jjw Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) years ago when my 3 gun shot gun was done 1988-89. porting was o.k. now it illegal in many of the bigger matches. my armorer who is highly trained on all weapons, EXCEPT shot guns. very small part of our work world. hinge busters only, doesnt want to weld the ports closed.. says the 1100 bbl will not take the heat. does anyone know of a big time shot gun guy here who can do it. i dont want to change bbl's as this was tuned to the reciever by chip mcormack and he ramped the feed ramp. has never JAMMED in 15 or so yrs for me i cut a bbl to 18 & had it choked great job. doen not shoot slugswell. would like have my old barrel back to shoot. better barrel. shoots slugs into 4" at 50 yds with factory choke. i shoot a lot fo mustang 3-gun at military private shoots. slugs are a part of all shot gun stages to 50 or so yds pls throw out what ever u have knowledge/rec of. tks jjw p.s.. can mail or bring to rock castle. do not need it till last week in october for a 3 gun at ft bragg. Edited August 13, 2013 by jjw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 I think some people have clamped (or JB Welded) some shim stock over the ports on the Mossberg barells with pretty good sucess. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrysuperhawk Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Until my buddy wussed out and sold the gun, I was all ready to TAP the ports in a Patrick Flannigan 930 and install setscrews... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeAZ Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 Yep, piece of plate over the ports ( my buddy used a piece of a beer can/ hose clamp)......I can't really think of a clamp that will look nice ????.....AR gas block???.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltdmstr Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I think a decent welder could probably pull this off by welding one port at a time and waiting for the barrel to cool completely between each weld. Sure it's going to take a while, but if you avoid heating it up a bunch you should have little or no warpage. If you use a piece of flexible copper with some kind of backing inside the bore there should be minimal clean up, if any, on this inside. Outside is purely cosmetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seth Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I might try a guy with a TIG and Silicon Bronze. I bet it could be done with minimal damage. Silicon Bronze melts way lower than the steel but bonds with it nicely and flows really well.. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrrhic3gun Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I'd be curious to see what exactly was "ramped" on an 1100 barrel and wonder what tuning a barrel to a receiver involves. If there was some kind of magic involved, I'm sure some of the current smiths are capable of installing a new (unported) barrel with equal success...probably for less money than welding up and refinishing the old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke8401 Posted August 15, 2013 Share Posted August 15, 2013 I have the ports on my 930 covered with shim stock jb weld and use a nordic mag tube clamp to cover it. I was a welder back in the day and I might consider tig welding them with a copper backer as previously mentioned but mine has not moved going on 3 years including a significant number of slugs through a lm choke. Back in the day to beconsidered a "welder"you had to be able to tig a beer can back together (steel) and nicu weld cast iron. If you find a "welder" they could weld them no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cas Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 I'd get a piece of barrel cutoff, make a plate to cover the ports, then silver solder it on. I've done similar work on a barrel... not to cover a port , but it was basically the same thing work wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tohm Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 If you plug weld the holes the barrel will probably pull when i cools (it shrinks). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrmock Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 This is an old thread but I thought I would post what I did. I have learned enough to know that this 3-gun sport makes people stupid. A couple of years ago I bought a Mossberg 930 with the 28" ported waterfowl barrel. I then paid to have it cut down to 22" and built it into a nice 3 gun shotgun. It has worked great the last couple of years. This year I went out and bought a 28" barrel and rebuilt the gun as an 11 + 1 long shotgun. Crazy! I did have to work through the same 'how do you cover the ports so you don't get put into open' question. I came up with a two piece approach. One u-shaped piece of metal slides under the rib above the ports and another spacer slides underneath. Two bolts are used to clamp it into place. I spray painted black so it would not be shiny. See pictures: It has worked great so far. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dewberry Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) Nevermind, just realized this was a year old. Edited January 18, 2015 by Dewberry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxshooter Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 I would thread the holes and put screws in them and grind flush. Another thing would be to silver solder a plate over them or silver solder the holes..p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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