RaylanGivens Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I have a problem with primers sticking in the bottom of the case on my 1050... See picture above. If I don't catch them, they will go into the swager and primer stages and cause a jam. The jams are a concern, but I am mostly concerned about setting off a primer. I'm using a standard Lee die and have lengthened the decapping pin as far as it will go. I'm not sure what could be causing the problem. If I grab one of the stuck primers with a needle nose pliers, it comes right off. I don't use case lube, but am thinking about trying it... Could that help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Sand the tip of the pin or bevel it with a file like I did. Probably federal primers. They stick to the pin and get sucked back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Its not that they are not pushing out, they are sticking to the pin and pulling back in. With my brass prep setup I have taken to removing the locator button from station 2 and watching and shutting things down if I see the primer get sucked back up. This isnt really possible on a machine you are loading on though. Do as Sarge says and bevel the tip with a file. It will fix about 90%+ of these. Some just still wont come free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffhughes Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 How many of those do you get per thousand? What brands of brass? If they do happen, you feel it when they hit the swaging station don't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Sand the tip of the pin or bevel it with a file like I did. Probably federal primers. They stick to the pin and get sucked back in Interesting... Never thought about them getting sucked back into the brass... Beveled the end of the pin a bit... Didn't want to go too far; I was afraid it would start punching a hole in the spent primers. Ran about 100 through and only had one pull back into the brass. Maybe I need to bevel it a bit more? I beveled it a tiny bit at a very slight angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Its not that they are not pushing out, they are sticking to the pin and pulling back in. With my brass prep setup I have taken to removing the locator button from station 2 and watching and shutting things down if I see the primer get sucked back up. This isnt really possible on a machine you are loading on though. Do as Sarge says and bevel the tip with a file. It will fix about 90%+ of these. Some just still wont come free. I check the powder as I pull the handel down... Once the bullet starts to press into the case, I shift my eyes to see if the spent primer drops into the bucket. Sometimes I don't see it drop, so I check that case in the swaging stage before continuing. This is a slow process, but it is better than jamming them in the primer and powder stages. How much do you bevel the tip of the decapping pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 How many of those do you get per thousand? What brands of brass? If they do happen, you feel it when they hit the swaging station don't you? After I extended the decapping pin, I started to get a couple every hundred. It seems that extending the pin was not the way to go. It probably gave the spent primers more of a chance to stick to the pin. I reinstalled the pin at the standard position after beveling. Six of the last seven to stick were "Speer" and one was ".NC." I cull the "WCC" and "S&B" brass and anything that looks like it has a crimp. Yes, I can feel it at the staging station. The problem is what to do then... If I continue, a new primer will get smashed into the bottom of the spent primer at the next stage. If I'm sure there is a problem, I remove the plastic piece on the primer station and check the brass... But that is very time consuming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 My eyes go back and forth as I am loading. Look at the spent primer cup and see the primer fall, then look to the powder level in the case and seat the bullet. Repeat. If the primer does not fall, pull the case at the swage station before you work the handle. Polish the tip of the decap pin a little more, but don't put a point on it. When its right, none of the primers will stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I put a point like a hypo needle on mine before it stopped sticking. Has never stuck again in 3+ years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Do you not have your swage rod installed? I am guessing you DO NOT have your swage rod installed. I dont understand culling anything with a crimp when the press has a swage station that takes care of that. If the primer gets sucked back into the pocket and the swage rod did try to swage, the press locks up and you cant crank it(well you CAN, but it takes a LOT of force and you will KNOW something is wrong). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 This is what I did with my decapper pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide45 Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Here is mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooke Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) This is what I did with my decapper pin. photo (10).JPG What brand of resizing die is that? So far my Dillon 550B hasn't done this, but I seem to remember that you might be running a Dillon. I hope not. I already have enough problems with the primer feed being unreliable. Sometimes it won't return fully to the load position. Sometimes when I load primers into the tube they bind up and I have to take the entire system apart to free it up. I don't need anything else to watch for. So far I'm not impressed. Edited February 2, 2014 by Brooke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ85Combat Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 try going back to the Dillon die that came with your 1050. I have loaded 14,000 rounds in 2013 with my 1050 & not 1 stuck primer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 This is what I did with my decapper pin. photo (10).JPG What brand of resizing die is that? So far my Dillon 550B hasn't done this, but I seem to remember that you might be running a Dillon. I hope not. I already have enough problems with the primer feed being unreliable. Sometimes it won't return fully to the load position. Sometimes when I load primers into the tube they bind up and I have to take the entire system apart to free it up. I don't need anything else to watch for. So far I'm not impressed. That die is a Dillon 9mm. I only use it for depriming military brass these days since it does not size some brass enough to prevent setback. I run an EGW U die exclusively on the press for reloading and did the same to the pin as well to prevent primers sticking to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Here is my fix for primers sticking to the decapping pin. I've been doing this from year 2 of ownership of the 1050 (over 7 years now). Take a Dillon pin and cut off the pin from the cap - discard pin. file the cap smooth and square. Take a Lyman decapping pin and drop it into the pin retainer for the stem, then drop the cap from the Dillon on top of the Lyman pin and assemble the decapping stem. The Lyman pins are smaller than the Dillons, are cheaper and easier to find. http://www.lymanprod...tore/page6.html Also see here. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=184766&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 This is what I did with my decapper pin. photo (10).JPG What brand of resizing die is that? So far my Dillon 550B hasn't done this, but I seem to remember that you might be running a Dillon. I hope not. I already have enough problems with the primer feed being unreliable. Sometimes it won't return fully to the load position. Sometimes when I load primers into the tube they bind up and I have to take the entire system apart to free it up. I don't need anything else to watch for. So far I'm not impressed. That die is a Dillon 9mm. I only use it for depriming military brass these days since it does not size some brass enough to prevent setback. I run an EGW U die exclusively on the press for reloading and did the same to the pin as well to prevent primers sticking to it. Do I understand this correctly? You have filed the primer depriming pin and that enables you to deprime crimped military 9mm NATO brass? I have not tried to deprime military brass as I was told that it could not be done by using the Dillon sizing/depriming die. When I have been sorting brass, I have been throwing NATO brass and WCC brass into the scrap bucket. However, you also mentioned that setback could be a problem, so if this works, I will also need to be aware of setback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 This is what I did with my decapper pin. photo (10).JPG What brand of resizing die is that? So far my Dillon 550B hasn't done this, but I seem to remember that you might be running a Dillon. I hope not.I already have enough problems with the primer feed being unreliable. Sometimes it won't return fully to the load position. Sometimes when I load primers into the tube they bind up and I have to take the entire system apart to free it up. I don't need anything else to watch for. So far I'm not impressed. That die is a Dillon 9mm. I only use it for depriming military brass these days since it does not size some brass enough to prevent setback. I run an EGW U die exclusively on the press for reloading and did the same to the pin as well to prevent primers sticking to it. Do I understand this correctly? You have filed the primer depriming pin and that enables you to deprime crimped military 9mm NATO brass? I have not tried to deprime military brass as I was told that it could not be done by using the Dillon sizing/depriming die. When I have been sorting brass, I have been throwing NATO brass and WCC brass into the scrap bucket. However, you also mentioned that setback could be a problem, so if this works, I will also need to be aware of setback. no not at all. You can deprime NATO brass with anything. Priming NATO brass requires pockets to be reamed or swaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Got it. Now that you have reminded me, I now remember why I have been discarding the brass to the scrap bucket. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 send me your WCC and other crimped brass. Ill "dispose" of it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooke Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 OK this OP was about decapper pins on a Dillon 1050. It provided good information. Thanks. I chimed in with a complaint about primer feeder reliability on my 550. That was inappropriate because the OP was about another subject. It was also wrong because I discovered my problem and fixed it. It was my fault because I had the slide plate under the feed slide out of position slightly. I would argue that the design is weak because it allows that situation, but nevertheless the problem was me. It is fixed. Thank y'all. I'm now in full production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 My eyes go back and forth as I am loading. Look at the spent primer cup and see the primer fall, then look to the powder level in the case and seat the bullet. Repeat. If the primer does not fall, pull the case at the swage station before you work the handle. This is exactly what I have been doing. Polish the tip of the decap pin a little more, but don't put a point on it. When its right, none of the primers will stick. I ground the decapping pin on a fine grinding wheel. Afterwards I realized that the small grinding rings I made by spinning the pin as I ground it would probably cause the primer to stick even more. My plan now is to sand the pin with fine grip sandpaper and polish it afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 This is what I did with my decapper pin. photo (10).JPG Now I see what you mean by grinding your pin like a hypodermic needle. You ground the tip completely flat, but at an angle like a hyperdermic needle. I have several spare decapping pins. If my current method fails, I'll try grinding mine like yours. Thanks for the picture! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 try going back to the Dillon die that came with your 1050. I have loaded 14,000 rounds in 2013 with my 1050 & not 1 stuck primer. Good idea... I don't remember having this trouble with the Dillon die. The standard Lee sizing die sizes cases a bit tighter than the Dillon sizing die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaylanGivens Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Here is my fix for primers sticking to the decapping pin. I've been doing this from year 2 of ownership of the 1050 (over 7 years now). Take a Dillon pin and cut off the pin from the cap - discard pin. file the cap smooth and square. Take a Lyman decapping pin and drop it into the pin retainer for the stem, then drop the cap from the Dillon on top of the Lyman pin and assemble the decapping stem. The Lyman pins are smaller than the Dillons, are cheaper and easier to find. http://www.lymanprod...tore/page6.html Also see here. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=184766&hl= Interesting. Not exactly sure how this works, but I'll look into it... Thanks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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