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which holster do you prefer?


Mlussoro

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  • 4 months later...
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I just got my first Tang (Nealio's fault), and it came with a Bladetech. I didn't like the BT with my brick...I mean Glock, and certainly don't want to use it now. Nealio had suggested I check the Manny Bragg, and when doing a google search I saw lots of references to the H&S SpeedSec 5. Anybody had experience with either?

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I just got my first Tang (Nealio's fault), and it came with a Bladetech. I didn't like the BT with my brick...I mean Glock, and certainly don't want to use it now. Nealio had suggested I check the Manny Bragg, and when doing a google search I saw lots of references to the H&S SpeedSec 5. Anybody had experience with either?

I've used the H&S CW5 with my CZ shadow. I love it. draw is VERY smooth. in fact for me it's smoother and faster than from my DAA race master (I have blocks for my tanfo and CZ's in the race master).

I like the race master too but it needs a little mod which I'm about to do (Spring to hold up the block when the gun is out).

the problem is if you wind on any tension you get drag in the draw.

if you then have no tension after you draw the gun while running around the locking block drops down. this means you can't reholster till you swap the gun to your weak hand, reach down with strong hand and lift the block back up, then re-holster. by adding a screw up near the top of the holster and a spring from that screw to the screw on the back of the locking block you can then run it without pre-tension.

so yeah, I've been happy with my H&S CW5. I've not used the manny brag but damage on the finish from the magnets/rollers is a small worry for me.

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I have used the DAA race master for the Stock III a little while now. It seems like reholstering is a common problem, at least with steel frame guns, DAA now has a magnetic locking block..

The trigger guard needs to pass the upper lip of the locking block, seems like the main problem (for me at least) is that the trigger guard sticks on the upper lip and depresses the locking block without getting in the right positition (in the locking block. I picked it to pieces and polished the slanted area on top of the locking block so the trigger guard slides off more easily, helped quite a bit.

I liked the idea with the spring, I don't think it needs more than some resistance to hold the locking block in the highest position when reholstering. Adding magnets is probably also possible, they use the same locking block as before, removed the tension knob/spring and added the magnets and a new plastic/magnetic insert. Could probably be simplified to only have a magnet holding the top position as the gun will keep it down.

http://www.doublealpha.biz/race_master/inserts/magnetic-race-master-insert-block

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thanks for that info joakim. I didn't know about the magnetic blocks. I'd like to try it, but it gets bloody expensive since I already have 3 blocks for this holster!!

The spring idea works really well. you simply add a small screw near the top right of the back of the holster. buy a small spring from a hardware store and fit it between that new screw and between the screw that sticks out from the locking block. hey it may help your draw too with some 'lift' !! lol.

the magnet idea is cool too. you're right in that you only need them to hold the holster up the top. the gun will hold it fine at the bottom.

I understand the problem about the trigger guard too. but mine was definitely falling down during a stage. If I draw the gun, standing still I could re-holster no problem. draw the gun, run a stage and at the end the block was halfway down or all the way down. the spring solves that problem nicely. costs about $3. and 10 min to fit.

that way you can keep the tension knob too if you want it.

looks like I'll buy the magnet one now and try that. :)

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I bought an EAA Witness Limited .40 and need ah holster for it (left handed) Any recommendations ?

Thanks

John

Hey John,

Tac Tech Cal makes holsters for your gun. he will also do a left handed. Its kydex style

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I have the DAA Racemaster and I'm not a big fan. On my 2nd locking block and its half worn out already. The gun flops around a lot in the Racemaster. I don't think they took the time to design the block properly for the Tanfoglio guns. The Manny Bragg looks promising, but I don't have first hand experience. The blade tech or custom is your best bet.

I have the "inexpensive" version of the RM. The racer. I like kydex fine but wanted a single set up for both Limited and Open guns, hence the racer. Used to hate it for the above mentioned reasons but finally fixed the flopping and inconsistent release by sticking a roughly 1/4" shim at the bottom front of the holster where the gun's dust cover rests. All is now very fine and has been for awhile!

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Do you like the Racemaster dhf? I've ran it for 3+ years and have had a lot of issues.

nealio, apart from the locking block dropping problem I mentioned, your problem of the gun flopping around might be cured by adding the new muzzle platform. They now sell a rod and muzzle bung for the race master. costs about $20, you just have to drill and tap an 8mm hole in the bottom of the alloy housing. a mate got one for his RM (running a eric custom) and it certainly holds more solidly now. I took it for a test run. :)

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The CR Speed should work with your Match with little or no modifications, it's the square trigger guard which requires a lot of work.

I want to clear this up: I now have both versions of the WSMII and the Tanfo version is good for both the round and square Tanfo trigger guards.

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Do you like the Racemaster dhf? I've ran it for 3+ years and have had a lot of issues.

nealio, apart from the locking block dropping problem I mentioned, your problem of the gun flopping around might be cured by adding the new muzzle platform. They now sell a rod and muzzle bung for the race master. costs about $20, you just have to drill and tap an 8mm hole in the bottom of the alloy housing. a mate got one for his RM (running a eric custom) and it certainly holds more solidly now. I took it for a test run. :)

You can also get the 'muzzle support assembly body adaptor' so that you don't need to drill and tap the RM. Tried it out yesterday and it feels good, the gun wiggled a little bit in the RM and now its more solid. Managed to drop my gun during training when i was new to the RM, suspect that i did not holster properly but it feels better with the muzzle support. The muzzle support pin is very long so I will probably shorten it (don't plan to get a longer gun anytime soon).

http://www.doublealpha.biz/ipsc-holsters-rigs/holsters/combo-muzzle-support-assembly-body-adaptor

BeerBaron: cool that the 'spring fix' was external, I did not get that first, makes it easy to try out. I run my holster with enough tension so that the block does not fall down but with the spring I could make i looser.

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Do you like the Racemaster dhf? I've ran it for 3+ years and have had a lot of issues.

nealio, apart from the locking block dropping problem I mentioned, your problem of the gun flopping around might be cured by adding the new muzzle platform. They now sell a rod and muzzle bung for the race master. costs about $20, you just have to drill and tap an 8mm hole in the bottom of the alloy housing. a mate got one for his RM (running a eric custom) and it certainly holds more solidly now. I took it for a test run. :)

You can also get the 'muzzle support assembly body adaptor' so that you don't need to drill and tap the RM. Tried it out yesterday and it feels good, the gun wiggled a little bit in the RM and now its more solid. Managed to drop my gun during training when i was new to the RM, suspect that i did not holster properly but it feels better with the muzzle support. The muzzle support pin is very long so I will probably shorten it (don't plan to get a longer gun anytime soon).

http://www.doublealpha.biz/ipsc-holsters-rigs/holsters/combo-muzzle-support-assembly-body-adaptor

BeerBaron: cool that the 'spring fix' was external, I did not get that first, makes it easy to try out. I run my holster with enough tension so that the block does not fall down but with the spring I could make i looser.

yes, I saw the adapter, but to me it looked a bit ugly, added extra stuff for no reason and cost $20! I'd rather just drill and tap one hole! it's aluminium, easy as pie to drill and tap. :) I think without the adapter it may be a bit shorter too (as it screws into the holster body, not into the adpater outside the body. probably shortens it by 20mm).

The spring fix is a bit DIY but it works. I had the same thing as you. I could wind on the tension which would stop the locking block from moving, but then the draw was not nice and smooth. I found to get a nice grab free draw I had to have basically zero tension. I guess that's why they are happy to get rid of the tension knob on the magnet version since they found people just only used tension to stop the block dropping down.

I can do some pics of the spring mod if you like? it will do the same thing as the magnet blocks but for $3. :)

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here's a basic diagram of the spring idea.

yellow blob is where you put the extra screw. it goes into the nylon block (so you have to add a screw to each block you have, not hard). you can just use a self tapping screw, or to be pretty drill and tap a small hole and use a cap head screw. you can put the screw straight into the alloy block (just a bit lower than in the picture), but the block if very thin there so be careful. if you do that you can move the screw a bit further to the left of picture so it's pulling the spring straight up.

Green line is the spring. I just bought some from the hardware store, but you can use a spring from a dillon press too, I forget which one my friend used, but check your dillon 650 parts and one should be about the right size. :)

post-50660-0-31583100-1404261460_thumb.j

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Do you like the Racemaster dhf? I've ran it for 3+ years and have had a lot of issues.

Ya Nealio, I like it a lot, though I only used it for my sti edge, which it fits very well. Started with the hogue magnetic holster, used it for a year or two well enough until I ran into a stage at Indy sectional that had you leaning forward to start and my gun kept wanting to slide out. Didn't like locking it because when I unlocked it on the timer the mechanism always pushed the mag button.

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Interesting reading the rest of the posts. I never had any problems with the block dropping.

Ya sorry Nealio I should have clarified I've never used the race master on a tanfo just a bladetech.

Edited by dhf
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I have the tensioner set on my racemaster so the block doesn't drop. My issues are retainment (sliding block not engaging fully, sloppy hold) and the holster locking up of you get grit in it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

im running a blade tech right now and hate it! i was looking at the safariland race holster but buddy has it and he doesnt like how much movement the gun has while locked in place,

so safariland

DAA race holster

ghost? super ghost?

manny brag

what are most of you running for your uspsa rig on your TANGs and Witness guns?

I just had a bad experience with a BladeTech mostly because it was new to me. I've more recently received a CR Speed Tanfo specific and tuned that to my Limited Custom. I'll be very cautious with the open fronted BladeTech until it becomes second nature. I have several other CR Speeds so they are familiar and comfortable

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