the same with the slide. I then blow the rest of the non-vaporized brake cleaner out with a compressor and wipe the gun clean with a towel. Afterwards, and this is really important, I spray the gun over with a thin oil like Ballistol or equivalent and the blow the excess of with the compressor. Break cleaner strips the metal for both oil and crud so you really want to saturate the metal with some sort of oil afterwards. After having wiped the gun clean from the thin oil I ad slide glide or thick oil. The gun is squeaky clean in a matter of minutes. Oh yeah, and I tried the frog lube thing. That's just gay, man. You sit there with your gun in 1000 pieces with your girlfriend's hairdryer in one hand and a neat little airbrush in the other as if you were some sort of lead slinging Picasso. And for what? A gun that smells like peppermint but rattles like a Korean car and feels bone dry? I don't get it..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now