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Slide Glide / Breakfree CLP / Frog Lube / Mystery Sauce


ZenOhSix

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I am a sucker for this kind of shit. I am truly uneducated when it comes to firearm lubrication. I use an ultra sonic cleaner to dunk my equipment, and then my OCD kicks in and clean, clean and clean. This is great and all, except for the fact that I hate cleaning. Finally, when it comes to lubrication - MOAR has to be better, right? Yeah, I logicially get that isn't the reality but it is difficult to not have the guns dripping or visibly wet.

Each gun usage can be different, hence the various different products and/or purposes out there. For me, I am looking for a solution that will:

- Allow me to shoot my AR15 (.223) Full Auto, AR15 (9mm blow back) Full Auto, .22LR Belt fed upper on an AR15 lower Full Auto, M11/9 Full Auto

- Allow me to shoot my XDm 9mm compact (3.8") reliabily as it is my carry gun

- I tend to shoot 1000 or more rounds per range trip when I go.

Therefore I wanted to ask a few questions, outside of the blind "Which one to use?":

- Is there a need for a different type of lube between Full Auto vs. Semi Auto?

- When I use oils or something like Frog Lube, I have to continue to apply it after ever few magazines or so; else feeding or ejection issues will occur

- I noticed I get a lot of sludge. I assume this is because I have used too much lube?

- Oil seems to work great for the first few magazines worth - then it is all gone. Is grease more consistent?

I have tried Frog Lube and just purchased some CLP. I have used other "gun oils". I was thinking about the Slide Glide stuff Brian had on his site.

Any words of wisdom?

Thanks,

Mike

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I use Frog Lube as a base coat to keep crud from sticking to parts. I warm the metal with a heat gun or blow drier (warm not hot ). Put the Frog Lube on and let it dryand buff it off like car wax. Then I lube with Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.When I take the gun apart to clean it I can wipeoff everything with a paper towel.I don't need any solvent. I never clean the inside of the barrel only the chamber.

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You would seize a full-auto weapon with something like Frog Lube; hence your continued application. For full auto applications, you should use a product like Milcomm TW25B or MC3000. Weaponshield lubes have also been rated for full-auto applications in major weapons systems.

Edited by ZombieHunter
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I use military LSA on everything and use it wet. Works well in all conditions. I bought 24 quarts off ebay several years ago for like $80 total. I have enough for several lifetimes.

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Mobil 1 synthetic where you need oil. Slide glide lite where you need grease.

Synthetic ATF mixed with mineral spirits for cleaning/penetrating oil. Ed's red for really thorough cleaning that can't be handled with simple green.

I use the above on my personal firearms. I use CLP on Uncle Sugars because he pays for it. I see little performance difference.

Edited by practical_man
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Interesting topic. You could spend a lifetime trying all the gun cleaners and lubes out there and still

not try all of them. For general cleaning and lube on a wide variety

of guns, I'm a Ed's Red/Mobil 1 fan. For my match guns, Slide Glide Lite on the sliding parts

and a drop of Gun Butter on the rotating pieces.

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I've had good results with WeaponShield CLP for everything, but I also use Slide Glide in my competition guns where appropriate. I lube my guns pretty liberally.

I used to be a Hoppes #9 (solvent then oil) guy, then used Mlitec-1 on my USP for a while, before settling on WeaponShield for the last few years. I do still get out Hoppes or Montana Xtreme when I have a lot of copper fouling.

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Being this is my first edge it seem`s that just about everyone agrees that oil is the primary lube, and brand is up to the shooters preference.

But what about grease? is everyone using grease as a part of the cleaning and lubing of the edge?

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I run slide glide lite on my pistolas and CLP on everythign else because that is what I was always told to use on everything else. I have tried lots of other lubes for ARs, even the dry stuff but CLP just seems right. I love slide glide but the smell kills me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mobil DTE Light with the addition of STP - stays put, won't burn off and is slicker than mouse snot.

DTE Light is an ISO 32 Cirulating Oil so it has to handle high temps, loads and control wear, the STP seems to keep the lube where you put it, it contains extreme pressure lubricants and a little goes a long way.

You can use the same mix as way lube on the mill and lathe.

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Tetra for BCG and sides and rails, I use it in all my guns. Mobile 1 in trigger and hammer areas.

I went to the Dillon Aero minigun website. They use massive amounts of TW25 to lubricate everything in the breech and BCG areas. They have a video that shows them completly filling the entire BCG areas for all the barrels and then pouring an entire cup of gritty sand in the same are while rotating the the barrel. They then fired it for 20 seconds. Dirty TW25 was dripping out of the bottom. They opened it up and showed all parts intact and operating freely.

Edited by Zoomy
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At the Police Academy firearms cleaning was done with non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray and lubrication was with Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I've used that method for years with all my guns and it is inexpensive and effective. A $5 quart of Mobile 1 will last a lifetime at the rate of 4 drops of oil per Glock.

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  • 2 months later...

For a carry handgun outside air temp will be a factor. When it's below zero you mite need a different lube.

I have shot matches below zero with slide glide light and fp10 mixed.

Summer time slide glide light Alone.

Sti and glocks

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