Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Advice for a Newbie with 2 out of 3 Reloader components for .38 spl/.


salemsm

Recommended Posts

I am a Reloading Newbie trying to accumulate my Reloading stash in the midst of shortages everywhere. On backorder, I have

2K of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC (for both .357 mag/.38 spl)

1K of Federal Magnum Small Pistol Primers (for .357 mag)

1K of Federal Small Pistol Primers (for .38 spl)

In searching the wastelands of the internet to find Power, I found some that I could actually order ... and it's called Clays from Hodgdon.

In doing some research, I found out that this is one of the faster burn-rate powders on the market and therefore not forgiving to the reloading newcomer. Do you all agree?

I have heard that for newbies, better to start with slower burn stuff like 231, No. 5 or Power Pistol.

Of my 2 .357 handguns, I have a 6" barrel S&W Model 27-9. The other is a 8" barrel 1980 Colt Trooper MKIII. So many variables (barrel length, bullet weight, caliber, powder), methinks I will start out with light loads for .38 spl and work my way up. Then start light on .357 mag. Would like to get a general purpose powder that I can use for both and that I can find but if need be, I'll settle for getting powder for .38 spl and continue looking for .357 powder.

I have also heard that some bullet/powder/caliber combinations work better than others. I will (hopefully!) have the bullet (158GR SWC) and the primers (.38 spl/.357 mag) soon. What would be recommendations from the folks that have reloaded before for mid/slow burning powder for a newbie?

Bottom line: As a beginner, is it better to start out with a slower-burning powder as this will take more grains to achieve the same "omph". More powder means smaller chance to double-fill and therefore more forgiving to a newbie?

Edited by salemsm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Power Pistol is an excellent choice for a beginner. Clays is not. Power Pistol is very forgiving, has a very wide range of calibers you can load with it, cheap, and clean.

I would say that Clays is powder best left to experienced reloaders, who know their machines, and have a reloading system down to a science. Make a small mistake with PP, say 1 grain, and you get a bigger flash and more recoil. Same mistake with Clays, and you may have to buy a new gun and take a trip to the ER.

Buy some load books, check the powder manufacturer's websites, ask around...get the right tools to do the work right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a Reloading Newbie trying to accumulate my Reloading stash in the midst of shortages everywhere. On backorder, I have

2K of BERRY'S CAST BULLETS 38CAL 158GR SWC (for both .357 mag/.38 spl)

1K of Federal Magnum Small Pistol Primers (for .357 mag)

1K of Federal Small Pistol Primers (for .38 spl)

In searching the wastelands of the internet to find Power, I found some that I could actually order ... and it's called Clays from Hodgdon.

In doing some research, I found out that this is one of the faster burn-rate powders on the market and therefore not forgiving to the reloading newcomer. Do you all agree?

I have heard that for newbies, better to start with slower burn stuff like 231, No. 5 or Power Pistol.

Of my 2 .357 handguns, I have a 6" barrel S&W Model 27-9. The other is a 8" barrel 1980 Colt Trooper MKIII. So many variables (barrel length, bullet weight, caliber, powder), methinks I will start out with light loads for .38 spl and work my way up. Then start light on .357 mag. Would like to get a general purpose powder that I can use for both and that I can find but if need be, I'll settle for getting powder for .38 spl and continue looking for .357 powder.

I have also heard that some bullet/powder/caliber combinations work better than others. I will (hopefully!) have the bullet (158GR SWC) and the primers (.38 spl/.357 mag) soon. What would be recommendations from the folks that have reloaded before for mid/slow burning powder for a newbie?

Bottom line: As a beginner, is it better to start out with a slower-burning powder as this will take more grains to achieve the same "omph". More powder means smaller chance to double-fill and therefore more forgiving to a newbie?

I agree that the higher volume powders with a larger min. - max. load range can be more forgiving for any loaders loading error

Per Hodgdon website 2.8 to 3.1 for 38 Spl, and 3.2 to 4.6 for 357 mag.

http://data.hodgdon.com/cartridge_load.asp

.

But, I'd like to add that when I first started loading, in 1993, it was with a Lyman turret press, Lee hand primer, two loading blocks, 158gr LSWC and Clays powder. It's a soft shooting, accurate, clean powder and very cheap to shoot. Clays is still one of my most favorite powders and I buy it in bulk.

Your question is a good one and I applaude you for entering reloading with great caution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be honest (seen many others too) I havnt seen seen enough data relating to clays powder to make a move like that either...Although I have heard it works awesome in 45ACP..

But way too much confusion between the clays universal/international and etc...

Maybe someone on here could help clear that up for a few of us??

thanks in advance..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plain ol' Clays is the one most used for light pistol loads in several calibers. Universal Clays... now listed as Universal by Hodgdon is similar to Unique in speed and like Unique has a wide load range in many calibers, and would be a pretty good powder to start with. It meters nicely in most powder measures too. International Clays is a shotgun powder for live pidgeon shooting. It has no listed uses for pistol loads and is known to be squirrely by those who have tried.

Like others have said, medium burners are more forgiving and easier to learn with. Just look at the load range for 38spcl with Clays... 2.8-3.1grns... only .3grn! One small error and you can have big problems. Medium powders may have as much as 2 FULL grains of leeway or more to play with so they are much easier and safer to learn with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

However, consider that many older shooters, before IPSC/USPSA, shot NRA Bullseye and loaded, Bullseye, which was probably one, if not the, fastest powders around. And everybody was a "Newbie" at one point in their reloading career.

I use Clays and don't find it any more difficult to load with than any others.

Being careful and paying attention is much more important than picking a powder to use based on it's burning rate.

If you are a new reloader, and know any experienced ones in your area, invite them over and go through proper loading procedures with them, several times if necessary, until you have a firm grasp of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, This slower powder subject keeps coming up. I started with TiteGroup (perhaps foolishly) and have stuck with it for the year I've been reloading without issue. Now having said that I'm loading on a 650 with a powder check and I visual each round before placing a bullet. Yes, the powder check only indicates a squibs or double charges but it's great peace of mind, and I trust my powder drop.

Just my 2 cents

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are shooting 158 grain lead or plated bullets in a .357 Magnum gun, Clays is an excellent powder for light-recoiling, clean burning loads IN .38 SPECIAL OR .38 LONG COLT cases. I use 3.6 in .38 Spl and 3.3 in Long Colt to produce 760 with 158 LRN or plated. This exceeds the maximum for a .38 Spl, but is under the max for a .357. You can load .38 Spl cases to above .38 Spl pressures in a .357 gun.

Light target loads IS ALL CLAYS IS GOOD FOR in the 38/357!

If you are looking for Magnum loads in .357 don't even consider Clays, or other similar fast-burning powders. You need slower burning propellents to reach magnum velocities. Classic favorites are 2400, H110, AA7, AA9, etc.

Clays works fine for plinking if you understand that. It's also economical. There are 7000 grains of powder in a pound. At 3.3-3.6 grains per .38 plinking load, that's 2,000 loads per pound.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

However, consider that many older shooters, before IPSC/USPSA, shot NRA Bullseye and loaded, Bullseye, which was probably one, if not the, fastest powders around. And everybody was a "Newbie" at one point in their reloading career.

I use Clays and don't find it any more difficult to load with than any others.

Being careful and paying attention is much more important than picking a powder to use based on it's burning rate.

If you are a new reloader, and know any experienced ones in your area, invite them over and go through proper loading procedures with them, several times if necessary, until you have a firm grasp of them.

I never said it was difficult...just could be dangerous if you have bad (or in this case, being a new reloader) or no reloading habits. Clays, should be left on the shelf, until you are confident in your reloading skills and habits (good ones, hopefully), and then used cautiously. For a new reloader, there just isn't enough wiggle room with Clays....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand what you all are saying about some powders being more forgiving of mistakes, but the fact is that within reasonable parameters (using ONLY published data until you understand the implications of substituting cast for jacketed (not an even swap) or 165gr projectile in place of a 155gr) and with appropriate safety precautions in place (consistent powder measure and regular checking with a decent scale and a caliper/micrometer to measure OAL) you should be fine. I think that the last thing that any new reloader should plan to do is get lackadaisical because they have some margin of error in their chosen powder. Definitely use the "dangerous" powders if it makes you more conscientious of what you are doing!

The place where you have the greatest chance to make an error in loading with a single-stage press is when you start charging the cases with powder. "Safe" powder or not, a double-charge can spell disaster. I started off loading .45 ACP with Clays and Bullseye, they are cheap and fairly readily available (and dangerous...). Never had an issue. Not a dang thing wrong with starting off with Clays. Just make sure that you have a means to keep track of what you are doing and stay focused on loading while you are loading. When/if you get interrupted during a session, make certain that you create a "reminder" to know where you left off. If you do not recall for absolute certain, start over, even if it means pulling bullets because you caught yourself daydreaming, etc.

Edited by wgj3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All powders were safer many years ago because everyone used a beam scale. Zero it out and it balanced. Now people are using electronic and if you do not calibrate it properly you could be way off and not know it.

A good test is a chunk of lead or 22 bullet with an exact weight in the 5 to 15 grain range. Set it on the scale every so often to make sure it is still working properly. If it is supposed to be 9.5 grains and you now get 8.x or 10.x it is time to stop reloading and figure out what is wrong with the scale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I like Unique fairly well using a Dillon 550B progressive reloader. I like enough powder in the case that I can do a visual check, and see powder. I get a bridge now and again, and No Powder in the case. This never happens when you check every case.

Power Pistol is another good powder. It does have a sharp report however. Both Unique and Power Pistol will drive a Plated Bullet as fast as it needss to go in a 357 Magnum. They also work well in 38 Special.

231, HP38, AA5, SR4756, N350, Blue Dot, HS6 and some others will work in the 38 Special, and also have a little room from Minimum to Maximum loads.

I do load some Clays in my lite pop gun ammo for my airweight J Frame 38, as well as my shotshell snake loads.

Like was siad above, powders with very little wiggle room are safer loaded on a single stage where you either weigh every charge, or atleast throw it in cases in a bullet tray and do a visual check for consistency of loads.

Shotgun powders will work well also such as Red Dot, Green Dot, 700X, 800X, etc. I am getting ready to do some work with Alliant 20/28 in the 38 Special.

Good luck with components.

Bob

Edited by VIPERONE
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too have begun reloading in these tumultuous time, so I can offer this advice: SEARCH - if you see powder or a box of bullets online or on the shelf, pull out your smartphone, search these forums and you'll see what loads shooters here are using it for (if you don't get any results, it may not be what you're looking for); BUY! - if you get the chance to buy components, any components, grab 'em, you can always trade them with shooters in your local club for what you need, in fact, I'd bet you could easily trade that Clays with any number of shooters in your local USPSA club.

Months before I loaded my first round, I started collecting brass, then when I was a post on this forum that Midway USA had primers in stock, I jumped on it and bought 20K; I have since less than half of them for a variety of powders and bullets, it's a beautiful thing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I load Clays in my 45 ACP for revolver and SS. It is excellent in that caliber. I have never loaded it in 38/357 because there are more siutable powders for them. I agree with the post above regarding the use of balance beam scales. I use mine to verify my digital scale every time I use it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...